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The Southwestern Expedition 
of 


Zebulon M. Pike 


Lawn S6. 


Che Lakeside Classics 


The Southwestern 
Expedition of 


Zebulon M. Pike 


EDITED BY 


MILO MILTON QUAIFE 


SECRETARY AND EDITOR OF 
THE BURTON HISTORICAL COLLECTION 


WITH FRONTISPIECE AND MAP 


Che Lakeside Press, Chicage 
R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY 
CHRISTMAS, MCMXXV 


publishers’ yretace 


SERIES of volumes covering, even in a 
desultory fashion, the early history of 
our frontiers could not omit the story 

of Lieutenant Pike’s expedition out into what 
has now become the State of Colorado. 

The purchase of the Louisiana territory in 
1803 from France was a good deal like the 
buying of a pig in a poke, and President 
Jefferson was naturally interested in gaining 
accurate information concerning the charac- 
ter of the new country and establishing 
sovereignty over its Indian tribes. Accord- 
ingly, in 1804, Lewis and Clark were sent to 
explore the head waters of the Missouri and 
find a route to the Pacific. The next year 
Lieutenant Pike, then only twenty-six years 
old, was sent to explore the head waters of 
the Mississippi, which he performed so satis- 
factorily that the following summer he was 
ordered on his famous expedition to discover 
the head waters of the Red and Arkansas 
Rivers, the story of which is contained in that 
part of his journal printed herein. The first 
portion of the journal treating of his Missis- 
sippi trip has been omitted for the reason 
that in the minds of the publishers it contains 
little of historic or human interest. 


Vv 


Publishers’ Preface 


Pike’s expedition to the Rockies blazed the 
trail which afterwards became one of the 
highways for the trains of early emigrants and 
the ‘“‘forty-niners.”’ The Federal Government 
has ever been tardy in rewarding signal service 
on the part of its soldiers, and Pike’s heroic 
followers never received the recognition rec- 
ommended by their commander. Pike’s per- 
sonal recompense consisted only in the naming 
for him the peak which he first reported and 
which has since become one of the great land- 
marks to the travelers in our western domain. 

Pike was no literary genius. He did not 
have the knack of turning his experiences 
into tales of dramatic thrill. Yet his simple 
telling of the pluck, perseverance, and suffering 
endured by his party day after day makes one 
feel that one is adventuring with a man of 
courage, resource, and leadership. 

The publishers feel that it is a book well 
worth the reading of any American, and with 
the hope that it will furnish a few interesting 
hours to their friends and patrons they send 
forth this little volume with the Season’s 


greetings. 
THE PUBLISHERS. 
Christmas, 1925. 


vi 


Contents 


HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION . 
Part I 

Part II 

INDEX 


Vil 


ee Phage Ayn 


Historical Introduction 


Historical Futroduction 


western exploration conducted in the 

years 1806-1807 is one of the great 
chronicles of American pioneering achievement. 
In order to appreciate it properly the reader 
must make some endeavor to orient himself in 
the situation of the United States at the time 
the enterprise was undertaken. 

The continent of North America was chiefly 
colonized by three European nations, England, 
France, and Spain, between which, for genera- 
tions, a spirit of intense rivalry existed. By a 
series of wars ending in 1763 England prac- 
tically expelled France from the continent, 
whose future destiny rested thenceforth with 
England and Spain. There followed, within the 
space of a dozen years, the war of the Ameri- 
can Revolution, which signalized the birth of 
the United States as an independent power, 
with a domain extending from Spanish Florida 
to Canada and from the Atlantic Ocean west- 
ward to the Mississippi. To the south and west 
of the American domain lay the possessions of 
Spain. Although the royal power of Spain was 
fast declining, the progress of this decline was 
not so evident to the observer of a century and 
a quarter ago as it is now to the eye of the 


xl 


Ties PIKE’S marative of his south- 


Historical FJntroduction 


historian; and to the new American nation 
the power of the decaying empire still seemed 
formidable enough. 

On a superficial view it might be supposed 
that there was ample room in the North Ameri- 
can continent for the few million Americans 
and the few hundred thousand Spaniards to 
dwell in peace and harmony; but the govern- 
ment of Spain was an Old-World tyranny, at 
least in American eyes, and between the ideals 
of her governing class and those entertained by 
the citizens of the new-born democracy of the 
western World lay a wide gulf. Americans 
chafed at the Spanish control of the mouth of 
the Mississippi, and there were other grounds 
for grievance and friction between the two 
countries. 

Such, briefly sketched, was the situation 
when in 1800 Spain secretly ceded Spanish 
Louisiana to France. This included the west- 
ern half of the vast territory of French Louisi- 
ana, whose foundation had been laid by La 
Salle and his successors in the last quarter of 
the seventeenth century. But France’s ren- 
aissance as a continental American power 
proved of but short duration. In 1803 Na- 
poleon, faced with the prospect of losing 
Louisiana to England, made a virtue of neces- 
sity and sold it to the United States. 

The acquisition was easily the greatest 
achievement of Thomas Jefferson’s presiden- 
tial career. That ruler was a man of pro- 


Xli 


Historical Jutroduction 


nounced scientific taste. Louisiana was almost 
wholly a virgin wilderness, whose boundaries 
and geography were alike unknown to the 
American government and people. Soon after 
the purchase, therefore, Jefferson promoted 
the Lewis and Clark exploring expedition, 
which in the years 1804-1806 traversed the 
continent from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean 
and accumulated a great fund of scientific and 
geographic information concerning the region 
traversed by the explorers. 

The explorations of Pike, though not directly 
inspired or fostered by President Jefferson, 
were none the less government enterprises, 
carried out by members of the United States 
army with the full knowledge and sanction of 
the Secretary of War. Their immediate pro- 
moter was General James Wilkinson, com- 
mander of the United States army, the strange- 
ness of whose public career is without a parallel 
in American annals. Wilkinson was a man of 
undoubted ability, but sadly lacking in charac- 
ter. Born to intrigue as the sparks fly upward, 
a century or more of study has not sufficed to 
enable historians to unravel all of his devious 
designs. That he was secretly in the pay of the 
Spanish government, and dangled before the 
authorities the hope of bringing about a se- 
cession of the western states from the Union 
seems evident. That he was implicated in the 
designs of Aaron Burr seems certain, but pre- 
cisely how, or to what extent no one yet knows. 


xiii 


Historical Futroduction 


However these things may be, in the summer 
of 1805 Wilkinson dispatched Pike with a 
small party of soldiers from St. Louis on a keel- 
boat voyage up the Mississippi River to ex- 
plore the sources of that stream and assert the 
authority of the Government over those who 
resided on its upper waters. This mission, 
which consumed about nine months’ time, was 
executed by Pike with signal success, and to the 
narration of it he devotes the first part of the 
volume of travels he subsequently published. 

Back at St. Louis in the summer of 1806, 
Pike promptly began preparing for his second 
and far more arduous undertaking, which forms 
the subject matter of the present volume. The 
instructions given him by General Wilkinson 
under date of June 24, 1806, specified several ob- 
jectives. In general, the enterprise was to be one 
of exploration, and of conciliation of the Indian 
tribes in the newly-acquired territory of the 
United States extending southwestward toward 
Santa Fe and the Spanish borders. In particu- 
lar, Pike was to conduct certain Osage captives 
in safety to their homes in western Missouri, 
establish peace between the Osage and the 
Pawnee of Kansas, and open friendly relations 
with the more remote tribes of Comanche and 
others residing farther to the Southwest; he was 
tomake careful geographical observations upon 
theregionstraversed,and,insofaras might prove 
practicable, “ascertain the direction, extent, and 
navigation” of the Arkansas and Red rivers. 


XIV 


Historical Futroduction 


We may now advert briefly to the debatable 
aspect of Pike’s enterprise—namely, what was 
Wilkinson’s real purpose in promoting it? Was 
he acting in conjunction with the supposed de- 
signs of Burr against Mexico, or were his mo- 
tives and reasons such as the commander of the 
United States army might properly entertain? 
If the former, was Pike himself cognizant of 
Wilkinson’s design and a conscious agent of it? 

Answering the last question first, Pike him- 
self, at a subsequent date, in answer to ques- 
tions put to him, plainly and emphatically 
denied that he had received any instructions 
from Wilkinson, either verbal or written, as- 
sociating his enterprise in any way with the 
activities of Burr. Having in view Pike’s char- 
acter and integrity, this seems to me conclu- 
sive. It does not, of course, answer the question 
whether Wilkinson himself was entertaining 
projects whose real character he did not see fit 
to disclose to his young subordinate. 

Nor can this question be conclusively an- 
swered. That Wilkinson had a propensity for 
intrigue, and that he was long secretly on the 
payroll of the Spanish government is known. 
There is no particular reason, however, for 
supposing that he was less ready to deceive his 
Spanish paymasters than to betray the in- 
terests of his own government, and a man 
possessed of his shrewdness was quite likely to 
have at all times at least two strings to his bow. 
Whatever his future course of action might be, 


XV 


Historical Jutroduction 


the information which Pike was to procure 
might be expected to prove useful to him, and 
it is entirely possible to reconcile all that we 
know of the enterprise with the assumption 
that Wilkinson’s design in sending it out was 
wholly proper to one who was commander of 
the United States army and governor of 
Louisiana Territory. 

The force of this reasoning becomes ap- 
parent when we observe that Pike was sent | 
on two expeditions in quick succession, the one 
up the Mississippi, the other into the South- 
west. No one has ever suggested that the 
former had any connection with the Burr con- 
spiracy, or any secret design against the in- 
tegrity of the British dominions. There were 
legitimate reasons for sending Pike into the 
Southwest no less than for sending him up the 
Mississippi, and since dishonest men frequently 
speak the truth, it is quite conceivable that 
Wilkinson may have done so when he affirmed 
that his sending Pike upon the southwestern 
expedition had no connection with the designs 
or activities of Aaron Burr. 

One object, however, Wilkinson may prop- 
erly have had in view which he could not 
publicly avow. Between the United States and 
Spain there existed such a conflict of interest 
and of ideals that it was reasonable to antici- 
pate an armed conflict would sooner or later 
eventuate. The military arms of all civilized 
governments habitually assemble all the infor- 


XV1- 


Historical Futroduction 


mation possible concerning countries against 
which their own may some day be arrayed in 
arms. To the writer it seems probable that 
Wilkinson desired that Pike should enter the 
Spanish territory and that the latter set out on 
his mission with the full intention of doing so. 
Had he contented himself, on his return, with 
making a confidential report to his chief this 
might have been frankly avowed; but it is 
obvious that it could not be set forth in the 
book which Pike proceeded, with all possible 
promptness, to publish, without giving affront 
to a power with which the United States was 
then at peace. Herein, we are inclined to think, 
lies the explanation of a matter which has 
greatly disturbed the minds of certain of Pike’s 
commentators. If our thought is correct, Pike 
was not at heart displeased over his enforced 
detention by the Spanish authorities nor over 
the long detour through the Spanish king’s 
dominions which they compelled him to take. 
On the contrary, in all this he was probably 
but realizing one of the objects held in view 
when he embarked upon the expedition. The 
forcible detention of his papers, on the other 
hand, was undoubtedly a source of real and 
grievous disappointment to Pike. 

Leaving individual intrigue and governmen- 
tal interest aside, the southwestern expedition 
of Lieutenant Pike was an exploit which his 
countrymen can well afford to remember with 
admiration. No one who reads the narrative 


xvii 


Historical Futroduction 


can fail to perceive the dauntless spirit which 
animated the fiery young leader, nor the 
loyalty and devotion which inspired his band 
of devoted followers. Few in number and 
with the scantiest of material equipment, they 
braved alike the treachery of the savages, the 
perils of starvation, the awful exposure of the 
Colorado Rockies in midwinter, and the pros- 
pect of perpetual confinement in a foreign land. 
They wrote a new chapter in the annals of 
human daring and devotion, and by their enter- 
prise added a volume of abiding worth to the 
literature of New World exploration. For all 
but the leader the only prospect of reward was 
a modest monetary payment at the hands of 
their government, a prospect which we regret to 
record was never realized. 

The career of Zebulon Pike was of compara- 
tively brief duration, yet he succeeded in writ- 
ing his name high in the annals of American 
achievement. He was born at Lamberton, New 
Jersey, on January 5,1779. Hisfather had been 
a captain in the Revolution and he subse- 
quently entered the new United States army, 
in which he served from 1791 until the close of 
the War of 1812. The son’s military career 
began while he was still a mere boy. In March, 
1799, he became an ensign in the Second In- 
fantry, and in April, 1800, he was promoted to 
the rank of first lieutenant.! This rank he still 


1 There is some uncertainty concerning the precise 
date of Pike’s promotion, but this isof no material con- 
sequence to our story. 

XViii 


Wistorical Jutroduction 


held when in the spring of 1805 he was selected 
by General Wilkinson to conduct the explora- 
tion of the Mississippi to its source. Pike was 
then but twenty-six years old, and but twenty- 
seven when in the summer of 1806 he began 
his southwestern expedition. His return and 
the publication of his book aroused widespread 
interest, but there seems to have been no im- 
pulse to reward him with promotion, such as 
today would be certain to find expression. 
While absent on the expedition the process of 
routine procured his promotion to the rank of 
captain. In the spring of 1808, some months 
after his return, he became a major, and on the 
last day of the year 1809 a lieutenant colonel. 

Opportunities for promotion come slowly to 
officers in the regular army in time of peace, 
rapidly in time of war. When the War of 1812 
dawned upon the country it found our military 
establishment, as usual, in a woeful state of un- 
readiness. The army contained, however, at 
least a few promising young officers, and promi- 
nent among them was Zebulon Pike. In July, 
1812, he was given the commission of colonel 
in the Fifteenth Infantry, and when General 
Dearborn undertook the reduction of certain 
British forts along the Ontario-Niagara fron- 
tier the long-awaited opportunity to distinguish 
himself was presented. The first of these to be 
attacked was York (modern Toronto) and the 
command of the assaulting troops was in- 
trusted to General Pike (he had been appointed 


xix 


Historical fntroduction 


brigadier general on March 12, 1813, but the 
appointment yet remained to be confirmed). 
Here is not the place to tell the story of the 
battle. Suffice it to say that the British force, 
defeated and forced to flee, on retiring blew up 
the magazine, and by this act Pike and many 
of his followers were killed. He died, like Wolfe, 
in the moment of victory, his head pillowed on 
the British flag which he had purchased with 
his life. 

In 1801 Pike married Clarissa Brown of 
Kentucky, who long survived him. Several 
children were born of this union, only one of 
whom, a daughter, grew to maturity. She mar- 
ried Symmes Harrison, son of General (later 
President) William Henry Harrison, and left a 
number of descendants. 

The historical editor approaches the task of 
reprinting Pike’s narrative with mixed emo- 
tions. The author possessed but a limited 
education, and his ideas of the art of book- 
making were strange and unusual enough. Nor 
does he appear to have received much counsel 
from his publisher, who, measured by present- 
day standards, was sadly derelict in his edito- 
rial duty. The original edition, with numerous 
appendixes and documents, was published at 
Philadelphia in 1810. An English edition was 
published at London in 1811 from “an author- 
ized copy of the manuscript” which had been 
transmitted from America to the editor. This 
was carefully and competently edited, and is 


AX 


Historical Fntroduction 


a far more creditable production than is the 
American edition. Within a few years Pike’s 
work was republished in France, Holland, and 
Germany, the translations being made, appar- 
ently, from the London, 1811, edition. 

In the United States Pike’s narrative has been 
twice reprinted in its entirety, first at Denver 
in 1889 and second at New York in 1895. 
The Denver edition is a reprint of the London 
one, accompanied by an introduction prepared 
by Willaim M. McGuire. The New York edi- 
tion, elaborately edited by Elliott Coues, is 
the most useful to students. Coues was pos- 
sessed of an extensive range of geographic 
information and in preparing the present 
volume I have utilized as fully as practicable 
the results of his research. So thoroughly 
has he done his work that,as long as copies of 
it are available it may well be doubted whether 
anyone will ever think it desirable to undertake 
to print and edit anew Pike’s narrative. 

The present edition, itis perhaps unnecessary 
to say, makes no pretension to independent 
scholarly research, and the volume is not 
offered as a contribution to scholarship. Rather 
the effort has been made to present, in as at- 
tractive form as possible to the constituency 
for which the Lakeside Classics series is pub- 
lished, Pike’s journal of his southwestern 
journey. It may be hoped that some who read 
the narrative here presented may be tempted 
to pursue the subject farther; those who desire 


XXi 


Historical Jntroduction 


to do so will naturally turn to the editions 
we have noted and, in addition, to the more 
authoritative recent writers in the field of 
American history. 

The text of the present volume has been 
taken directly from the first American edition 
of Pike’s narrative, but it is not a slavish or 
absolutely literal copy. Rarely has a book been 
published so abounding in errors, both of com- 
mission and of omission, as Pike’s volume. I 
have endeavored to reproduce with all due 
faithfulness the apparent meaning of the 
author. At times, however, this meaning is a 
matter of doubt, and frequently the statement 
of it is marred by faulty composition or an 
archaic system of punctuation, or both. These 
faults I have endeavored to correct in so far as 
this might be prudently undertaken; commonly 
I have indicated by the use of brackets words 
or phrases supplied by me but it has not been 
practicable to do so in every instance. The 
precise investigator will have no occasion to 
make use of the present reprint; others may 
read it in the confidence that they have before 
them substantially the identical text of Pike’s 
narrative as first printed in 1810, but with 
certain corrections and changes introduced by 
the present editor with the design of rendering 
the work less difficult of perusal and compre- 
hension than in the original edition. 


Mito M. QUAIFE. 
Detroit Public Library. 


XXil 


AN ACCOUNT OF EXPEDITIONS 


TO THE 


SHources of the Mississippi, 


AND THROUGH THE 
WESTERN PARTS OF LOUISIANA, 


TO THE SOURCES OF THE 


ARKANSAW, KANS, LA PLATTE, AND PIERRE 
JAUN, RIVERS; 

PERFORMED BY ORDER OF THE 
GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES 
DURING THE YEARS 1805, 1806, anp 1807. 

AND A TOUR THROUGH 
THE 
INTERIOR PARTS OF NEW SPAIN, 
WHEN CONDUCTED THROUGH THESE PROVINCES, 

BY ORDER OF 


THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL, 


IN THE YEAR 1807. 
By Masor Z. M. PIKE. 


ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED BY C. & A, CONRAD, & Co. No. 30, CHESNUT STREET, SOMER- 


VELL & CONRAD, PETERSBURGH. BONSAL, CONRAD, & Co. NORFOLK, 
AND FIELDING LUCAS, Jr. BALTIMORE. 


John Binns, Printer,.-..1810, 


Pa 


Part I 


To the Sources of 
the Arkansas 


to ice Tirke Pye. 


REPERENCES. 
ae Route of the Bxploring Party. 
ans Route prorsrued by the Spaniards. 
Bxaursions made hy tp! Phe. 
seveeAmerican Camps. 
06 6 Spanish Gunps. 
{Il Lénrite of actual Surveys. 
£ Lit the mouth of the Ginadian. on the Arkansaw River, 
the Ensigns armorial of France were buried ina 
leaden Box at the toot of a great Oak in 1742. 
The Red Biverto NM was surveyed hy T Freeman Esy? 
The Nishita te B hy W Dunbar Esq? 
The drkansaw frum C to its Mouth by L£ Wilkinson. 
Tiw Wate River to D by Gap! Many . 


giatine 
5 Grand Mr Fabrva wint? iv . 
. Saline $ Cee Wai; 7 i } orriae ee lortap 
af: a a 
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OR 


Sed are all OF 
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ZEBULON M. PIKE 
ri ast A 2 4 plond 
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Reproduced from the 
Rela eo Biadulil Philadelphia 1810 Edition of 
Diana oo 3 sae. ane Pike’s Journal « 
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Published by Longman & 


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“ Jan "8a. 


Che Southwestern Expedition 
of Zebulon SH. Bike 


15th July, 1806, Tuesday: We sailed from 
the landing at Belle Fontaine! about three 
o’clock P.M. in two boats. Our party consisted 
of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, 
two corporals, sixteen privates, and one inter- 
preter. We had also under our charge, chiefs 
of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number 
of women and children, had been to Washing- 
ton. These Indians had been redeemed from 
captivity among the Potowatomies, and were 
now to be returned to their friends at the Osage 
towns. The whole number of Indians amounted 
to fifty-one. 

We ascended the river about six miles and 
encamped on the south side behind an island. 
This day my boat swung round twice; once 
when we had a tow rope on shore, which it 


1Fort Belle Fontaine, the first United States military 
post within the limits of the Louisiana Purchase, was 
established by order of General James Wilkinson in 1805 
at a point on the bank of the river about fourteen miles 
above St. Louis. Prior to this the spot had been the site 
of a Spanish military post over a third of a century 
earlier. In 1825 the garrison was removed from Fort 
Belle Fontaine to the site of present Jefferson Barracks, 
which has ever since remained the chief military center 
of the upper Mississippi Valley. 


3 


= 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


snapped off in an instant. The Indians did not 
encamp with us at night. Distance six miles. 

16th July, Wednesday: We rejoined our red 
brethren at breakfast, after which we again 
separated and with very severe labor arrived 
late in the evening opposite to the village of St. 
Charles,' where the Indians joined us. Distance 
fifteen miles. 

17th July, Thursday: We crossed the river 
to learn if any communications had arrived 
from St. Louis, and if there was any news of 
other Indian enemies of the Osages. Called at 
Mr. James Morrison’s? and was introduced to a 
Mr. Henry of New Jersey, about eight and 
twenty years of age. He spoke a little Spanish 
and French tolerably well. He wished to go 
with me as a volunteer. From this place I 
wrote letters back to Belle Fontaine, whilst 
the Indians were crossing the river. A man by 
the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians 
that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and Reynards, were at 
the mouth of Big Manitou. This gave them 
considerable uneasiness and it took me some 


1The district of St. Charles embraced all of Spanish 
Louisiana north of the Missouri River. The village of 
St. Charles was the earliest and most important settle- 
ment in this district. Its founder was Louis Blanchette, 
a native of Quebec. The date of his location here is un- 
known. In 1797 the village had about eighty houses and 
450 inhabitants. See Louis Houck, History of Missouri 
(Chicago, 1908), II, 79 ff. 


2James Morrison, one of the early American settlers 
at St. Charles, was a son-in-law of Louis Blanchette. 


4 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


time to do away the impression it made upon 
them; for I by no means believed it. We were 
about sailing when my interpreter was arrested 
by the sheriff, at the suit of Manuel de Liza,! 
for a debt between three and four hundred 
dollars, and was obliged to return to St. Louis. 
This made it necessary for me to write another 
letter to the General. We encamped about 
three-fourths of a mile above the village. 

18th July, Friday: Lieutenant Wilkinson? 
and Dr. Robinson® went with the Indians 
across the country to the village La Charette.* 


1 Manual Lisa or De Lisa was born in New Orleans in 
1771 and came to Upper Louisiana about the year 1790. 
He was a man of unusual enterprise and shrewdness, 
and is characterized by Houck (op. cit., II, 254) as “‘the 
most remarkable man among the pioneer merchants of 
St. Louis.” Lisa engaged in the fur trade and was long a 
dominant factor of the Missouri River region. He died 
at St. Louis Aug. 12, 1820. 

2Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson was the son of 
General James Wilkinson, who sent Pike upon the expe- 
dition here recorded. 

3 John Hamilton Robinson was born in Augusta 
County, Virginia, Jan. 24, 1782. He studied medicine, 
came to St. Louis in 1804, and married a sister-in-law 
of Dr. Antoine Saugrain, a prominent physician of the 
period in Upper Louisiana. On his return from the Pike 
expedition, Robinson became a surgeon in the United 
States army. In 1815 he went to Mexico, where for four 
years he fought in the war for Mexican independence, 
attaining the rank of brigadier general. About the year 
1819 he settled at Natchez, where he died a year or two 
later. See Houck, op. cit., II, 80-81. 

4La Charette, or Charette, was about fifty miles up 
river from St. Charles, in modern Warren County. A 


> 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


Mr. George Henry engaged, under oath, to 
accompany me on my tour. Wrote to the 
General, and enclosed him one of Henry’s 
engagements. After we had made our little 
arrangements we marched by land. Joined the 
boats, which had sailed early, at twelve o’clock. 
Two of the men being sick, I steered one boat 
and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we 
were enabled to keep employed our full com- 
plement of oars, although we put the sick men 
on shore. Encamped on the north side. About 
eleven o’clock at night a tremendous thunder 
storm arose, and it continued to blow and rain, 
with thunder and lightning, until day. Dis- 
tance fifteen miles. 

roth July, Saturday: In consequence of the 
rain, we did not put off until past nine o’clock. 
My sick men marched. I had some reason to 
suspect that one of them intended never joining 
us again. At dinner time the sick man of my 
own boat came on board. I then went on board 
the other and we continued to run races all day, 
and although this boat had hitherto kept be- 
hind, yet I arrived at the encamping ground 
with her nearly half an hour before the other. 
The current not generally so strong as below. 
Distance fourteen miles. 


fort was located here in the Spanish period, and a small 
French settlement developed, then the farthest western 
outpost on the Missouri. Both village and name have 
long since disappeared; for them have been substituted 
the near-by village of Marthasville. Charette is chiefly 
interesting as the residence, for a time, of Daniel Boone. 


6 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


20th July, Sunday: Embarked about sunrise. 
Wishing to ascertain the temperature of the 
water, I discovered my large thermometer to 
be missing, which probably had fallen into the 
river. Passed one settlement on the north side, 
and, after turning the point to the south, saw 
two more houses on the south side. We en- 
camped in a long reach, which bore north and 
west. The absentees had not yet joined us. 
Distance fifteen miles. 

21st July, Monday: It commenced raining 
near day, and continued until four o’clock in 
the afternoon: the rain was immensely heavy, 
with thunder and lightning remarkably severe. 
This obliged me to lay by, for, if we proceeded 
with our boats it necessarily exposed our bag- 
gage much more than when at rest, for the 
tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail at 
a quarter past four o’clock and arrived at the 
village La Charette a little after the dusk of the 
evening. Here we found Lieutenant Wilkinson 
and Dr. Robinson with the Indians: also 
Baroney,! our interpreter, with letters from the 
General and our friends. The weather still 
continued cloudy, with rain. We were received 


1A. F. Vasquez dit Baronet was born at St. Louis in 
1783. Probably by way of recognition of his service to 
Pike, he was appointed an ensign in the Second Infantry 
by President Jefferson, Dec. 12, 1808. He resigned 
Oct. 1, 1814, with the rank of first lieutenant. In 1823 
he was serving as interpreter and sub-Indian agent 
under Governor William Clark. See Houck, op. cit., 
III, r10. 


7 


Zebulon fi, Pike 


into the house of a Mr. Chartron! and every 
accommodation in his power offered us. Dis- 
tance six miles. 

22d July, Tuesday: We arranged our boats, 
dried our loading, and wrote letters for Belle 
Fontaine. 

23d July, Wednesday: I dispatched an ex- 
press to the General, with advertisements rela- 
tive to Kennerman,’? the soldier who had de- 
serted. We embarked after breakfast and 
made good progress. Lieutenant Wilkinson 
steered one boat and I the other, in order to 
detach all the men on shore with the Indians 
that we could spare. We crossed to the south 
side a little below Shepherd River. Dr. Robin- 
son killed a deer, which was the first killed by 
the party. Distance thirteen miles. 

24th July, Thursday: We embarked at half 
past six o’clock. Very foggy. The Indians 
accompanied by only three of my people. 
Lieutenant Wilkinson being a little indisposed, 
I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat. We 
made an excellent day’s journey, and encamped 
five miles from the Gasconade River. Killed 
three deer, one bear, and three turkeys. But 
three or four of the Indians arrived; the others 


1Probably Joseph Chartran (Chartrand), who was 
syndic at La Charette during the Spanish period. 

Sergeant Henry Kinnerman. He had been with 
Pike on his previous expedition up the Mississippi, and 
is described by the commander as “‘one of the stoutest 
men I ever knew.” 


8 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


encamped a small distance below. Distance 
eighteen miles. 

25th July, Friday: We embarked at half past 
six o’clock and arrived at the entrance of the 
Gasconade River [at] half past eight o’clock, 
at which place I determined to remain the day, 
as my Indians and foot people were yet in the 
rear, and they had complained to me of being 
without shoes, leggings, etc. One of our Paw- 
nees did not arrive until late. The other had 
communicated his suspicions to me that the 
Oto, who was in company, had killed him. He 
acknowledged that he proposed to him to take 
out their baggage, and return to St. Louis. 
The real occasion of his absence, however, was 
his having followed a large fresh trace up the 
Gasconade a considerable distance, but finding 
it led from the Missouri, he examined it and 
discovered horses to have been on it. He then 
left it, joined our’s, and came in. This being gen- 
erally the route taken by the Potowatomies 
when they go to war against the Osage, it 
occasioned some alarm. Every morning we 
were awoke by the mourning of the savages, 
who commenced crying about daylight and 
continued for the space of an hour.! I made 
inquiry of my interpreter with respect to this, 
who informed me that this was a custom not 
only with those who had recently lost their 


1 This custom was practiced also by Indians of other 
tribes. An instance of its occurrence among the Winne- 
bago is described by Mrs. Juliette Kinzie in Wau Bun 
(Chicago, 1908), 62-63. 


9 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


relatives, but also with others who recalled to 
mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, 
and joined the other mourners purely from 
sympathy. They appeared extremely affected, 
tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed 
bitterly; but in a moment they dry their 
cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs of 
grief generally run thus: “‘My dear father 
exists no longer. Have pity on me, O Great 
Spirit! You see, I cry forever; dry my tears 
and give me comfort.” ‘The warriors’ songs 
are thus: ‘‘Our enemies have slain my father 
(or mother); he is lost to me and his family; I 
pray to you, O Master of Life, to preserve me 
until I revenge his death, and then do with me 
as thou pleaseth.”’ Distance five miles. 

26th July, Saturday: We commenced at five 
o’clock to ferry the Indians over the Gascon- 
ade, and left the entrance of this river at half past 
six o’clock in the afternoon. Met five French- 
men, who informed us that they had just left 
the Osage River and that it was so low they 
could not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote 
letters and sent them back by them. Dr. Rob- 
inson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians 
encamped about one league above us. Killed 
one bear, two deer, one otter, three turkeys, 
and one raccoon. Distance fifteen miles. 

27th July, Sunday: We embarked at half 
past five o’clock, and arrived at the Indians’ 
camp at seven o’clock. They had been alarmed 
the day before, and in the evening sent men 


Io 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


back in the trace, and some of the chiefs sat up 
all night. Breakfasted with them. About half 
past three o’clock encamped in sight of the 
Osage River. There being every appearance of 
rain, we halted thus early in order to give the 
Indians time to prepare temporary camps and 
to secure our baggage. I went out to hunt, and 
firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who 
were in the woods, they knew the difference of 
the report of my rifle from their guns, were 
alarmed, and immediately retired to camp. 
Distance thirteen miles. 

25th July, Monday: Embarked at half past 
five o’clock, and at half past ten arrived in the 
Osage River, where we stopped, discharged our 
guns, bathed, etc. We then proceeded on about 
six miles, where we waited for and crossed the 
Indians to the west shore, and then proceeded 
on to the first island and encamped on the 
west side. Sans Oreille, and four or five young 
men only, came up, the rest encamping some 
distance behind. Killed one deer and one 
turkey. Distance nineteen miles. 

29th July, Tuesday: All the Indians arrived 
very early and the Big Soldier, whom I had 
appointed the officer to regulate the march, was 
much displeased that Sans Oreille and the 
others had left him, and said for that reason he 
would not suffer any woman to go in the boat, 
and by that means separate the party; but in 
truth it was from jealousy of the men whose 
women went in the boats. He began by flogging 


If 


Zebulon HN. Pike 


one of the young men and was about to strike 
Sans Oreille’s wife, but was stopped by him and 
told that he knew he had done wrong, but that 
the women were innocent. We then crossed 
them and embarked at half past eight o’clock. 
About twelve o’clock we found the Indians 
tafting the river, when the first chief of the 
Little Osage, called Tutasuggy, or the Wind, 
told me that the man whom the Big Soldier 
struck had not yet arrived with his wife, “but 
that he would throw them away.” As I knew 
he was extremely mortified at the dissensions 
which appeared to reign amongst them, I told 
him by no means, that one of my boats should 
wait for the woman and her child, but that the 
man might go to the devil, as a punishment for 
his insubordination. 

I then left Baroney with one boat, and pro- 
ceeded with the other. We were called ashore by 
three young Indians, who had killed some deer, 
and, on putting them on board, gave them about 
one or two gills of whiskey, which intoxicated 
all of them. It commenced raining about one 
o’clock, and continued incessantly for three 
hours, which obliged us to stop and encamp. 
One of our men (Miller) lost himself, and did 
not arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one 
turkey, and one raccoon. Distance fourteen 
miles. 

30th July, Wednesday: After the fog dis- 
persed I left Lieutenant Wilkinson with the 
party to dry the baggage, and I went with Dr. 


12 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


Robinson and Bradley. About two o’clock 
we returned, set sail, and having passed the 
first rapid about three miles, encamped on the 
eastern shore. Killed three deer. Distance five 
miles. 

31st July, Thursday: We embarked early 
and passed several rapids pretty well. Dined 
with the Indians. Two of them left us in the 
morning for the village, and they all had an 
idea of doing the same, but finally concluded 
otherwise. One of the Osage, who had left the 
party for the village, returned and reported 
that he had seen and heard strange Indians in 
the woods. This we considered as merely a 
pretext to come back. I this day lost my dog, 
and the misfortune was the greater as we had 
no other dog who would bring anything out of 
the water. This was the dog Fisher presented 
to me at Prairie du Chien.! Killed three deer 
and one turkey. Distance eighteen miles. 


1Qn the occasion of Pike’s expedition to the upper 
Mississippi. Henry M. Fisher was at this time an in- 
fluential resident of Prairie du Chien. He was educated 
at Montreal, where he became interested in the fur 
trade and came west about the year 1790. After a 
period in the employ of the North West Company he 
became an independent trader with his home at Prairie 
du Chien. On the organization of Indiana Territory he 
was appointed captain of militia by Governor Harrison, 
and soon after (1803) justice of the peace. Pike testifies 
to Fisher’s partiality to the United States. On the out- 
break of the War of 1812, to avoid serving against this 
country he retired to the Red River region and did not 
return to Prairie du Chien until a decade had passed. 
He died there in 1827. 


13 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


1st August, Friday: It having rained all 
night, the river appeared to have risen about 
six inches. We spread out our baggage to dry, 
but it continuing to rain, by intervals, all day, 
the things were wetter at sundown than in the 
morning. We rolled them up and left them on 
the beach. We sent out two hunters in the 
morning, one of whom killed three deer; all 
the Indians killed three more. Total, six. 

2d August, Saturday: The weather cleared 
up. The loading being spread out to dry, Dr. 
Robinson, myself, Bradley, Sparks, and Brown 
went out to hunt. We killed four deer; the 
Indians two. Having reloaded the boats, we 
embarked at five o’clock, and came about two 
miles. The river rose in the last twenty-four 
hours four inches. 

3d August, Sunday: Embarked early and 
wishing to save the fresh,! I pushed hard all 
day. Sparks was lost, and did not arrive until 
night. We encamped about twenty-five paces 
from the river on a sandbar. Near day I heard 
the sentry observe that the boats had better be 
brought in, when I got up and found the water 
within a rod of our tent, and before we could 
get all of our things out it had reached the tent. 
Killed nine deer, one wild cat, one goose, and 
one turkey. Distance eighteen miles. 

4th August, Monday: We embarked early 
and continued on for some time, not being able 


‘1 That is, take advantage of the fresh, or state of high 
water in the river. 


14 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


to find a suitable place to dry our things, but at 
length stopped on the east shore. Here we had 
to ferry the Indians over a small channel which 
we did not before observe; all of them, how- 
ever, not arriving, we put off and continued our 
route. Finding our progress much impeded by 
our mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of 
its iron, and after Lieutenant Wilkinson had 
carved our names on it, set it adrift, followed 
by the yards. This mast had been cut and made 
at Pine Creek, Upper Mississippi. After pro- 
ceeding some miles we found the Indians on the 
west shore, they having rafted the river. We 
stopped for them to cook, after which we pro- 
ceeded on. The navigation had become very 
difficult from the rapidity of the current, oc- 
casioned by the rise of the water, which rose 
one foot in an hour. Killed two deer. Distance 
ten miles. Rainy. 

5th August, Tuesday: We lay by this day 
in order to give the Indians an opportunity to 
dry their baggage. Dr. Robinson and myself, 
accompanied by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; 
we lost the latter about two miles from camp. 
After hunting some time on the west shore we 
concluded to raft the river, which we effected 
with difficulty and danger, and hunted for 
some time, but without success. We then re- 
turned to the party and found [that] Mr. 
Henry, who had been lost, had arrived one 
hour before us: he had met one of the soldiers, 
who brought him in. 


15 


~ 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


Today in our tour I passed over a remark- 
ably large rattlesnake as he lay curled up, and 
trod so near him as to touch him with my foot, 
he drawing himself up tomake room for my heel. 
Dr. Robinson, who followed me, was on the 
point of treading on him, but by a spring 
avoided it. I then turned around and touched 
him with my ram-rod, but he showed no dis- 
position to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. 
The gratitude which I felt towards him for not 
having bit me induced me to save his life. 
Killed four deer. River rises thirteen inches. 
Rain continues. 

6th August, Wednesday: We embarked at 
half past eight o’clock, it having cleared off and 
had the appearance of a fine day. Passed 
Gravel River on the west. About three miles 
above this river the Indians left us and in- 
formed me [that] by keeping a little to the south 
and west they would make in fifteen miles 
what would be at least thirty-five miles for us. 
Dr. Robinson, Mr. Henry, and Sergeant Bal- 
lenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. 
Distance thirteen miles. 

7th August, Thursday: Not being detained 
by the Indians, we are for once enabled to em- 
bark at a quarter past five o’clock. The river 
having fallen since yesterday morning about 
four feet, we wish to improve every moment of 
time previous to its entire fall. We proceeded 
extremely well, passed the Saline River on the 
east, and encamped opposite La Belle Roche on 


16 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


the west shore. This day we passed many 
beautiful cliffs on both sides of the river. Saw 
a bear and [a] wolf swimming the river. I em- 
ployed myself part of the day in translating 
into French a talk of General Wilkinson to the 
Cheveux Blanche. Distance twenty-one miles. 

8th August, Friday: We embarked [at] 20 
minutes past five o’clock. Found the river had 
fallen about two feet during the night. At the 
confluence of the Youngar! with the Osage 
River we breakfasted. Encamped at night ona 
bar. Distance twenty-one miles. 

gth August, Saturday: We embarked at five 
o’clock, and at half past six o’clock met the 
Indians and our gentlemen. They had met 
with nothing extraordinary. They had killed 
in their excursion seven deer and three bear. 
We proceeded to an old wintering ground, 
where there were eight houses, which were 
occupied last winter by , who had not 
been able to proceed any higher for want of 
water. Passed the Old Man’s Rapids, below 
which on the west shore are some beautiful 
cliffs. Dined with the Indians, after which we 
passed Upper Gravel River on the west, 
Pottoe River on the east. Sparks went out to 
hunt and did not arrive at our encampment, 
nor did the Indians. Distance twenty-five 
miles. 

roth August, Sunday: Embarked a quarter 


1Qn modern maps the Niangua, a considerable tribu- 
tary of the Osage. 


17 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


past five o’clock, when the sun shone out very 
clearly; but in fifteen minutes it began to rain, 
and continued to rain very hard until one 
o’clock. Passed the Indians, who were en- 
camped on the west shore, about a half a mile 
and halted for them. They all forded the river 
but Sans Oreille, who brought his wife up to 
the boats and informed me that Sparks had 
encamped with them, but left them early to 
return in search of us. We proceeded after 
breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the moment 
we were embarking. The Indians traversing 
the country on the east had sent Sparks with 
Sans Oreille. About two o’clock A. M. split a 
plank in the bottom of the bateau. Unloaded 
and turned her up, repaired the breach, and 
continued on the route. By four o’clock found 
the Indians behind a large island. We made no 
stop, and they followed us. We encamped to- 
gether on a bar, where we proposed halting to 
dry our corn, etc., on Monday. Killed four 
deer. Distance 18% miles. 

11th August, Monday: We continued here, 
to dry our corn and baggage. This morning we 
had a match at shooting. The prize offered to 
the successful person was a jacket and a twist 
of tobacco, which I myself was so fortunate as 
to win. I made the articles, however, a present 
to the young fellow who waited on me. After 
this, taking Huddleson with me, I went out to 
hunt. After traveling about twelve miles we 
arrived at the river, almost exhausted with 


18 


Che Douthtwestern Erpedition 


thirst. I here indulged myself by drinking 
plentifully of the water and was rendered so 
extremely unwell by it that I was scarce ca- 
pable of pursuing my route to the camp. On 
arriving opposite it I swam the river, from 
which I experienced considerable relief. The 
party informed me they had found the heat 
very oppressive, and the mercury, at sun- 
down, was at 25° Reaumur. This day for the 
first time I saw trout west of the Allegheny 
Mountains. Reloaded our boats, and finished 
two new oars, which were requisite. 

12th August, Tuesday: Previously to our em- 
barkation, which took place at half past five 
o’clock, I was obliged to convince my red 
brethren that, if I protected them, I would not 
suffer them to plunder my men with impunity, 
for the chief had got one of my lads’ tin cups 
attached to his baggage and, notwithstanding 
it was marked with the initials of the soldier’s 
name, he refused to give it up. On which I re- 
quested the interpreter to tell him that I had 
no idea that he had purloined the cup, but 
supposed some other person had attached it to 
his baggage; but that, knowing it to be my 
soldier’s, I requested him to deliver it up, or I 
should be obliged to take other measures to 
obtain it. This had the desired effect. I cer- 
tainly should have put my threats into exe- 
cution from this principle, formed from my 
experience during my intercourse with Indians, 
that if you have justice on your side, and do not 


19 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


enforce it, they universally despise you. When 
we stopped for dinner one of my men took his 
gun and went out; not having returned when 
we were ready to reémbark, I left him. Passed 
the Indians twice when they were crossing the 
river. Passed some very beautiful cliffs on the 
west shore; also Vermillion and Grand rivers, 
the latter of which is a large stream, and 
encamped at the 

Immediately after our encampment a thun- 
der storm came on which blew overboard my 
flag-staff and a number of articles of my cloth- 
ing which were on top of the cabin, and sunk 
them immediately. Being much fatigued and 
the bank difficult of ascent, [I] lay down in the 
cabin without supper and slept all night. It 
continued to rain. The man I left on shore 
arrived on the opposite bank in the night, 
having killed two deer, but was obliged to leave 
the largest behind. Finding he was not to be 
sent for, he concealed his gun and deer and 
swam the river. Distance twenty-four miles. 

13th August, Wednesday: It continued to 
rain. In the morning sent a boat over for 
Spark’s gun and deer. Embarked at half past 
nine o’clock. Stopped to dine at two o’clock. 
During the time we halted the river rose over 
the flat bar on which we were. This, if we had 
no other proof, would convince us we were near 
the head of the river, as the rain must have 
reached it. We made almost a perfect circle so 
that I do not believe we were, at night, three 


20 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


miles from where we encamped last night. 
This day for the first time we have prairie 
hills. Distance thirteen miles. 

14th August, Thursday: Embarked at half 
past five o’clock. Passed the Park, which is ten 
miles round and not more than three-quarters 
of a mile across, bearing from S. 5° E. to due N. 
At its head we breakfasted, and just as we were 
about to put off we saw and brought to a canoe 
manned with three engagees of Mr. 
who informed us that the Little Osage had 
marched a war party against the Kans, and 
the Grand Osage a party against our citizens 
on the Arkansaw River. Wrote by them to the 
General and all friends. Gave the poor fellows 
some whiskey and eight quarts of corn, they 
having had only two turkeys for four days. We 
left them and proceeded, passing on our east 
some of the largest cedars I ever saw. Came on 
very well in the afternoon, and encamped on an 
island above Turkey Island. Distance twenty- 
eight miles. 

15th August, Friday: We embarked at five 
o’clock, and at eight o’clock met the Indians 
and the gentlemen who accompanied them. 
Found all well. They had been joined by their 
friends and relatives from the village, with 
horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant 
Wilkinson informed me that their meeting was 
very tender and affectionate, wives throwing 
themselves into the arms of their husbands, 
parents embracing their children, and children 


21 


Zebulon FA. Pike 


their parents, brothers and sisters meeting, 
one from captivity, the others from the towns 
—they at the same time returning thanks to 
the good God for having brought them once 
more together. In short, the toute ensemble was 
such as to make polished society blush, when 
compared with those savages, in whom the 
passions of the mind, either joy, grief, fear, 
anger, or revenge, have their full scope. Why 
can we not correct the baneful passions, with- 
out weakening the good? Sans Oreille made 
them a speech, in which he remarked: “Osage, 
you now see your wives, your brothers, your 
daughters, your sons redeemed from captivity. 
Who did this? Was it the Spaniards? No! 
The French? No! Had either of those people 
been governors of the country your relatives 
might have rotted in captivity, and you never 
would have seen them; but the Americans 
stretched forth their hands, and they are re- 
turned to you!! What can you do in return 
for all this goodness? Nothing! All your lives 
would not suffice to repay their goodness.” 
This man had children in captivity, not one of 
whom were we able to obtain for him. 

The chief then requested that Lieutenant 
Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson might be per- 
mitted to accompany them by land, which I 
consented to. Wrote a letter to the Cheveux 
Blanche, by Lieutenant Wilkinson. When we 
parted, aiter delivering the Indians their bag- 
gage, Sans Oreille put an Indian on board to 


22 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


hunt or obey any other commands I might 
have for him. We stopped at eleven o’clock to 
dry our baggage. Found our biscuit and crack- 
ers almost all ruined. Put off at half past four 
o’clock and encamped at three quarters past 
five o’clock. Distance 1514 miles. 

16th August, Saturday: We embarked at 
five o’clock and came on extremely well in the 
barge to a French hunting camp, evacuated, 
twelve miles to breakfast, the bateau coming 
up late. We exchanged hands. About twelve 
o’clock passed the grand fork, which is equal 
in size to the one on which we pursued our 
route. Waited to dine at the rocks called the 
Swallow’s Nest, on the west shore above the 
forks. The bateau having gained nearly half 
an hour, the crews are convinced that it is not 
the boat, but men who make the difference. 
Each took their own boat, after which we pro- 
ceeded very well, the water being good and [the] 
men in spirits. Saw an elk on the shore, also 
met an old man alone hunting, from whom we 
obtained no information of consequence. En- 
camped on the west shore at Mine River. 
Passed the place where the chief called the 
Belle Oiseau, and others were killed. Distance 
thirty-seven miles. 

r7th August, Sunday: We embarked at five 
o’clock and came twelve miles to breakfast. 
At four o’clock arrived at ten French houses on 
the east shore where was then residing a Sac 
who was married to an Osage femme and spoke 


23 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


French only. We afterwards passed the posi- 
tion where Mr. Chouteau formerly had his 
fort,’ not a vestige of which was remaining, the 
spot being only marked by the superior growth 
of vegetation. Here the river bank is one solid 
bed of stone-coal, just below which is a very 
shoal and rapid ripple; from whence to the 
village of the Grand Osage is nine miles across 
a large prairie. We came about two miles above 
and encamped on the west shore. This day the 
river has been generally bounded by prairies on 
both sides. Distance 41% miles. 

18th August, Monday: We put off at half 
past five o’clock. Stopped at nine o’clock to 
breakfast. Passed the second fork of the river 
at twelve o’clock, the right hand fork bearing 
N. about 30 yards wide, the left (the one we 
pursued)? N. 60° W. and not more than 50 or 
60 feet in width, very full of old trees, etc., but 
plenty of water. Observed the road where the 
chiefs and Lieutenant Wilkinson crossed. We 
proceeded until one o’clock, when we were 
halted by a large drift quite across the river. 
Dispatched Baroney to the village of the Grand 
Osage to procure horses to take our baggage 
nearer to the towns. Unloaded our boats, and 

1'This was Fort Carondelet, built by Pierre Chouteau 
in 1784 to restrain the Osage tribe. For a description of 
the fort and an account of the conditions responsible 
for its establishment see Houck, op. cit., II, 210-12. 

2 The party now left the Big Osage, which it had 


ascended to this point, to proceed up the Little Osage 
River to the Osage villages. 


24 


Che Douthiwestern Crpcdition 


in about two hours Lieutenant Wilkinson, with 
Tutasuggy, arrived at our camp, the former of 
whom presented me an express from the Gen- 
eral and letters from my friends. The chiefs re- 
mained at our camp all night. I was attacked 
by a violent headache. It commenced raining 
and continued with great force until day. Dis- 
tance 1914 miles. 

19th August, Tuesday: We commenced very 
early to arrange our baggage, but had not 
finished at one o’clock, when the chief of the 
Grand Osage and 4o or 50 men of his village 
arrived with horses. We loaded and took our 
departure for the place where Manuel de Liza 
had his establishment, at which we arrived 
about four o’clock and commenced pitching our 
encampment near the edge of the prairie, when 
I was informed that three men had arrived 
from St. Louis, sent by Manuel de Liza. I 
dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village 
with Baroney, who brought to camp the man 
who had charge of the others from St. Louis. 
Having no passport, I detained him until 
further consideration. Our reception by the 
Osage was flattering, and particularly by the 
White Hair and our fellow-travelers. This 
evening there arrived in the village of the Grand 
Osage an express from the Arkansaw, who 
brought the news that a boat ascending that 
river had been fired on and had two white men 
killed and two wounded, and that the brother- 
in-law of the Cheveux Blanche, who happened 


25 


Zebuion HA, Pike 


22d August, Friday: Preparing in the morn- 
ing for the council,! and committing to paper 
the heads of the subject on which I intended 
to speak. The chiefs of the Little Osage ar- 
rived about one o’clock, also the interpreter of 
the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that 
the Grand Osage had expected us at their village 
with the Little Osage. The Cheveux Blanche 
arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony of the 
council being arranged, I delivered them the 
General’s parole forwarded by express. My 
reason for not delivering it until this time was 
in order to have the two villages together, as it 
was equally interesting to both. After this I 
explained at large the will, wishes, and advice 
of their Great Father, and the mode which I 
conceived most applicable to carry them into 
effect. The Cheveux Blanche replied in a few 
words and promised to give me a full reply to- 
morrow. [The Wind replied to the same amount; 
after which the Cheveux Blanche addressed 
himself to the Wind as follows: “I am shocked 
at your conduct, Tutasuggy, you who have 
lately come from the States and should have | 
been wise; but you led the redeemed captives, 
with an officer of the United States, to your 
village, instead of bringing them through my 
town in the first instance.” To this the Wind 
made no reply, but left his seat shortly after 
under pretense of giving some orders to his 


1 The scene of the affair here described was in Osage 
Township, Vernon County, Missouri. 


28 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


young men. I conceived this reprimand intended 
barely to show us the superiority of the one and 
[the] inferiority of the other, and [it] originated, 
in my opinion, from an altercation of Lieutenant 
Wilkinson and the Cheveux Blanche, in which 
allusions were made by the former on the 
friendly conduct of the Little Chief, alias the 
Wind, when compared to that of the latter. I 
must here observe that when the chiefs and 
prisoners left me, accompanied by Lieutenant 
Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical 
situation of the two villages, but conceived 
that in going to the Little village they would 
pass by the Grand village, and of course that 
Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would 
arrange the affair properly. 

23d August, Saturday: I expected to have 
received from the chiefs their answers to my 
demands, but received an express from both 
villages informing me that they wished to put 
them off until tomorrow. I then adjusted my 
instruments. Took equal altitudes and a merid- 
ional altitude of the sun, but owing to flying 
clouds missed the immersions of Jupiter’s 
satellites. 

24th August, Sunday: Was nearly half the 
day in adjusting the line of collimation in the 
telescopic sights of my theodolite. It began to 
cloud before evening, and although the sky was 
not entirely covered I was so unfortunate as to 
miss the time of an immersion and (although 
clear in the intermediate period) an emersion 


29 


Zebulon HN, Pike 


22d August, Friday: Preparing in the morn- 
ing for the council,! and committing to paper 
the heads of the subject on which I intended 
to speak. The chiefs of the Little Osage ar- 
rived about one o’clock, also the interpreter of 
the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that 
the Grand Osage had expected us at their village 
with the Little Osage. The Cheveux Blanche 
arrived with his chiefs. The ceremony of the 
council being arranged, I delivered them the 
General’s parole forwarded by express. My 
reason for not delivering it until this time was 
in order to have the two villages together, as it 
was equally interesting to both. After this I 
explained at large the will, wishes, and advice 
of their Great Father, and the mode which I 
conceived most applicable to carry them into 
effect. The Cheveux Blanche replied in a few 
words and promised to give me a full reply to- 
morrow. The Wind replied to the same amount; 
after which the Cheveux Blanche addressed 
himself to the Wind as follows: “I am shocked 
at your conduct, Tutasuggy, you who have 
lately come from the States and should have 
been wise; but you led the redeemed captives, 
with an officer of the United States, to your 
village, instead of bringing them through my 
town in the first instance.” To this the Wind 
made no reply, but left his seat shortly after 
under pretense of giving some orders to his 


1 The scene of the affair here described was in Osage 
Township, Vernon County, Missouri. 


28 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


young men. I conceived this reprimand intended 
barely to show us the superiority of the one and 
[the] inferiority of the other, and [it] originated, 
in my opinion, from an altercation of Lieutenant 
Wilkinson and the Cheveux Blanche, in which 
allusions were made by the former on the 
friendly conduct of the Little Chief, alias the 
Wind, when compared to that of the latter. I 
must here observe that when the chiefs and 
prisoners left me, accompanied by Lieutenant 
Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical 
situation of the two villages, but conceived 
that in going to the Little village they would 
pass by the Grand village, and of course that 
Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief would 
arrange the affair properly. 

23d August, Saturday: I expected to have 
received from the chiefs their answers to my 
demands, but received an express from both 
villages informing me that they wished to put 
them off until tomorrow. I then adjusted my 
instruments. Took equal altitudes and a merid- 
ional altitude of the sun, but owing to flying 
clouds missed the immersions of Jupiter’s 
satellites. 

24th August, Sunday: Was nearly half the 
day in adjusting the line of collimation in the 
telescopic sights of my theodolite. It began to 
cloud before evening, and although the sky was 
not entirely covered I was so unfortunate as to 
miss the time of an immersion and (although 
clear in the intermediate period) an emersion 


29 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


also. Iwasinformed by Baroney that the Little 
village had made up eleven horses for us. In 
the evening, however, the interpreter, ac- 
companied by the son-in-law and son of the 
Cheveux Blanche, came to camp and informed 
me that there were no horses to be got in the 
village of the Big Osage. 

25th August, Monday: In the morning we 
were visited by the Cheveux Blanche and three 
or four of his chiefs, who were pleased to accord ~ 
to my demands. He found much difficulty in 
informing me that in all his village he could 
only raise four horses, but that we should be 
accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I 
then expressed to him the difference of our 
expectations from the reality. He remained 
until after twelve o’clock, when I went to the 
Little Osage village, and was received with 
great friendship by the chief. Remained all 
night at the house of Tutasuggy. Took the 
census. 

26th August, Tuesday: Rose early and found 
my friends in council, which was merely rela- 
tive to our horses. The chief then declared 
their determination to me, and that he himself 
gave me one horse and lent eight more to carry 
our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old 
bateau for roo dollars in merchandise, which 
I conceived infinitely preferable to leaving her 
to the uncertain safe-guard of the Indians. 
About this time we received the news that the 
party of Potawatomies were discovered to be 


30 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


near the towns. I gave them the best advice 
I was capable of giving, and then returned to 
our camp. 

27th August, Wednesday: Spent in arranging 
our baggage for the horses. Received four 
horses from the Little village and two from the 
Big village. In the evening Lieutenant Wilkin- 
son rode to the Grand village. I observed two 
immersions of Jupiter’s satellites. 

28th August, Thursday: Writing to the 
secretary at war and the General, and making 
arrangements for our departure. Visited by 
the Wind and Sans Oreille. 

20th August, Friday: [Passed the] forenoon 
writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. Robinson 
and myself went to the Grand village, at which 
we saw the great medicine dance. Remained at 
the village all night. 

30th August, Saturday: Returned to the 
camp after settling all my affairs at the town. 
Sealed up our dispatches and sent off the 
General’s express. In the afternoon we were 
visited by the principal men of the Little vil- 
lage and the chief, to whom I presented a flag, 
and made the donations which I conceived 
requisite to the different Indians, on account of 
horses, etc. 

31st August, Sunday: Arranging our packs 
and loading our horses, in order to fit our 
loads, as we expected to march on the morrow. 
Up late writing letters. 

tst September, Monday: Struck our tents 


31 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


early in the morning and commenced loading 
our horses. We now discovered that an Indian 
had stolen a large black horse which the Che- 
veux Blanche had presented to Lieutenant 
Wilkinson. I mounted a horse to pursue him, 
but the interpreter sent to town and the chief’s 
wife sent another in its place. We left the place 
about twelve o’clock with fifteen loaded horses, 
our party consisting of two lieutenants, one 
doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, fifteen 
privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and 
four chiefs of the Grand Osage, amounting in 
all to thirty warriors and one woman. We 
crossed the Grand Osage fork and a prairie 
N. 80° W. five miles to the fork of the Little 
Osage. Joined by Sans Oreille and seven Little 
Osage, all of whom I equipped for the march. 
Distance eight miles. 

2d September, Tuesday: Marched at six 
o’clock. Halted at ten o’clock and two o’clock 
on the side of the creek,! our route having been 
all the time on its borders. Whilst there I was 
informed by a young Indian that Mr. C. Chou- 
teau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it 
proper for me to return, which I did, accom- 
panied by Baroney, first to the Little village; 
from whence we were accompanied by the 
Wind to the Big village, where we remained all 
night at the lodge of the Cheveux Blanche. 

Mr. Chouteau gave us all the news, after which 
Iscrawled a letter to the General and my friends. 

1 That is, the Little Osage River. 


32 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


3d September, Wednesday: Rose early, and 
went to the Little village to breakfast. After 
giving my letters to Mr. Henry and arranging 
my affairs, we proceeded and overtook our 
party at two o’clock. They had left their first 
camp about four miles. Our horses being much 
fatigued, we concluded to remain all night. 
Sent out our red and white hunters, all of whom 
only killed two turkeys. Distance four miles. 

4th September, Thursday: When about to 
march in the morning one of our horses was 
missing, and we left Sans Oreille with the two 
Pawnees to search for him and proceeded till 
about nine o’clock; then stopped until twelve 
o’clock, and then marched. In about half an 
hour was overtaken and informed that Sans 
Oreille had not been able to find our horse, on 
which we encamped and sent two horses back 
for the load. One of the Indians, being jealous 
of his wife, sent her back to the village. After 
making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and 
myself took our horses and followed the course 
of the little stream until we arrived at the 
Grand River,! which was distant about six 
miles. We here found a most delightful basin of 
clear water of 25 paces diameter and about 100 
in circumference, in which we bathed; found it 


1 Coues explains this statement as meaning the river 
on which the Grand Osage village was located, 1.e., the 
Little Osage River. The point was at or near the Mis- 
souri-Kansas State boundary, according to Coues about 
ten miles north-northeast of Fort Scott, Kansas. 


33 


Zebulon HM, Pike 


deep and delightfully pleasant. Nature scarce- 
ly ever formed a more beautiful place for a 
farm. We returned to camp about dusk, when 
I was informed that some of the Indians had 
been dreaming and wished to return. Killed 
one deer, one turkey, one raccoon. Distance 
thirteen miles. 

5th September, Friday: In the morning our 
Little Osage all came to a determination to 
return, and, much to my surprise, Sans Oreille 
amongst the rest! I had given an order on the 
chiefs for the lost horse to be delivered to Sans 
Oreille’s wife, previously to my knowing that 
he was going back, but took from him his gun 
and the guns from all the others also. In about 
five miles we struck a beautiful hill, which 
bears south on the prairie: its elevation I sup- 
pose to be roo feet. From its summit the view 
is sublime to the east and southeast. We 
waited on this hill to breakfast, and had to 
send two miles for water. Killed a deer on the 
rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. 
Here another Indian wished to return and take © 
his horse with him, which, as we had so few, 
I could not allow, for he had already received 
a gun for the use of his horse. I told him he 
might return, but his horse would go to the 
Pawnees. We marched, leaving the Osage 
trace, which we had hitherto followed,. and 
crossed the hills to a creek which was almost 
dry. Descended it to the main river, where we 
dined. The discontented Indian came up and 


34 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


put on an air of satisfaction and content. We 
again marched about six miles farther, and 
encamped at the head of a small creek, about 
half a mile from water. Distance nineteen 
miles. 

6th September, Saturday: We marched at 
half past six o’clock and arrived at a large fork 
of the Little Osage River, where we breakfasted. 
In the holes in the creek we discovered many 
fish, which, from the stripes on their bellies and 
their spots, I supposed to be trout and bass. 
They were twelve inches long. This brought to 
mind the necessity of a net, which would have 
frequently afforded subsistence to the whole 
party. We halted at one o’clock and remained 
until four o’clock. Being told that we could not 
arrive at any water, we here filled our vessels. 
At five o’clock arrived at the dividing ridge 
between the waters of the Osage and [the] 
Arkansaw (alias White River), the dry branches 
of which interlock within twenty yards of each 
other.? The prospect from the dividing ridge to 
the east and southeast is sublime. The prairie 
rising and falling in regular swells, as far as the 
sight can extend, produces a very beautiful ap- 
pearance. We left our course and struck down 
to the southwest on a small creek, or rather 


1Coues locates this camp ‘‘somewhere in the vicinity 
of Xenia, Bourbon County, Kansas.” 

2 The stream to which Pike alludes as White River 
was the modern Neosho, which drains much of south- 
eastern Kansas and empties into the Arkansas in the 
state of Oklahoma. 


35 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


a puddle of water. Killed one deer. Distance 
twenty miles. 

7th September, Sunday: We left this at half 
past six o’clock, before which we hada difficulty 
with the son of the chief, which was accommo- 
dated. At nine o’clock we came upon a large 
fork and stopped for breakfast. Proceeded on 
and encamped on a fine stream, where we swam 
our horses and bathed ourselves. Killed four 
deer. Distance fifteen miles. 

Sth September, Monday: Marched early and 
arrived at a grand fork of the White River. The 
Indians were all discontented. We had taken 
the wrong ford, but, as they were dispersed 
through the woods, we could not be governed 
by their movements. Previously to our leaving 
the camp, the son of the Cheveux Blanche pro- 
posed returning, and offered no other reason 
than that he felt too lazy to perform the route. 
The reason I offered to prevent his going was 
ineffectual and he departed with his hunter, 
who deprived us of one horse. His return left 
us without any chief or man of consideration, 
except the son of the Belle Oiseau, who was but 
a lad. The former appeared to be a discon- 
tented young fellow and filled with self pride. 
He certainly should have considered it as an 
honor to be sent on so respectable an embassy. 
as he was. Another Indian, who owned one 
of our horses, wished to return with him, 
which was positively refused him, but fearing 
he might steal him, I contented him with a 


36 


Che Douthiwestern Erpedition 


present. We marched, and made the second 
branch, crossing one prairie twelve miles, in 
which we suffered much with drought. Dis- 
tance twenty-two miles. 

oth September, Tuesday: Marched at seven 
o’clock and struck a large creek at eleven miles 
distance. On holding a council, it was deter- 
mined to ascend this creek to the highest point 
of water and then strike across to a large river 
of the Arkansaw. We ascended four miles and 
a half, and encamped. Killed one cabrie,! two 
deer, two turkeys. Distance twelve miles. 

roth September, Wednesday: Marched early. 
Struck and passed the divide between the 
Grand River? and the Verdegris River. Stopped 
to breakfast on a small stream of the latter, 
after which we marched and encamped on the 
fourth small stream. Killed one elk, one deer. 
Distance twenty-one miles. 

11th September, Thursday: Passed four 
branches and over high hilly prairies. En- 
camped at night on a large branch of Grand 
River. Killed one cabrie, one deer. Distance 
seventeen miles. 

12th September, Friday: Commenced our 
march at seven o’clock. Passed very rough 
flint hills. My feet blistered and very sore. I 
stood on a hill and in one view below me saw 
buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and panthers. En- 
camped on the main branch of Grand River, 


1 That is, antelope. 
2 The Neosho. 


37 


Zebulon fA. Pike 


which had very steep banks and was deep. Dr. 
Robinson, Bradley, and Baroney arrived after 
dusk, having killed three buffalo, which with 
one I killed and two by the Indians made six; 
the Indians alleging it was the Kans’ hunting- 
ground, therefore they would destroyall the game 
they possibly could. Distance eighteen miles. 

13th September, Saturday: Late in marching, 
it having every appearance of rain. Halted to 
dine on a branch of Grand River. Marched 
again at half past two o’clock and halted at 
five, intending to dispatch Dr. Robinson and 
one of our Pawnees to the village to-morrow. 
Killed six Buffalo, one elk, and three deer. Dis- 
tance nine miles.! 

14th September, Sunday: The Doctor and 
Frank (a young Pawnee) marched for the vil- 
lage at daylight; we [set out] at half past six 
o’clock. Halted at one o’clock. On the march 
we were continually passing through large 
herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie, and I have no 
doubt but one hunter could support 200 men. 
I prevented the men shooting at the game, not: 
merely because of the scarcity of ammunition 
but, as I conceived, the laws of morality for- 
bade it also. Encamped at sunset on the main 
branch of White River called Grand River.? 
Killed one buffalo and one cabrie. Distance 
twenty-one miles. 


1JIn the close vicinity of Marion, Marion County, 
Kansas. Coues. 
2 Near Durham, Marion County. Coues. 


38 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


15th September, Monday: Marched at seven 
o'clock; passed a very large encampment, 
evacuated, which had been occupied last sum- 
mer. Proceeded on to the dividing ridge be- 
tween the waters of the White River and the 
Kans. This ridge was covered with a layer of 
stone, which was strongly impregnated with 
iron ore, and on the west side of said ridge we 
found spa springs. Halted at one o’clock,' very 
much against the inclination of the Osage, who, 
from the running of the buffalo, conceived a 
party of the Kans to be near. Killed two 
buffalo. Distance eighteen miles. 

16th September, Tuesday: Marched late, 
and in about four miles and a half distance 
came to a very handsome branch of water, at 
which we stopped and remained until after two 
o’clock, when we marched and crossed two 
branches. Encamped on the third. At the 
second creek a horse was discovered on the 
prairie, when Baroney went in pursuit of him 
on a horse of Lieutenant Wilkinson, but ar- 
rived at our camp without success. Distance 
thirteen miles. 

17th September, Wednesday: Marched early 
and struck the main southeast branch? of the 
Kans River at nine o’clock. It appeared to be 
twenty-five or thirty yards wide, and is navi- 
gable in the flood seasons. We passed it six 


1In the vicinity of Carleton, Dickinson County. 
Coues. 
2 Smoky Hill River. Coues. 


39 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


miles to a small branch to breakfast. Game 
getting scarce, our provision began to run low. 
Marched about two o’clock and encamped at 
sundown on a large branch. Killed one buffalo. 
Distance twenty-one miles. 

18th September, Thursday: Marched at our 
usual hour and at twelve o’clock halted at a 
large branch! of the Kans, which was strongly 
impregnated with salt. This day we expected 
the people of the village to meet us. We 
marched again at four o’clock. Our route being 
over a continued series of hills and hollows, we 
were until eight at night before we arrived at a 
small dry branch. 

It was nearly ten o’clock before we found any 
water. Commenced raining a little before day. 
Distance twenty-five miles. 

roth September, Friday: It having com- 
menced raining early, we secured our baggage 
and pitched our tents. The rain continued 
without any intermission the whole day, during 
which we employed ourselves in reading the 
Bible, Pope’s Essays, and in pricking on our 
arms with India ink some characters which will 
frequently bring to mind our forlorn and dreary 
situation, as well as the happiest days of our 
life. In the rear of our encampment was a hill 
on which there was a large rock where the 
Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine 
to apprise them of the approach of any party, 


1 The Saline River. Coues. 
40 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


friends or foes, as well as to see if they could 
discover any game on the prairies. 

20th September, Saturday: It appearing as if 
we possibly might have a clear day, I ordered 
our baggage spread abroad to dry, but it short- 
ly after clouded up and commenced raining. 
The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on the 
prairies, upon which we dispatched a hunter on 
horseback in pursuit of him, also some hunters 
out on foot, and before night they killed three 
buffalo, some of the best of which we brought in 
and jerked or dried by the fire. It continued 
showery until afternoon, when we put our bag- 
gage again in a position to dry and remained 
encamped. The detention of the Doctor and 
our Pawnee ambassador began to be a serious 
matter of consideration. 

2ist September, Sunday: We marched at 
eight o’clock, although [there was] every appear- 
ance of rain, and at eleven o’clock passed a 
large creek remarkably salt. Stopped at one 
o’clock on a fresh branch of the Salt Creek. 
Our interpreter having killed an elk, we sent 
out for some meat, which detained us so late 
that I concluded it best to encamp where we 
were in preference to running the risk of finding 
no water. Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked 
with a severe headache and slight fever. One 
of my men had been attacked with a touch of 
the pleurisy on the eighteenth and was still ill. 
We were informed by an Osage woman that 
two of the Indians were conspiring to desert 


41 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


us in the night and steal some of our horses, 
one of whom was her husband. We engaged 
her as our spy. Thus were we obliged to keep 
ourselves on our guard against our own com- 
panions and fellow-travelers, men of a nation 
highly favored by the United States, but whom 
I believe to be a faithless set of poltroons, in- 
capable of a great and generous action. Among 
them, indeed, there may be some exceptions. 

In the evening, finding that the two Indians 
above mentioned had made all preparations to 
depart, I sent for one of them who owned a 
horse and had received a gun and other property 
for his hire and told him I knew his plans, and 
that if he was disposed to desert I should take 
care to retain his horse; that as for himself he 
might leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted 
men with us. He replied, that he was a man, 
that he always performed his promises, that he 
had never said he wouldreturn, but thathe would 
follow me to the Pawnee village, which he in- 
tended to do. He then brought his baggage and 
put it under charge of the sentinel and slept by 
my fire; but notwithstanding |this] I had him 
well watched. Killed one elk. Distance ten 
miles. 

22d September, Monday: We did not march 
until eight o’clock, owing to the indisposition 
of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At eleven waited to 
dine. Light mists of rain with flying clouds. 
We marched again at three o’clock and con- 
tinued our route twelve miles to the first branch 


42 


Che Douthwestern Crpedition 


of the Republican Fork. Met a Pawnee hunter, 
who informed us that the chief had left the 
village the day after the Doctor arrived, with 
50 or 60 horses and many people, and had 
taken his course to the north of our route; 
consequently we had missed each other. He 
likewise informed [us that] the Tetaus had re- 
cently killed six Pawnees, the Kans had stolen 
some horses, and that a party of 300 Span- 
jiards had lately been as far as the Sabine, but 
for what purpose unknown. Distance eleven 
miles. 

23d September, Tuesday: Marched early 
and passed a large fork of the Kans River,! 
which I suppose to be the one generally called 
Solomon’s. One of our horses fell into the water 
and wet his load. Halted at ten o’clock on a 
branch of this fork. We marched at half-past 
one and encamped at sundown? on a stream 
where we had a great difficulty to find water. 
We were overtaken bya Pawnee, who encamped 
with us. He offered his horse for our use. Dis- 
tance twenty-one miles. 

24th September, Wednesday: We could not 
find our horses until late, when we marched. 
Before noon met Frank (who had accompanied 
Dr. Robinson to the village) and three other 
Pawnees, who informed us that the chief and 
his party had only arrived at the village yester- 


1 The Smoky Hill River. Coues. 
2 Somewhere in the vicinity of Jamestown, Republic 
County, Kansas. Coues. 


43 


Zebulon A, Pike 


day, and had dispatched them out in search of 
us. Before three o’clock we were joined by 
several Pawnees. One of them wore a scarlet 
coat with a small medal of General Washing- 
ton, and a Spanish medal also. We encamped 
at sunset on a middle-sized branch! and were 
joined by several Pawnees in the evening, who 
brought us some buffalo meat. Here we saw 
some mules, horses, bridles, and blankets, 
which they obtained of the Spaniards. Few 
only had breech cloths, most being wrapped in 
buffalo robes, otherwise quite naked. Distance 
eighteen miles. 

25th September, Thursday: We marched at a 
good hour and in about eight miles struck a 
very large road on which the Spanish troops re- 
turned and on which we could yet discover the 
grass beaten down in the direction which they 
went. 

When we arrived within about three miles 
of the village? we were requested to remain, as 


1QOn White Rock Creek, west of the town of White 
Rock, Kansas. Coues. 

2 The site of the village where Pike held his famous 
council with the Pawnee is still a matter of dispute. 
Coues, who has annotated so fully the journal of Pike, 
was compelled to confess his inability to locate it. In 
1901 representatives of the state of Kansas fixed upon 
section 3, township 2 south, range 5 west, in Republic 
County, Kansas, as the site and the legislature appro- 
priated funds for a pretentious monument which was 
erected to mark it. In September, 1906, the centenary 
of Pike’s council was celebrated here with imposing 
ceremonies. Recently, however, Supt. A. E. Sheldon 


44 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


the ceremony of receiving the Osage into the 
towns was to be performed here. There was a 
small circular spot, clear of grass, before which 
the Osage sat down. We were a small distance 
in advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then 
advanced to within a mile of us and halted, 
divided into two troops, and came on each 
flank at full charge, making all the gestures and 
performing the maneuvers of a real war charge. 
They then encircled us around and the chief 
advanced in the center and gave us his hand: 
his name was Caracterish. He was accompa- 
nied by his two sons and a chief by the name 
of Iskatappe. The Osage were still seated, but 
the Belle Oiseau then rose and came forward 
with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, who 
took a whiff or two from it. We then proceeded 
on, the chief, Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself 
in front; my sergeant, on a white horse, next 
with the colors; then our horses and baggage, 
escorted by our men, with the Pawnees on each 
side, running races, etc. When we arrived on 
the hill over the town we were again halted and 
the Osage seated in a row, when each Pawnee 
who intended so to do presented them with a 
horse [and] gave a pipe tosmoke to the Osage to 
of the Nebraska Historical Society has located, as he 
thinks, the real site of the village some miles farther 
north in southern Nebraska. William E. Connelley, 
secretary of the Kansas State Historica] Society, con- 
fesses a lack of certitude as to the identification made a 


quarter of a century ago, and equally of the one which 
Mr. Sheldon seeks to establish. 


45 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


whom he had made the present. In this manner 
were eight horses given. Lieutenant Wilkinson 
then proceeded on with the party to the river 
above the town, and encamped. As the chief 
had invited us to his lodge to eat, we thought it 
proper for one to go. At the lodge he gave me 
many particulars which were interesting to us, 
relative to the late visit of the Spaniards. I 
went up to our camp in the evening, having a 
young Pawnee with me loaded with corn for my 
men. Distance twelve miles. 

26th September, Friday: Finding our en- 
campment not eligible as to situation, we 
moved down on to the prairie hill, about three- 
fourths of a mile nearer the village. We sent 
our interpreter to town to trade for provisions. 
About three o’clock in the afternoon twelve 
Kans arrived at the village and informed Baro- 
ney that they had come to meet us, hearing we 
were to be at the Pawnees’ village. We pitched 
our camp upon a beautiful eminence, from 
whence we had a view of the town and all that 
was transacting. In the evening Baroney, with 
the chief, came to camp to give us the news, 
and returned together. 

27th September, Saturday: Baroney arrived 
from the village about one o’clock with Carac- 
terish and three other chiefs, to all of whom we 
gave a dinner. I then made an appropriate 
present to each, after which Lieutenant Wilkin- 
son and myself accompanied them to town, 
where we remained a few hours, and returned. 


46 


Che Aouthwestern Expedition 


Appointed to-morrow for the interview with the 
Kans and Osage. 

28th September, Sunday: Held a council of 
the Kans and Osage, and made them smoke 
the pipe of peace. Two of the Kans agreed to 
accompany us. We received a visit from the 
chief of the village. Made an observation on an 
emersion of one of Jupiter’s satellites. 

29th September, Monday: Held our grand 
council with the Pawnees, at which were present 
not less than 400 warriors, the circumstances of 
which were extremely interesting. The notes I 
took on my grand council held with the Pawnee 
nation were seized by the Spanish government, 
together with all my speeches to the different 
nations. But it may be interesting to observe 
here, in case they should never be returned, 
that the Spaniards had left several of their flags 
in this village, one of which was unfurled at the 
chief’s door the day of the grand council, and 
that amongst various demands and charges I 
gave them, was, that the said flag should be 
delivered to me and one of the United States’ 
flags be received and hoisted in its place. This 
probably was carrying the pride of nations a 
little too far, as there had so lately been a large 
force of Spanish cavalry at the village, which 
had made a great impression on the minds of 
the young men, as to their power, consequence, 
etc., which my appearance with twenty in- 
fantry[men] was by no means calculated to 
remove. After the chiefs had replied to various 


47 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


parts of my discourse, but were silent as to the 
flag, I again reiterated the demand for the flag, 
adding that it was impossible for the nation to 
have two fathers; that they must either be the 
children of the Spaniards or acknowledge their 
American Father. After a silence of some time, 
an old man rose, went to the door, and took 
down the Spanish flag and brought it and laid 
it at my feet, and then received the American 
flag and elevated it on the staff which had 
lately borne the standard of his Catholic 
Majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the 
Osage and Kans, both of whom decidedly avow 
themselves to be under the American protec- 
tion. Perceiving that every face in the council 
was clouded with sorrow, as if some great 
calamity was about to befall them, I took up 
the contested colors and told them that as they 
had now shown themselves dutiful children in 
acknowledging their great American Father, I 
did not wish to embarrass them with the Span- 
iards, for it was the wish of the Americans that 
their red brethren should remain peaceably 
around their own fires and not embroil them- 
selves in any disputes between the white people; 
and that for fear the Spaniards might return 
there in force again I returned them their flag, 
but with an injunction that it should never be 
hoisted during our stay. At this there was a 
general shout of applause, and the charge [was] 
particularly attended to. 

30th September, Tuesday: Remained all day 


48 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


at the camp but sent Baroney to town, who 
informed me on his return that the chief ap- 
peared to wish to throw great obstacles in our 
way. A great disturbance had taken place in 
the village owing to one of the young Pawnees 
who lately came from the United States 
(Frank) having taken the wife of an Osage and 
run away with her. The chief in whose lodge 
the Osage put up was extremely outraged, con- 
sidering it a breach of hospitality to a person 
under his roof, and threatened to kill Frank if 
he caught him. 

1st October, Wednesday: Paid a visit to town 
and had a very long conversation with the chief, 
who urged everything in his power to induce us 
to turn back. Finally, he very candidly told us 
that the Spaniards wished to have gone farther 
into our country, but he induced them to give 
up the idea; that they had listened to him and 
he wished us to do the same; that he had prom- 
ised the Spaniards to act as he now did; and 
that we must proceed no farther or he must 
stop us by force of arms. My reply was that I 
had been sent out by our great Father to explore 
the western country, to visit all his red children, 
to make peace between them, and turn them 
from shedding blood; that he might see how 
I had caused the Osage and Kans to meet to 
smoke the pipe of peace together, and take each 
other by the hands like brothers; that as yet 
my road had been smooth, and a blue sky over 
our heads. I had not seen any blood in our 


49 


Zebulon Hi. Pike 


paths, but he must know that the young war- 
riors of his great American Father were not 
women to be turned back by words; that I 
should therefore proceed, and if he thought 
proper to stop me, he could attempt it; but we 
were men, well armed, and would sell our lives at 
a dear rate to his nation; that we knew our great 
Father would send our young warriors there 
to gather our bones and revenge our deaths 
on his people, when our spirits would rejoice in 
hearing our exploits sung in the war songs 
of our chiefs. I then left his lodge and re- 
turned to camp in considerable perturbation 
of mind. 

2d October, Thursday: We received advice 
from our Kans that the chief had given pub- 
licity to his idea of stopping us by force of 
arms, which gave serious reflections to me and 
was productive of many singular expressions 
from my brave lads which called for my esteem 
at the same time that they excited my laughter. 
Attempted to trade for horses but could not 
succeed. In the night we were alarmed by 
some savages coming near our camp in full 
speed, but they retreated equally rapid [ly] on 
being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. 
This created some degree of indignation in my 
little band, as we had noticed that all the day 
had passed without any traders presenting 
themselves, which appeared as if all intercourse 
was interdicted! ! Writing [wrote] to the sec- 
retary at war, the general, etc. 


50 


Che Southwestern Crpedition 


3d October, Friday: The intercourse again 
commenced. Traded for some horses. Writing 
[wrote] for my express. 

4th October, Saturday: ‘Two French traders 
arrived at the village in order to procure horses 
to transport their goods from the Missouri to 
the village. They gave us information that 
Captains Lewis and Clark with all their people 
had descended the river to St. Louis. This 
diffused general joy through our party. Our 
trade for horses advanced none this day. 

5th October, Sunday: Buying horses, prepar- 
ing to march, and finishing my letters. 

6th October, Monday: Marched my express. 
Purchasing horses and preparing to march on 
the morrow. 

7th October, Tuesday: In the morning found 
two of our newly-purchased horses missing. 
Sent in search of them. The Indians brought 
in one pretty early. Struck our tents and 
commenced loading our horses. Finding there 
was no probability of our obtaining the other 
lost one, we marched at two Pp. M., and as the 
chief had threatened to stop us by force of 
arms we had made every arrangement to make 
him pay as dear for the attempt as possible. 
The party was kept compact, and marched on 
by a road round the village, in order that if 
attacked the savages would not have their 
houses to fly to for cover. I had given orders not 
to fire until within five or six paces and then 
to charge with the bayonet and saber when I 


St 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


believe it would have cost them at least roo men 
to have exterminated us, which would have been 
necessary. The village appeared all to be in 
motion. I galloped up to the lodge of the chief, 
attended by my interpreter and one soldier, 
but soon saw there was no serious attempt to 
be made, although many young men were walk- 
ing about with their bows, arrows, guns, and 
lances. After speaking to the chief with ap- 
parent indifference, I told him that I calculated 
on his justice in obtaining the horse and that I 
should leave a man until the next day at twelve 
o’clock to bring him out. We then joined the 
party and pursued our route. When I was once 
on the summit of the hill which overlooks the 
village, I felt [in] my mind as if relieved from 
a heavy burden; yet all the ‘evil I wished the 
Pawnees was that I might be the instrument in 
the hands of our government, to open their 
ears and eyes with a strong hand, to convince 
them of their power. Our party now consisted 
of two officers, one doctor, eighteen soldiers, 
one interpreter, three Osage men and one wom- 
an, making twenty-five warriors. We marched 
out and encamped on a small branch distant 
seven miles, on the same route we came in.! 
Rain in the night. 

8th October, Wednesday: I conceived it best 
to send Baroney back to the village with a 
present, to be offered for our horse, the chief 
having suggested the propriety of the measure. 

1 At, or near, the encampment of Sept. 24. Coues. 


52 


i 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


He met his son and the horse with Sparks. 
Marched at ten o’clock, and at four o’clock 
came to the place where the Spanish troops 
encamped the first night they left the Pawnee 
village. Their encampment was circular, hav- 
ing only small fires round the circle to cook by. 
We counted 59 fires; now if we allow six men 
to each fire, they must have been 354 in number. 
We encamped on a large branch of the second 
fork of the Kans River. Distance eighteen 
miles. 

oth October, Thursday: Marched at eight 
o'clock, being detained until that time by our 
horses being at a great distance. At eleven 
o’clock we found the forks of the Spanish and 
Pawnee roads, and when we halted at twelve 
o’clock we were overtaken by the second chief 
(or Iskatappe) and the American chief with 
one-third of the village. They presented us 
with a piece of bear meat. When we were about 
to march we discovered that the dirk of the 
doctor had been stolen from behind his saddle. 
After marching, the men, the doctor and myself, 
with the interpreter, went to the chief and de- 
manded that he should cause a search to be 
made; it was done, but when the dirk was 
found the possessor asserted that he had found 
it on the road. I told him that he did not speak 
the truth, and informed the chief that we never 
suffered a thing of ever so little value to be 
taken without liberty. At this time the prai- 
rie was covered with his men, who began to 


53 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


encircle us around, and Lieutenant Wilkinson 
with the troops had gained half a mile on the 
road. The Indian demanded a knife before he 
would give it up, but as we refused to give any, 
the chief took one from his belt and gave [it] 
to him, took the;dirk, and presented it to the 
Doctor, who immediately returned it to the 
chief as a present and desired Baroney to in- 
form him that he now saw it was not the value 
of the article but the act we despised, and then 
galloped off. In about a mile we discovered a 
herd of elk which we pursued. They took back 
in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately 
mounted fifty or sixty young men and joined 
in the pursuit. Then, for the first time in my 
life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true 
savages with their original weapons, bows and 
arrows; they buried the arrow up to the plume 
in the animal. We took a piece of meat and 
pursued our party. We overtook them and en- 
camped! within the Grand or Solomon Fork, 
which we crossed on the 23d of September 
(lower down) on our route to the Pawnees. 
This was the Spanish encamping ground. In 
the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, 
who had not eaten for three days [during] two 
of which they had carried a sick companion, 
whom they had left that day. We gave them 
supper, some meat and corn, and they im- 
mediately departed in order to carry their sick 


1Tn the vicinity of Beloit, Mitchell County, Kansas. 
Coues. 


54 


} 
i 
y 
: 


a ee ee ee ee eee 


QR ee lOO ee el Oe 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


companion this seasonable supply. When they 
were coming into camp the sentinel challenged, 
it being dark. They immediately (on seeing 
him bring his piece to the charge) supposing 
he was about to fire on them, advanced to give 
him their hands. He, however, not well dis- 
cerning their motions, was on the point of firing, 
but being a cool, collected little fellow, called 
out that there were two Indians advancing on 
him and if he should fire. This brought out the 
guard, when the poor affrighted savages were 
brought into camp, very much alarmed, for 
they had not heard of a white man’s being 
within their country, and thought they were 
entering one of the camps of their own people. 
Distance eighteen miles. 

roth October, Friday: Marched at seven 
o’clock and halted at twelve o’clock to dine. 
Were overtaken by the Pawnee chief whose 
party we left the day before, who informed us 
the hunting party had taken another road and 
that he had come to bid us goodby. We left 
a large ridge on our left, and at sundown 
crossed it. From this place we had an exten- 
sive view of the southwest. We observed a 
creek at a distance, for which I meant to pro- 
ceed. The Doctor, interpreter, and myself ar- 
rived at eight o’clock at night; found water and 
wood, but had nothing to eat. Kindled a fire in 
order to guide the party, but they, not being able 
to find the route and not knowing the distance, 
encamped on the prairie without wood or water. 


oS 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


r1th October, Saturday: Ordered Baroney to 
return to find the party and conduct them to 
our camp. The Doctor and myself went out 
to hunt, and on our return found all our people 
had arrived except the rear guard, which was in 
sight. Whilst we halted, five Pawnees came to 
our camp and brought some bones of a horse 
which the Spanish troops had been obliged to 
eat at their encampment on this creek. We 
took up our line of march at twelve o’clock and 
at sundown the party halted on the saline. I 
was in pursuit of buffalo and did not make the 
camp until near ten o’clock at night. Killed one 
buffalo. Distance twelve miles. 

12th October, Sunday: Here the Belle Oiseau 
and one Osage left us, and there remained only 
one man and woman of that nation. Their 
reason for leaving us was that our course bore 
too much west, and they desired to bear more 
for the hunting ground of the Osage. In the 
morning sent out to obtain the buffalo meat, 
and crossing the river two or three times, we 
passed two camps where the Spanish troops 
had halted. Here they appeared to have re- 
mained some days, their roads being so much 
blended with the traces of the buffalo that 
we lost them entirely. This was a mortifying 
stroke as we had reason to calculate that they 
had good guides and were on the best route for 
wood and water. We took a southwest direc- 
tion and before night were fortunate enough 
to strike their road on the left, and at dusk, 


56 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


much to our surprise, struck the east fork! of 
the Kans or La Touche de la Cote Bucanieus. 
Killed one buffalo. Distance eighteen miles. 

13th October, Monday: ‘The day being rainy, 
we did not march until two o’clock, when it 
having an appearance of clearing off, we raised 
our camp, after which we marched seven miles 
and encamped on the head of a branch of the 
river we left. Had to go two miles for water. 
Killed one cabrie. 

14th October, Tuesday: It having drizzled 
rain all night and the atmosphere being entirely 
obscured, we did not march until a quarter past 
nine o’clock, and commenced crossing the 
dividing ridge between the Kans and Arkan- 
saw rivers. Arrived on a branch of the latter 
at one o’clock. Continued down it in search 
of water until after dusk, when we found a 
pond on the prairie, which induced us to halt.? 
Sparks did not come up, being scarcely able to 
walk with rheumatic pains. Wounded several 
buffalo, but could get none of them. Distance 
twenty-four miles. 

15th October, Wednesday: In the morning 
rode out in search of the south trace and crossed 
the low prairie, which was nearly all covered 
with ponds, but could not discover it. Finding 
Sparks did not arrive, [I] sent two men in search 
of him, who arrived with him about eleven 


1 The Smoky Hill River. Coues. 
2 Somewhere in the vicinity of Claflin, Barton County, 
Kansas. Coues. 


57 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


o’clock. At twelve o’clock we commenced our 
line of march, and at five o’clock Dr. Robinson 
and myself left the party at a large creek, hav- 
ing pointed out a distant wood to Lieutenant 
Wilkinson for our encampment, in order to 
search some distance up it for the Spanish 
trace. Killed two buffalo and left part of our 
clothing with them to scare away the wolves. 
Went in pursuit of the party. On our arrival 
at the creek appointed for the encampment, 
did not find them. Proceeded down it for some 
miles, and, not finding them, encamped, struck 
fire, and then supped on one of our buffalo 
tongues. 

16th October, Thursday: Early on horseback; 
proceeded up the creek some distance in search 
of our party, but at twelve o’clock crossed to 
our two buffaloes; found a great many wolves 
at them, notwithstanding the precaution [we 
had] taken to keep them off. Cooked some 
marrow bones and again mounted our horses, 
and proceeded down the creek to their junction. 
Finding nothing of the party, I began to be 
seriously alarmed for their safety. Killed two 
more buffalo. Made our encampment and 
feasted sumptuously on the marrow-bones. 
Rain in the night. 

17th October, Friday: Rose early, determin- 
ing to search the creek to its source. Very hard 
rain, accompanied by a cold northwest [wind] 
all day. Encamped near night without being 
able to discover any signs of the party. Our 


58 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


sensations now became excruciating, not only 
for their personal safety, but the fear of the 
failure of the national objects intended’ to be 
accomplished by the expedition; and our own 
situation was not the most agreeable, not hav- 
ing more than four rounds of ammunition each, 
and [being] 400 miles in the nearest direction 
from the first civilized inhabitant. We, how- 
ever, concluded to search for them on the 
morrow, and if we did not succeed in finding 
them to strike the Arkansaw, where we were 
in hopes to discover some traces, if not cut off 
by the savages. 

18th October, Saturday: Commenced our 
route at a good time and about ten o’clock dis- 
covered two men on horseback in search of us, 
one my waiter. They informed us the party 
was encamped on the Arkansaw, about three 
miles south of where we then were!: this sur- 
prised us very much as we had no conception of 
that river being so near. On our arrival [we] 
were met by Lieutenant Wilkinson, who with 
all the party was greatly concerned for our 
safety. The Arkansaw, on the party’s arrival, 
had not water in it six inches deep, and the 
stream was not more than twenty feet wide, but 
the rain of the two days covered all the bottom 
of the river, which in this place is 250 yards 
from bank to bank. [The banks] which are not 
more than four feet in height, [are] bordered bya 


1In the immediate vicinity of the present city of 
Great Bend. Coues. 


59 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


few cotton-wood trees. On the north side [they 
are bounded] by a low swampy prairie, on the 
south by a sandy sterile desert at a small dis- 
tance. In the afternoon the Doctor and myself 
took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw in 
order to search for some trees which might 
answer the purpose to make canoes. Found 
but one, and returned at dusk. It commenced 
raining at twelve o’clock at night. 

19th October, Sunday: Finding the river ris- 
ing rapidly, I thought it best to secure our pas- 
sage over. We consequently made it good by 
ten o’clock A.M. Rain all day. Preparing our 
tools and arms for labor and the chase on the 
morrow. 

20th October, Monday: Commenced our labor 
at two trees for canoes, but one proved too 
much doated.! Killed two buffalo and one 
cabrie. Discharged our guns at a mark, the 
best shot [to receive] a prize of one tent and a 
pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at the 
root of the tree in the grass, and one of the balls 
struck him on the head and killed him. Ceased 
raining about 12 o’clock. 

21st October, Tuesday: Doctor Robinson and 
myself mounted our horses in order to go down 
the river to the entrance of the three last creeks 
we had crossed on our route, but meeting with 
buffalo we killed four; also one cabrie. Re- 
turned to camp and sent for the meat. 

22d October, Wednesday: Having sat up very 


1 That is, unsound. 
60 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


late last evening expecting the sergeant and 
party, who did not arrive, we were very anxious 
for them, but about ten o’clock Bradley ar- 
rived and informed us that they could not 
find the buffalo which we had killed on the 
prairie. They all arrived before noon, and in 
the afternoon we scaffolded some meat and 
nearly completed the frame of a skin canoe, 
which we concluded to build. Overhauled my 
instruments and made some rectifications pre- 
paratory to taking an observation, etc. 

23d October, Thursday: Dr. Robinson and 
myself, accompanied by one man, ascended the 
river with an intention of searching [for] the 
Spanish trace. At the same time we dispatched 
Baroney and our two hunters to kill some 
buffalo to obtain the skins for canoes. We as- 
cended the river about twenty miles to a large 
branch on the right. Just at dusk [we] gave 
chase to a buffalo and were obliged to shoot 
nineteen balls into him before we killed him. 
Encamped in the fork.} 

24th October, Friday: We ascended the right 
branch about five miles, but could not see any 
sign of the Spanish trace. This is not surpris- 
ing, as the river bears southwest, and they no 
doubt kept more to the west from the head of 
one branch toanother. We returned, and on our 
way killed some prairie squirrels, or wishton- 

1 The stream was the Pawnee Fork of the Arkansas; 


the place of encampment was the site of modern Larned, 
Pawnee County. Coues. 


61 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


wishes, and nine large rattlesnakes, which fre- 
quent their villages. On our arrival, found the 
hunters had come in a boat one hour [before] 
with two buffalo and one elk skin. 

25th October, Saturday: ‘Took an observation. 
Passed the day in writing, and preparing for 
the departure of Lieutenant Wilkinson. 

26th October, Sunday: Delivered out a ration 
of corn by way of distinction of the Sabbath. 
Preparing for our departure. 

27th October, Monday: Delivered to Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson letters for the General and our 
friends, with other papers, consisting of his 
instructions, traverse tables of our voyage, and 
a draught of our route to that place complete, 
in order that if we were lost and he arrived in 
safety we might not have made the tour with- 
out some benefit to our country. He took with 
him in corn and meat twenty-one days’ pro- 
visions and all the necessary tools to build 
canoes or cabins. Launched his canoes. We 
concluded we would separate in the morning, 
he to descend [the river] and we to ascend [it] to 
the mountains.! 

28th October, Tuesday: As soon as possible 
all was in motion, my party crossing the river 
to the north side and Lieutenant Wilkinson 
launching his canoes of skins and wood. We 
breakfasted together and then filed off, but 


1 From the point where Pike and Wilkinson parted, the 


former, in charge of the main party, proceeded up the 
Arkansas to the site of Pueblo, Colorado. 


62 


Che Douthiwestern Erpedition 


I suffered my party to march and I remained 
to see Lieutenant Wilkinson sail, which he did 
at ten o’clock, having one skin canoe, made of 
four buffalo skins and two elk skins; these held 
three men besides himself and one Osage. In 
his wooden canoe were one soldier, one Osage, 
and their baggage. One other soldier marched 
on shore. We parted with “God bless you” 
from both parties; they appeared to sail very 
well. In the pursuit of our party Doctor 
Robinson, Baroney, one soldier, and myself 
killed a brelaw! and a buffalo. Of the latter we 
took only his marrow bones and liver. Ar- 
rived where our men had encamped, about 
dusk. Distance fourteen miles. 

29th October, Wednesday: Marched after 
breakfast and in the first hour’s march passed 
two fires, where twenty-one Indians had recent- 
ly encamped, in which party (by their paint- 
ings on the rocks) there were seven guns. 
Killed a buffalo, halted, made fire, and feasted 
on the choice pieces of meat. About noon dis- 
covered two horses feeding with a herd of 
buffalo. We attempted to surround them, but 
they soon cleared our fleetest coursers. One 
appeared to be an elegant horse. These were 
the first wild horses we had seen. ‘Two or three 
hours before night, struck the Spanish road 
and, as it was snowing, halted and encamped 
the party at the first woods on the bank of the 
river. The Doctor and myself then forded it 

1A badger. : 


63 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


(the ice running very thick) in order to discover 
the course the Spaniards took, but owing 
to the many buffalo roads [we] could not as- 
certain it; but it appeared evident that they 
had halted here some time as the ground was 
covered with horse dung for miles around. 
Returned to camp. The snow fell about two 
inches deep and then it cleared up. Distance 
twelve miles. 

30th October, Thursday: In the morning sent 
out to kill a buffalo, to have his marrow bones 
for breakfast, which was accomplished. After 
breakfast the party marched on the north 
side and the Doctor and myself crossed with 
considerable difficulty (on account of the ice) 
to the Spanish camp, where we took a large 
circuit in order to discover the Spanish trace 
and came in at a point of woods south of the 
river, where we found our party encamped.’ 
We discovered, also, that the Spanish troops 
had marked the river up, and that a party of 
savages had been there not more than three days 
before. Killed two buffalo. Distance four miles. 

31st October, Friday: Fine day. Marched at 
three quarters past nine o’clock on the Spanish 
road. Encamped,? sun an hour high, after 
having made sixteen miles. We observed this 
day a species of crystallization on the road 
(when the sun was high) in low places where 
there had been water settled. On tasting it 


1 Opposite Garfield, Pawnee County, Kansas. Coues. 
* Opposite Kinsley, Edwards County, Kansas. Coues. 


64 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


found it to be salt. This gave in my mind some 
authenticity to the report of the prairie being 
covered for leagues. Discovered the trace of 
about twenty savages who had followed our 
road, and [of] horses going down the river. 
Killed one buffalo, one elk, one deer. 

1st November, Saturday: Marched early. 
Just after commencing our line, heard a gun 
on our left. The Doctor, Baroney, and myself 
being in advance, and lying on the ground 
waiting for the party, a band of cabrie came up 
amongst our horses, to satisfy their curiosity. 
We could not resist the temptation of killing 
two, although we had plenty of meat. At the 
report of the gun they appeared astonished, 
and stood still until we hallowed at them to 
drive them away. Encamped in the evening 
on an island. Upon using my glass to observe 
the adjacent country, I observed on the prairie 
a herd of horses. Doctor Robinson and Baro- 
ney accompanied me to go and view them. 
When within a quarter of a mile they discovered 
us and came immediately up near us, making 
the earth tremble under them. This brought 
to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They 
stopped and gave us an opportunity to view 
them. Among them there were some very 
beautiful bays, blacks, and greys, and indeed 
of all colors. We fired at a black horse with 
an idea of creasing! him, but did not succeed. 


1 That is, of stunning the animal by placing the bullet 
in the neck in such position as to convey the shock to the 
spinal cord. 

65 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


They flourished round and returned again to 
see us, when we returned to camp. 

2d November, Sunday: In the morning, for 
the purpose of trying the experiment, we 
equipped six of our fleetest coursers with riders 
and ropes to noose the wild horses if in our pow- 
er to come among the band. They stood until 
they came within forty yards of them, neighing 
and whinnowing, when the chase began, which 
we continued about two miles without success. 
Two of our horses ran up with them [but] we 
could not take them. Returned to camp. I 
have since laughed at our folly, for taking the 
wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever 
attempted, even with the fleetest horses and 
most expert ropers. (See my account of wild 
horses and the manner of taking them in 
my dissertation on the province of Texas.) 
Marched late. River turned to north by west. 
Hills change to the north side. Distance 13% 
miles. Killed one buffalo. 

3d November, Monday: Marched at ten 
o’clock. Passed numerous herds of buffalo, elk, 
some horses, etc., all traveling south. The 
river bottoms, full of salt ponds; grass similar 
to our salt meadows. Killed one buffalo. Dis- 
tance 254 miles.” 


1 The camp was made on the site of the town of Ford, 
Ford County, Kansas. Coues. ; 

2 Coues locates this camp about opposite the town of 
Howell near the western boundary of Ford County, 
Kansas. 


66 


Che Southwestern Crpedition 


4th November, Tuesday: This day brought to 
our recollection the fate of our countrymen 
at Recovery, when defeated by the Indians in 
the year ’g1.! In the afternoon discovered the 
north side of the river to be covered with ani- 
mals which, when we came to them, proved to 
be buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an 
exaggeration to say there were 3,000 in one 
view. It is worthy of remark that in all the 
extent of country yet crossed we never saw one 
cow, and that now the face of the earth ap- 
peared to be covered with them. Killed one 
buffalo. Distance 24% miles.” 

5th November, Wednesday: Marched at our 
usual hour; at the end of two miles shot a 
buffalo and two deer and halted, which de- 
tained us so long that we foolishly concluded to 
halt [for] the day and kill some cows and calves 
which lay on the opposite side of the river. I 
took post on a hill and sent some horsemen 
over, when a scene took place which gave a 
lively representation of an engagement. The 
herd of buffalo, being divided into separate 
bands, covered the prairie with dust, and first 
charged on the one side, then to the other, as the 
pursuit of the horsemen impelled them. The 
report and smoke from the guns added to 
the pleasure of the scene, which in part com- 
pensated for our detention. 


! The allusion is to the defeat of General St. Clair’s 
army by the northwestern Indians. 

2 About five miles west of Ingalls, Gray County, 
Kansas. Coues. 


67 


Zebulon fA, Pike 


6th November, Thursday: Marched early, 
but [were] detained two or three hours by the 
cows which we killed. The cow buffalo was 
equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted 
sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not 
attempt to describe the droves of animals we 
now saw on our route. Suffice it to say that the 
face of the prairie was covered with them on 
each side of the river; their numbers exceeded 
imagination. Distance sixteen miles.} 

7th November, Friday: Marched early. The 
herbage being very poor, [we] concluded to lay 
by on the morrow in order to recruit our horses. 
Killed three cow buffalo, one calf, two wolves, 
[and] one brelaw. Distance eighteen miles.? 

8th November, Saturday: Our horses being 
very much jaded and our situation very eligi- 
ble, we halted all day. Jerked meat, mended 
mockinsons, etc. 

oth November, Sunday: Marched early. At 
twelve o’clock struck the Spanish road (which 
had been on the outside of us)* which appeared 
to be considerably augmented, and on our 
arrival at the camp found it to consist of ninety- 
six fires, from which a reasonable conclusion 
might be drawn that there were from 600 to 
700 men. We this day found the face of the 


1 This camp was some three or four miles east of 
Garden City, Kansas. Coues. 

* Near the boundary between Finney and Kearney 
counties, Kansas. Coues. 

3 That is, Pike’s route had been closer to the river 
than the trail left by the Spaniards. 


68 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


country considerably changed, being hilly, with 
springs. Passed numerous herds of buffalo and 
some horses. Distance twenty-seven miles.! 

roth November, Monday: The hills increased 
[and] the banks of the river [were] covered with 
groves of young cottonwood; the river itself 
much narrower and crooked. Our horses grow- 
ing weak, two gave out, bring them along 
empty. Cut down trees at night for them to 
browze on. Killed one buffalo. Distance 
twenty miles.” 

rt1th November, Tuesday: Marched at the 
usual hour. Passed two old, and one last sum- 
mer, camps which had belonged to the savages, 
and, we suppose, Tetaus. Passed a Spanish 
camp where it appeared they remained some 
days, as we conjectured to lay up meat pre- 
viously to entering the Tetau country, as the 
buffalo evidently began to grow much less 
numerous. Finding the impossibility of per- 
forming the voyage in the time proposed, I 
determined to spare no pains to accomplish 
every object, even should it oblige me to spend 
another winter in the desert. Killed one buf- 
falo, one brelaw. Distance twenty-four miles.* 

12th November, Wednesday: Was obliged to 
leave two horses, which entirely gave out. 


1 This camp was in the vicinity of Harland, Kearney 
County, Kansas. Coues. 

Camp near Syracuse, Hamilton County, Kansas. 
Coues. 

$’ The encampment was on or near the Kansas-Colo- 
rado state boundary. Coues. 


69 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


Missed the Spanish road. Killed one buffalo. 
Distance twenty miles. 

13th November, Thursday: We marched at 
the usual hour. The river banks begin to be 
entirely covered with woods on both sides, but 
no other species than cottonwood. Discovered 
very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our 
hunters informed me he saw a man on horse- 
back ascending a ravine on our left. Discov- 
ered signs of war parties ascending the river. 
Wounded several buffalo. Killed one turkey, 
the first we have seen since we left the Pawnees.* 

r4th November, Friday: In the morning 
Doctor Robinson, one man, and myself went up 
the ravine, on which the man was supposed to 
have been seen, but could make no important 
discovery. Marched at two o’clock. Passed a 
point of red rocks and one large creek. Dis- 
tance ten miles. 

15th November, Saturday: Marched early. 
Passed two deep creeks and many high points 
of the rocks, also large herds of buffalo. At 
two o’clock in the afternoon I thought I could 
distinguish a mountain to our right, which 
appeared like a small blue cloud. Viewed it 
with the spy glass and was still more confirmed 
in my conjecture, yet only communicated it to 
Doctor Robinson, who was in front with me, 
but in half an hour they appeared in full view 
before us. When our small party arrived on the 


1 The night’s camp was ‘‘within a mile or two” of 
Lamar, Colorado. Coues. 


7O 


+e 


Che Douthivestern Expedition 


hill they with one accord gave three cheers 
to the Mexican mountains. Their appearance 
can easily be imagined by those who have 
_ crossed the Alleghanies; but their sides were 
whiter, as if covered with snow or a white 
stone. Those were a spur of the grand western 
chain of mountains which divides the waters 
of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic Ocean, 
and it divided the waters which empty into the 
bay of the Holy Spirit from those of the Mis- 
sissippi as the Alleghanies do those which dis- 
charge themselves into the latter river and the 
Atlantic. They appear to present a natural 
boundary between the provinces of Louisiana 
and New Mexico, and would be a defined and 
natural boundary. Before evening we dis- 
covered a fork! on the south side bearing S. 
25° W., and as the Spanish troops appeared to 
have borne up it we encamped on its banks 
about one mile from its confluence, that we 
might make further discoveries on the morrow. 
Killed three buffalo. Distance twenty-four 
miles. 

16th November, Sunday: After ascertaining 
that the Spanish troops had ascended the right 
branch, or main river, we marched at two 
o'clock p. Mm. The Arkansaw appeared at this 
place to be much more navigable than below, 
where we first struck it; and from any impedi- 
ment I have yet discovered in the river I would 
not hesitate to embark in February at its 

1 Purgatory River. 


rp 


Zebulon HA. Pike - 


mouth and ascend to the Mexican mountains 
with crafts properly constructed. Distance 
11% miles. 
17th November, Monday: Marched at our 
usual hour. Pushed [on] with an idea of arriving 
at the mountains, but found at night no visible 
difference in their appearance, from what we 
did yesterday. One of our horses gave out and 
was left in a ravine, not being able to ascend 
the hill, but I sent back for him and had him 
brought to the camp. Distance 234% miles.1 
18th November, Tuesday: As we discovered 
fresh signs of the savages we concluded it best 
to stop and kill some meat, for fear we should 
get into a country where we could not kill game. 
Sent out the hunters; I walked, myself, to an 
eminence from whence I took the courses to the 
different mountains, and a small sketch of their 
appearance. In the evening found the hunters 
had killed without mercy, having slain seven- 
teen buffalo and wounded at least twenty more. 
19th November, Wednesday: Having several 
buffalo brought in, [I] gave out sufficient to last 
this month. I found it expedient to remain and 
dry the meat, as our horses were getting very 
weak, and the one died which was brought up 
on the eighteenth. Had a general feast of mar- 
row bones, 136 of them furnishing the repast. 
20th November, Thursday: Marched at our 
usual hour, but as our horses’ loads were con- 
siderably augmented by the death of one horse 
1Camp in the vicinity of Rocky Ford. Coues. 


72 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


and the addition of 900 pounds of meat, we 
moved slowly and made only eighteen miles.! 
Killed two buffalo and took some choice pieces. 

21st November, Friday: Marched at our 
usual hour. Passed two Spanish camps within 
three miles of each other. We again discovered 
the tracks of two men who had ascended the 
river yesterday. This caused us to move with 
caution, but at the same time increased our 
anxiety to discover them. The river was cer- 
tainly as navigable here (and I think much 
more so) as [it was] some hundred miles below, 
which I suppose arises from its flowing through 
a long course of sandy soil, which must absorb 
much of the water and render it shoaler below 
than above, near the mountains. Distance 
twenty-one miles. 

22d November, Saturday: Marched at our 
usual hour, and with rather more caution than 
usual. After having marched about five miles 
on the prairie, we descended into the bottom, 
the front only when Baroney cried out Voila un 
Savage, when we observed a number running 
from the woods towards us. We advanced to 
them and on turning my head to the left I ob- 
served several running on the hill, as it were to 
surround us, one with a stand of colors. This 
caused a momentary halt, but perceiving those 
in front reaching out their hands, and with- 
out arms, we again advanced. They met us 
with open arms, crowding round to touch and 

1This camp was near Rockdale, Colorado. Coues. 


73 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


embrace us. They appeared so anxious that I 
dismounted my horse, and in a moment a 
fellow had mounted him and was off. I then 
observed [that] the Doctor and Baroney were 
in the same predicament. The Indians were 
embracing the soldiers; after some time tran- 
quillity was so far restored (they having re- 
turned our horses all safe) as to enable us to 
learn they were a war party from the grand 
Pawnees who had been in search of Tetaus, 
but not finding them [they] were now on their 
return. An unsuccessful war party on their 
return home are always ready to embrace an 
opportunity of gratifying their disappointed 
vengeance on the first persons whom they meet. 
We made for the woods and unloaded our 
horses; when the two partisans endeavored to 
arrange the party it was with great difficulty 
that they got them tranquil, and not until there 
had been a bow or two bent on the occasion. 
When [they were] in some order we found 
them to be sixty warriors, half with firearms 
and half with bows, arrows, and lances. Our 
party was sixteen total. In a short time 
they were arranged in a ring and I took my 
seat between the two partisans. Our colors 
were placed opposite each other [and] the 
utensils for smoaking, etc., were paraded on a 
small seat before us; thus far all was well. I 
then ordered half a carrot of tobacco, one dozen 
knives, sixty fire-steels and sixty flints to be 
presented them. They demanded ammunition, 


74 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


corn, blankets, kettles, etc., all of which they 
were refused, notwithstanding the pressing in- 
stances of my interpreter to accord to some 
points. The pipes yet lay unmoved, as if they 
were undetermined whether to treat us as 
friends or enemies; but after some time we were 
presented witha kettle of water, [and we] drank, 
smoked, and ate together. During this time 
Doctor Robinson was standing up to observe 
their actions, in order that we might be ready 
to commence hostilities as soon as they. They 
now took their presents and commenced dis- 
tributing them, but some malcontents threw 
them away by way of contempt. We began to 
load our horses when they encircled us and 
commenced stealing everything they could. 
Finding it was difficult to preserve my pistols, 
I mounted my horse, when I found myself fre- 
quently surrounded, during which [time] some 
were endeavoring to steal the pistols. The 
Doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, 
and all the soldiers in their positions in tak- 
ing things from them. One having stolen my 
tomahawk, I informed the chief, but he paid no 
respect except to reply that “they were pitiful.” 
Finding this [was his attitude] I determined to 
protect ourselves as far as was in my power, 
and the affair began to take a serious aspect. 
I ordered my men to take their arms and sepa- 
rate themselves from the savages, at the same 
time declaring to them I would kill the first man 
who touched our baggage, on which they com- 


75 


Zebulon fA, Pike 


menced filing off immediately. We marched 
about the same time and found they had 
made out to steal one sword, [one] tomahawk, 
[one] broad axe, five canteens, and sundry other 
small articles. After our leaving them when I re- 
flected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely 
mortified that the smallness of my number [had] 
obliged me thus to submit to the insults of 
a lawless banditti, it being the first time a 
savage ever took anything from me with the 
least appearance of force. After encamping at 
night the Doctor and myself went about one 
mile back and way-laid the road, determined 
in case we discovered any of the rascals pur- 
suing us to steal our horses to kill two at least; 
but after waiting behind some logs until some 
time in the night and discovering no person, 
we returned to camp. Distance seventeen 
miles. Killed two buffalo and one deer. 

23d November, Sunday: Marched at ten 
o’clock. At one o’clock came to the third fork 
on the south side and encamped at night in the 
point of the grand forks.! As the river ap- 
peared to be dividing itself into many small 
branches, and of course must be near its ex- 
treme source, I concluded to put the party in a 
defensible situation and ascend the north fork, 
to the high point? of the blue mountain, which 
we conceived would be one day’s march, in 
order to be enabled from its pinnacle to lay 

1On the site of the city of Pueblo, Colorado. 

* Pike’s Peak. 

76 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


down the various branches and position of the 
country. Distance nineteen miles. Killed five 
buffalo. 

24th November, Monday: Early in the morn- 
ing cut down fourteen logs and put up a breast 
work five feet high on three sides and the other 
was thrown on the river. After giving the [men] 
necessary orders for their government during 
my absence, in case of our not returning, we 
marched at one o’clock with an idea of arriving 
at the foot of the mountain, but found our- 
selves obliged to take up our night’s lodging 
under a single cedar, which we found in the 
prairie, without water and extremely cold. Our 
party, besides myself, consisted of Doctor 
Robinson [and] Privates Miller and Brown. 
Distance twelve miles. 

25th November, Tuesday: Marched early, 
with an expectation of ascending the mountain, 
but were only able to encamp at its base, after 
passing over many small hills covered with 
cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment was 
on a creek where we found no water for several 
miles from the mountain, but near its base 
found springs sufficient. Took a meridional 
observation, and the altitude of the mountain. 
Killed two buffalo. Distance twenty-two 
miles. 

26th November, Wednesday: Expecting to 
return to our camp that evening, we left all our 
blankets and provisions at the foot of the 
mountain. Killed a deer of a new species and 


id 


Zebulon HM, Pike 


hung his skin on a tree with some meat. We 
commenced ascending [but] found it very diffi- 
cult, being obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes 
almost perpendicular; after marching all day 
we encamped in a cave without blankets, 
victuals, or water. We had a fine clear sky 
whilst it was snowing at the bottom. On the 
side of the mountain we found only yellow 
and pitch-pine. Some distance up we found 
buffalo, [and] higher still the new species of deer 
and pheasants. | 

27th November, Thursday: Arose hungry, 
dry, and extremely sore from the inequality of 
the rocks on which we had lain all night, but 
were amply compensated for [our] toil by the 
sublimity of the prospect below. The un- 
bounded prairie was overhung with clouds, 
which appeared like the ocean in a storm; wave 
piled on wave and foaming, whilst the sky was 
perfectly clear where we were. Commenced 
our march up the mountain and in about one 
hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here 
we found the snow middle deep; no sign of 
beast or bird inhabiting this region. The 
thermometer, which stood at 9° above zero at 
the foot of the mountain, here fell to 4° below 
zero. The summit of the Grand Peak,! which 
was entirely bare of vegetation and covered 


1Pike and his companions had ascended Cheyenne 
Mountain. The ‘Grand Peak” beyond them was, of 
course, modern Pike’s Peak which Pike, contrary to 
popular belief, never set foot upon. 


78 


Che DAouthwestern Expedition 


with snow, now appeared at the distance of 
fifteen or sixteen miles from us, and as high 
again as what we had ascended, and would 
have taken a whole day’s march to have 
arrived at its base, when I believe no human 
being could have ascended to its pinnacle. This, 
with the condition of my soldiers, who had only 
light overalls on and no stockings and [were in] 
every way ill provided to endure the inclemency 
of the region, [and] the bad prospect of killing 
anything to subsist on, with the further deten- 
tion of two or three days which it must occa- 
sion, determined us toreturn. The clouds from 
below had now ascended the mountain and 
entirely enveloped the summit, on which rests 
eternal snow. We descended by a long deep 
ravine with much less difficulty than [we had] 
contemplated. Found all our baggage safe, 
but the provisions all destroyed. It began to 
snow and we sought shelter under the side of a 
projecting rock, where we all four made a meal 
on one partridge and a piece of deer’s ribs the 
ravens had left us, being the first we had eaten 
in that forty-eight hours. 

28th November, Friday: Marched at nine 
o'clock. Kept straight down the creek to avoid 
the hills. At half past one o’clock shot two 
buffalo, when we made the first full meal we 
had made in three days. Encamped in a valley 
under a shelving rock. The land here very rich 
and covered with old Tetau camps. 

20th November, Saturday: Marched, after a 


79 


Zebulon Hi. Pike 


short repast, and arrived at our camp before 
night. Found all well. 

30th November, Sunday: Marched at eleven 
o’clock, it snowing very fast, but my impatience 
to be moving would not permit my lying still 
at that camp. The Doctor, Baroney, and my- 
self went to view a Tetau encampment, which 
appeared to be about two years old; and from 
their having cut down so large a quantity of 
trees to support their houses, [we] concluded 
there must have been at least one thousand 
souls. Passed several more in the course of the 
day, also one Spanish camp. Distance fifteen 
miles. Killed two deer. This day came to the 
first cedar and pine. 

1st December, Monday: The storm still con- 
tinuing with violence, we remained encamped. 
The snow by night [was] one foot deep. Our 
horses [were] obliged to scrape it away to obtain 
their miserable pittance, and to increase their 
misfortunes the poor animals were attacked 
by the magpies, who, attracted by the scent 
of their sore backs, alighted on them and in 
defiance of their wincing and kicking picked 
many places quite raw. The difficulty of pro- 
curing food rendered those birds so bold as to 
light on our men’s arms and eat meat out of 
their hands. One of our hunter’s out, but killed 
nothing. 

2d December, Tuesday: It cleared off in the 
night and in the morning the thermometer 
stood at 17° below zero (Reaumur), being three 


80 


Don Ek wee 


pgpencd taka" ta 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


times as cold as any morning we had yet ex- 
perienced. We killed an old buffalo on the 
opposite side of the river, which here was so 
deep as to swim [our] horses. Marched, and 
found it necessary to cross to the north side 
about two miles up, as the ridge joined the 
river. The ford was a good one, but the ice ran 
very bad and two of the men got their feet 
frozen before we could get accommodated with 
fire, etc. Secured some of our old buffalo and 
continued our march. The country being very 
rugged and hilly, one of our horses took a freak 
in his head and turned back, which occasioned 
three of our rear-guard to lie out all night. I 
was very apprehensive they might perish on 
the open prairie. Distance thirteen miles. 

3d December, Wednesday: ‘The weather mod- 
erating to 3° below zero, our absentees joined, 
one with his feet frozen, but were not able to 
bring up the horse. Sent two men back on 
horseback. The hardships of last voyage! had 
now begun, and had the climate only been as 
severe as the climate then was some of the men 
must have perished, for they had no winter 
clothing. I myself wore cotton overalls, for I 
had not calculated on being out in that inclem- 
ent season of the year. Dr. Robinson and my- 
self, with assistants, went out and took the 
altitude of the north mountain,” on the base of 


1 The allusion is to the upper Mississippi River expe- 
dition of 1805-1806. 
2 Pike’s Peak. 


81 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


a mile, after which, together with Sparks, we 
endeavored to kill a cow, but without effect. 
Killed two bulls, that the men might use pieces 
of their hides for mockinsons. Left Sparks. 
On our return to camp found the men had got 
back with the strayed horse, but too late to 
march. 

4th December, Thursday: Marched about 
five; took up Sparks, who had succeeded in 
killing a cow. Killed two buffalo and six tur- 
keys. Distance twenty miles.! 

5th December, Friday: Marched at our 
usual hour. Passed one very bad place of 
falling rocks; had to carry our loads. En- 
camped on the main branch of the river near 
the entrance of the south mountain. In the 
evening walked up to the mountain. Heard 
fourteen guns at camp during my absence, 
which alarmed me considerably. Returned as 
quickly as possible, and found that the cause 
of my alarm was their shooting turkeys. 
Killed two buffalo and nine turkeys. Distance 
eighteen miles.” 

6th December, Saturday: Sent out three 
different parties to hunt the Spanish trace, 
but without success. The Doctor and myself 
followed the river into the mountain, which was 
bounded on each side by the rocks of the moun- 
tain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 

1Coues locates this camp opposite the town of Flor- 


ence, Colorado. 
Camp within the limits of Cafion City, Colorado. 


82 


ee 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


or 60 feet.! Killed two buffalo, two deer, one 
turkey. 

7th December, Sunday: We again dispatched 
parties in search of the trace. One party dis- 
covered it on the other side of the river, and 
followed it into the valley of the river at the 
entrance of the mountain, where they met two 
parties who were returning from exploring the 
two branches of the river in the mountains: 
of which they reported to have ascended until 
the river was merely a brook, bounded on both 
sides with perpendicular rocks, impracticable 
for horses ever to pass them. They then re- 
crossed the river to the north side and discov- 
ered (as they supposed) that the Spanish troops 
had ascended a dry valley to the right. On 
their return they found some rock salt, sam- 
ples of which were brought me. We determined 
to march [on] the morrow to the entrance of 
the valley, there to examine the salt and the 
road. Killed one wildcat. 

8th December, Monday: On examining the 
trace found yesterday, conceived it to have 
been only a reconnoitering party dispatched 
from the main body, and on analyzing the rock 
salt found it to be strongly impregnated with 
sulphur. There were some very strong sul- 
phurated springs at its foot. Returned to 
camp. Took with me Dr. Robinson and Miller 
and descended the river, in order to discover 


1 Pike had entered the Royal Gorge, now traversed by 
the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. 


83 


Zebulon HM, Pike 


certainly if the whole party had come by this 
route. Descended about seven miles on the 
south side. Saw great quantities of turkeys 
and deer. Killed one deer. 

oth December, Tuesday: Before we marched, 
killed a fine buck at our camp as he was passing. 
Found the Spanish camp about four miles be- 
low, and from every observation we could 
make conceived they had all ascended the river. 
Returned to camp,! where we arrived about 
two o'clock. Found all well; would have moved 
immediately, but four men were out reconnoit- 
ering. Killed three deer. 

roth December, Wednesday: Marched, and 
found the road over the mountain to be excel- 
lent. Encamped on a dry ravine. Obliged to 
melt snow for ourselves and horses, and as there 
was nothing else for the latter to eat, gave 
them one pint of corneach. Killed one buffalo. 

11th December, Thursday: Marched at ten 
o’clock, and in one mile struck a branch of the 
Arkansaw on which the supposed Spaniards 
had encamped where there was both water and 
grass. Kept up this branch,” but were frequent- 
ly embarrassed as to the trace. At three o’clock 
p.M., having nosign of it, halted and encamped, 
and went out to search it. Found it about one 
mile to the right. Distance fifteen miles. 


Still on the site of Cafion City. 

2? Identified by Coues as Oil Creek, which rises to the 
westward of Pike’s Peak and flows south about fifty 
miles to its junction with the Arkansas a few miles be- 
low Cafion City. 


84 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


12th December, Friday: Marched at 9 o’clock. 
Continued up the same branch as yesterday. 
The ridges on our right and left appeared to 
grow lower, but mountains appeared on our 
flanks, through the intervals, covered with 
snow. Owing to the weakness of our horses 
made only twelve miles. 

13th December, Saturday: Marched at the 
usual hour and passed large springs and the 
supposed Spanish camp, and at twelve o’clock, 
a dividing ridge, and immediately fell on a 
small branch running N. 20° W. There being 
no appearance of wood, we left it and the 
Spanish Trace to our right and made for the 
hills to encamp. After the halt I took my gun 
and went out to see what discovery I could 
make and after marching about two miles 
north fell on a river forty yards wide, frozen 
over, which, after some investigation, I found 
ran northeast. This was the occasion of much 
surprise, aS we were taught to expect to have 
met with the branches of the Red River, which 
should run southeast. Query: Must it not be 
the headwaters of the river Platte?! If so the 
Missouri must run much more west than is 
generally represented, for the Platte is a small 
river, by no means presenting an expectation 
of so extensive a course. Distance eighteen 
miles. One horse gave out and was left. 

14th December, Sunday: Marched. Struck 


1 Pike had in fact reached the South Platte, at Eleven 
Mile Cafion. Coues. 


85 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


the river, ascended it four miles, and encamped 
on the north side. The prairie, being about 
two miles wide, was covered at least six miles, 
on the banks of the river, with horse dung and 
the marks of Indian camps, which had been 
[made] since the cold weather, as was evident 
by the fires which were in the center of the 
lodges. The sign made by their horses was 
astonishing, and would have taken a thousand 
horses some months. As it was impossible to 
say which course the Spaniards pursued, 
amongst this multiplicity of signs, we halted 
early and discovered that they or the savages 
had ascended the river. We determined to 
pursue them. As the geography of the country 
had turned out to be so different from our ex- 
pectation, we were somewhat at a loss which 
course to pursue, unless we attempted to cross 
the snow-capped mountains to the southeast 
of us, which was almost impossible. Bursted 
one of our rifles, which was a great loss, as 
it made three guns which had bursted, [besides] 
the five which had been broken on the march, 
and one of my men was now armed with my 
sword and pistols. Killed two buffalo. 

15th December, Monday: After repairing our 
guns we marched, but were obliged to leave 
another horse. Ascended the river, both sides 
of which were covered with old Indian camps, 
at which we found corn cobs. This induced 
us to believe that those savages, although 
erratic, must remain long enough in one posi- 


86 


eS a 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


tion to cultivate this grain, or to obtain it 
of the Spaniards. From their sign they must 
have been extremely numerous, and [have] 
possessed vast numbers of horses. My poor 
fellows suffered extremely with cold, being 
almost naked. Distance ten miles.! 

16th December, Tuesday: Marched up the 
river about two miles and killed a buffalo, 
when, finding no road up the stream, we 
halted and dispatched parties different courses. 
The Doctor and myself ascended high enough 
to enable me to lay down the course of the 
river into the mountains. From a high ridge 
we reconnoitered the adjacent country and 
concluded, putting the Spanish trace out of 
the question, to bear our course southwest, 
for the head of Red River. One of our party 
found a large camp, which had been occu- 
pied by at least 3,000 Indians, with a large 
cross in the middle. Query: Are those people 
Catholics ? 

17th December, Wednesday: Marched, and on 
striking a left-hand fork of the river we had 
left, found it to be the main branch. Ascended 
it some distance but finding it to bear too 
much to the north, we encamped? about two 
miles from it for the purpose of benefiting 
by its water. Distance fifteen miles. 

18th December, Thursday: Marched, and 


1Camp in the vicinity of Sulphur Springs. Coues. 
* About two miles west of the town of Hartzell. 
Coues. 


87 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


crossed the mountain which lay southwest of 
us. In a distance of seven miles arrived at a 
small spring. Some of our lads observed they 
supposed it to be Red River, to which I then 
gave very little credit. On entering a gap in 
the next mountain, came past an excellent 
spring which formed a fine creek, which we 
followed through narrows in the mountains for 
about six miles. Found many evacuated camps 
of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing 
out the ground for the encampment, the Doc- 
tor and myself went on to make discoveries, 
as was our usual custom, and in about four 
miles’ march we struck what we supposed to be 
Red River,! which here was about twenty-five 
yards wide, ran with great rapidity, and was 
full of rocks. We returned to the party with 
the news, which gave general pleasure. De- 
termined to remain a day or two in order to 
examine the source. Distance eighteen miles. 
Snowing. 

roth December, Friday: Marched down the 
creek near the opening of the prairie and en- 
camped.? Sent out parties hunting, etc., but 
had no success. Still snowing and stormy; 
making preparations to take an observation. 

2oth December, Saturday: Having found a 
fine place for pasture on the river, sent our 
horses down to it with a guard; also [sent] three 


parties out hunting, all of whom returned . 


1 The Arkansas River. 
? Not far from Buena Vista, Chaffee County. Coues. 


88 


eile 
* SST 
oa fst ee 


oe 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


without success. Took an observation. As 
there was no prospect of killing any game it 
was necessary that the party should leave that 
place. I therefore determined that the Doctor 
and Baroney should descend the river in the 
morning, that myself and two men would 
ascend [it], and the rest of the party [would] 
descend after the Doctor until they obtained 
provision and could wait for me. 

21st December, Sunday: The Doctor and 
Baroney marched. The party remained for me 
to take a meridional observation, after which 
we separated. Myself and the two men who 
accompanied me (Mountjoyand Miller) ascend- 
ed twelve miles and encamped on the north 
side, the river continuing close to the north 
mountain and running through a narrow rocky 
channel, in some places not more than twenty 
feet wide and at least ten feet deep. Its banks 
[were] bordered by yellow pine, cedars, etc. 

22d December, Monday: Marched up [the 
river] thirteen miies to a large point of the 
mountain from whence we had a view [of] at 
least thirty-five miles, to where the river 
entered the mountains, it being at that place 
not more than ten or fifteen feet wide and, 
properly speaking, only a brook. From this 
place, after taking the course and estimating 
the distance, we returned to our camp of last 
evening. Killed one turkey and a hare. 

23d December, Tuesday: Marched early and 
at two o’clock p.m. discovered the trace of 


89 


Zebulon HM, Pike 


the party on the opposite side of the river. 
Forded it, although extremely cold; and 
marched until some time in the night, when 
we arrived at the second night’s encampment 
of the party. Our clothing was frozen stiff. 
and we ourselves were considerably benumbed. 

24th December, Wednesday: ‘The party’s 
provision extended only to the twenty-third, 
and their orders [were] not to halt until they 
killed some game, and then wait for us. Con- 
sequently, they might have been considerably 
advanced. About 11 o’clock met Doctor 
Robinson on a prairie, who informed me that 
he and Baroney had been absent from the 
party two days without killing anything, 
also without eating, but that over night they 
had killed four buffalo, and that he was in 
search of the men. [I]suffered the two lads with 
me to go to the camp where the meat was, as 
we had also been nearly two days without 
eating. The Doctor and myself pursued the 
trace and found them encamped on the river 
bottom.! Sent out horses for the meat. 
Shortly after, Sparks arrived and informed us 
he had killed four cows. Thus from being in 
a starving condition we had eight beeves in 
our camp. We now again found ourselves 
all assembled together on Christmas eve and 
appeared generally to be content, although all 
the refreshment we had to celebrate that day 


1Tn the immediate vicinity of Brown Cafion, about 
seven miles above Salida. Coues. 


go 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


with was buffalo meat, without salt or any 
other thing whatever. My little excursion up 
the river was in order to establish the geog- 
raphy of the sources of the supposed Red 
River. As I well knew the indefatigable re- 
searches of Doctor Hunter, Dunbar, and 
Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in the 
extent of their voyage up said river, I deter- 
mined that its upper branches should be 
equally well explored, as in this voyage I had 
already ascertained the sources of the Osage! 
and White! rivers, been round the head of the 
Kans River, and on the headwaters of the 
Platte.! 

25th December, Thursday: It being stormy 
weather and having meat to dry, I concluded 
to lie by this day. Here I must take the liberty 
of observing that in this situation the hard- 
ships and privations we underwent were on this 
day brought more fully to our mind: having 
been accustomed to some degree of relaxation 
and extra enjoyments; but here, 800 miles from 
the frontiers of our country, in the most in- 
clement season of the year, not one person 
clothed for the winter, many without blankets 
(having been obliged to cut them up for socks, 
etc.), and now lying down at night on the snow 
or wet ground, one side burning whilst the 
other was pierced with the cold wind—this was 
in part the situation of the party, whilst some 

1That is, the Little Osage, the Neosho, and the South 
Platte. 


QI 


Zebulon HH, Pike 


were endeavoring to make a miserable sub- 
stitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I will 
not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be be- 
neath the serious consideration of a man on a 
voyage of such nature. We spent the day as 
agreeably as could be expected from men in 
our situation. Caught a bird of a new species, 
having made a trap for him. 

26th December, Friday: Marched at two 
o’clock and made 7% miles to the entrance of 
the mountains.! On this piece of prairie the 
river spread considerably, and formed several 
small islands. A large stream enters from the 
south. As my boy and some others were sick, I 
omitted pitching our tent in order that they 
might have it, in consequence of which we were 
completely covered with snow on top, as well 
as that part on which we lay. 

27th December, Saturday: Marched over an 
extremely rough road. Our horses received 
frequent falls and cut themselves considerably 
on the rocks. From there being no roads of 
buffalo or sign of horses, I am convinced that 
neither those animals nor the aborigines of the 
country ever take this route to go from the 
source of the river out of the mountains, but 
that they must cross one of the chains to the 
right or left, and find a smoother track to the 
lower country. Were obliged to unload our 


" 1.The party descended the Arkansas from the camp 
at Brown Cafion to the mouth of the South Arkansas 
River, below Salida. Coues. 


g2 


dip cael 


Se OR A ie a ew Dear 


ee a ae 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


horses and carry the baggage at several places. 
Distance 1214 miles. 

28th December, Sunday: Marched over an 
open space and from the appearance before us 
concluded we were going out of the mountains, 
but at night encamped at the entrance of the 
most perpendicular precipices on both sides, 
through which the river ran and our course lay. 
Distance sixteen miles. 

29th December, Monday: Marched, but ow- 
ing to the extreme ruggedness of the road 
made but five miles. Saw one of a new species 
of animals on the mountain. Ascended it to 
kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the im- 
possibility of getting along with the horses, 
made one sled, which with the men of three 
horses, carries their load.! 

30th December, Tuesday: Marched, but at 
half past one o’clock were obliged to halt and 
send back for the sled loads, as they [the men] 
had broken it and could not proceed, owing 
to the waters running over the ice. Distance 
eight miles. Crossed our horses twice on the ice. 

31st December, Wednesday: Marched; had 
frequently to cross the river on the ice; [the] 
horses falling down, we were obliged to pull 
them over on the ice. The river turned so much 
to the north as almost induced us to believe it 
was the Arkansaw. Distance 1034 miles.? 


1 That is, the men dragged the loads of three horses 
on the sled. 
* This camp was in the vicinity of Spikebuck. Coues. 


93 


Zebulon FA. Pike 


1st January, 1807, Thursday: The Doctor 
and one man marched early, in order to precede 
the party until they should kill a supply of 
provisions. We had great difficulty in getting 
our horses along, some of the poor animals 
having nearly killed themselves falling on the 
ice. Found on the way one of the mountain 
rams which the Doctor and Brown had killed 
and left in the road. Skinned it, with horns, 
etc. At night ascended a mountain and dis- 
covered a prairie ahead about eight miles, the 
news of which gave great joy to the party. 
2d January, Friday: Labored all day, but 
made only one mile, many of our horses much 
wounded in falling on the rocks. Provision|s] 
growing short, left Stout and Miller with two 
loads to come on with a sled on the ice, which 
was on the water in some of the coves. Finding 
it almost impossible to proceed any farther with 
the horses by the bed of the river, |we] ascended 
the mountain and immediately after were again 
obliged to descend an almost perpendicular 
side of the mountain, in effecting which one 
‘horse fell down the precipice and bruised him- 
self so miserably that I conceived it mercy to 
cause the poor animal to be shot. Many others 
were nearly killed with falls received. Left 
two more men with loads, and tools to make 
sleds. The two men we had left in the morning 
had passed us. 
3d January, Saturday: Left two more men 
to make sleds and come on. We pursued the 


94 


Re Te a eT eae ee Wer oF ae Pees ee a 


Sa ee Oe SE eT oe eth ae 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


river, and with great difficulty made six miles 
by frequently cutting roads on the ice and 
covering it with earth, in order to go round prec- 
ipices, etc. The men left in the morning en- 
camped with us at night, but those of the day 
before, we saw nothing of. This day two of the 
horses became senseless from the bruises re- 
ceived on the rocks, and were obliged to be left. 

4th January, Sunday: We made the prairie 
about three o’clock, when I detached Mr. 
Baroney and two soldiers with the horses, in 
order to find some practicable way for them to 
get out of the mountains light. I then divided 
the others into two parties of two men each, to 
make sleds and bring on the baggage. I de- 
termined to continue down the river alone 
until I could kill some sustenance and find 
the two men who left us on the second Inst. or 
the Doctor and his companion, for we had no 
provision and everyone had then to depend on 
his own exertion for safety and subsistence. 
Thus we were divided into eight different 
parties, viz.: 1st, the Doctor and his compan- 
ion; 2d, the two men with the first sled; 3d, 
the interpreter and the two men with the 
horses; 4th, myself; 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th, 
two men each with sleds at different distances; 
all of whom, except the last, had orders, if they 
killed any game, to secure some part in a con- 
spicuous place for their companions in the rear. 
I marched on about five miles on the river, 
which was one continued fall through a narrow 


95 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


channel! and immense cliffs on both sides. 
Near night I came to a place where the rocks 
were perpendicular on both sides, and no ice 
(except a narrow border) on the water. I began 
to look about in order to discover which way 
the Doctor and his companion had managed, 
and to find what had become of the two lads 
with the first sled, when I discovered one of the 
latter climbing up the side of the rocks. I called 
to him [and] he and his companion immediately 
joined me. They said they had not known 
whether we were before or in the rear; that they 
had eaten nothing for the last two days; and that 
this night they had intended to have boiled a 
deer-skinto subsist on. Weat length discovered 
a narrow ravine, where was the trace of the 
Doctor and his companion. As the water had 
ran down it and frozen hard it was one con- 
tinued sheet of ice. We ascended it with the 
utmost difficulty and danger, loaded with the 
baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we 
found an encampment of the Doctor, and where 
they had killed a deer, but they had now [left] 
nomeat. Heafterwards informed me that they 
had left the greatest part of it hanging ona tree 
but supposed the birds had destroyed it. I left 
the boys to bring up the remainder of the bag- 
gage, and went out in order to kill some sub- 
sistence. Wounded a deer, but the darkness 
of the night approaching, could not find him, 


’ 1 Pike was in the Royal Gorge, the ‘‘grand cafion”’ of 
the Arkansas. 


96 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition - 


when I returned hungry, weary, and dry, and 
had only snow to supply the calls of nature. 
Distance eight miles. 

5th January, Monday: I went out in the 
morning to hunt whilst the two lads were bring- 
ing up some of their loads still left at the foot 
of the mountain. Wounded several deer but 
was surprised to find I killed none and on ex- 
amining my gun discovered her bent, owing, as 
I suppose, to some fall on the ice or rocks. 
Shortly after [this I] received a fall on the side of 
a hill which broke her off by the breach. This 
put me into despair, as I [had] calculated on it 
as my grandest resource for [the] great part of 
my party. Returned to my companions sorely 
fatigued and hungry. I then took a double- 
barrel gun and left them, with assurances that 
the first animal I killed, I would return with 
part for their relief. About ten o’clock rose 
[surmounted] the highest summit of the moun- 
tain,’ when the unbounded space of the prairies 
again presented themselves to my view and 
from some distant peaks I immediately recog- 
nized it to be the outlet of the Arkansaw, 
which we had left nearly one month since! 
This was a great mortification, but at the same 
time I consoled myself with the knowledge I 
had acquired of the source of the La Platte and 
Arkansaw rivers, with the river to the north- 
west, supposed to be the Pierre Jaun,? which 


1Noonan Mountain. Coues. 
2 The Yellowstone, which was frequently called Roche 
Jaune. Pike was, of course, mistaken in thisidentification. 


97 


Zebulon HH. Pike 


scarcely any person but a madman would ever 
purposely attempt to trace any farther than 
the entrance of those mountains, which had 
hitherto secured their sources from the scruti- 
nizing eye of civilized man. 

I arrived at the foot of the mountain and 
bank of the river in the afternoon and at the 
same time discovered, on the other shore, 
Baroney with the horses. They had found 
quite an eligible pass and had killed one buffalo 
and some deer. We proceeded to our old camp,’ 
which we had left the tenth of December, and 
reoccupied it. Saw the traces of the Doctor 
and his companion, but could not discover their 
retreat. 

This was my birthday and most fervently 
did I hope never to pass another so miserably. 
Distance seven miles. Fired a gun off as a 
signal for the Doctor. 

6th January, Tuesday: Dispatched the two 
soldiers back with some provision[s] to meet the 
first lads and assist them on, and the interpre- 
ter[out]hunting. About eight o’clock the Doc- 
tor came in, having seen some of the men. He 
had been confined to the camp for one or two 
days by a vertigo which proceeded from some 
berries he had eaten on the mountains. His 
companion brought down six deer, which they 
had at theircamp. Thus we again began to be 
out of danger of starving. In the afternoon 
some of the men arrived, and part were imme- 

1QOn the site of Cafion City. 


98 


“it ie cites leet 


at ie 


eee ee ee ee 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


diately returned with provisions, etc. Killed 
three deer. 

7th January, Wednesday: Sent more men 
back to assist in the rear and to carry the poor 
fellows provisions; at the same time kept 
Baroney and one man hunting. Killed three 
deer. 

dth January, Thursday: Some of the dif- 
ferent parties arrived. Put one man to stocking 
my rifle; others sent back to assist up the rear. 
Killed two deer. 

oth January, Friday: The whole party was 
once more joined together, when we felt com- 
paratively happy, notwithstanding the great 
mortification I experienced at having been so 
egregiously deceived as to the Red River. I 
now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, 
as any idea of services at that time from my 
horses was entirely preposterous. Thus, after 
various plans formed and rejected, and the 
most mature deliberation, I determined to 
build a small place for defense and deposit and 
leave part of the baggage, horses, my interpre- 
ter, and one man, and with the balance, our 
packs of Indian presents, ammunition, tools, 
etc., on our backs cross the mountains on foot, 
find the Red River, and then send back a party 
to conduct their horses and baggage by the 
most eligible route we could discover, by which 
time the horses would be so recovered as to be 
able to endure the fatigues of the march. In 
consequence of this determination some were 


99 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


put to constructing the blockhouses, some to 
hunting, some to taking care of horses, etc., 
etc. I, myself, made preparations to pursue a 
course of observations which would enable me 
to ascertain the latitude and longitude of that 
situation, which I conceived to be an impor- 
tant one. Killed three deer. 

roth January, Saturday: Killed five deer; 
took equal altitudes, angular distances of two 
stars, etc., but do not now recollect which. 
Killed three deer. 

r1th January, Sunday: Ascertained the 
latitude and took the angular distances of some 
stars. Killed four deer. 

rath January, Monday: Preparing the bag- 
gage for a march by separating it, etc. Obser- 
vations continued. 

13th January, Tuesday: Weighed out each 
man’s pack. This day I obtained the angle 
between the sun and moon, which I conceived 
the most correct way I possessed of ascertaining 
the longitude, as an immersion of Jupiter’s 
satellites could not now be obtained. Killed 
four deer. 

14th January, Wednesday: We marched our 
party, consisting of twelve soldiers, the Doctor, 
and myself, each of us carrying forty-five 
pounds and as much provision as he thought 
proper, which, with arms, etc., made, on an 
average, seventy pounds, leaving Baroney and 
one man, Patrick Smith. 

We crossed the first ridge, leaving the main 


I0o 


a 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


branch of the river to the north of us, and 
struck on the south fork,! on which we en- 
camped, intending to pursue it through the 
mountains, as its course was more southerly. 
The Doctor killed one deer. Distance thirteen 
miles. 

15th January, Thursday: Followed up this 
branch and passed the main ridge of what I 
term the Blue Mountains. Halted early. The 
Doctor, myself, and one hunter went out with 
our guns; each killed a deer and brought them 
into camp.” Distance nineteen miles. 

16th January, Friday: Marched up the creek 
all day. Encamped? early as it was snowing. I 
went out to hunt but killed nothing. Deer on 
the hill; the mountains lessening. Distance 
eighteen miles. 

17th January, Saturday: Marched about four 
miles when the great White Mountain‘ pre- 
sented itself before us, in sight of which we had 
been for more than one month, and through 
which we supposed lay the long sought Red 
River. We now left the creek’ on the north of 
us, and bore away more eastlerly] to a low 
place in the mountains. About sunset we came 
to the edge of a prairie which bounded the foot 

1 Grape Creek. Coues. 

2Probably in the vicinity of Soda Springs or Grape 
Station. Coues. 

3 About six or eight miles due north of Silver Cliff. 
Coues. 


4The Sangre de Cristo range. Coues. 
5 That is, Grape Creek. 


IOI 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


of the mountain, and as there was no wood or 
water where we were and the woods from the 
skirts of the mountains appeared to beat no great 
distance, I thought proper to march for it. In 
the middle of said prairie crossed the creek, 
which now bore east. Here we all got our feet 
wet. The night commenced extremely cold. 
When we halted at the woods, at eight o’clock, 
for encampment, after getting [our] fires made 
we discovered that the feet of nine of our men 
were frozen, and to add to the misfortune both 
of those whom we called hunters [were] among 
the number. This night we had no provision. 
Reaumur’s thermometer stood at 1844° below 
zero. Distance twenty-eight miles. 

18th January, Sunday: We started two of 
the men least injured. The Doctor and myself, 
who fortunately were untouched by the frost, 
also went out to hunt something to preserve 
existence. Near evening we wounded a buffalo 
with three balls but had the mortification to 
see him run off notwithstanding. We concluded 
it was useless to go home to add to the general 
gloom, and went amongst some rocks, where we 
encamped and sat up all night. From the in- 
tense cold it was impossible to sleep. Hungry 
and without cover. 

roth January, Monday: We again took the 
field and after crawling about one mile in the 
snow got to shoot eight times among a gang of 
buffalo and could plainly perceive two or three 
to be badly wounded, but by accident they 


TO2 


Ghe Southwestern Expedition 


took the wind of us and to our great mortifica- 
tion all were able to run off. By this time I had 
become extremely weak and faint, [it] being the 
fourth day since we had received sustenance, 
all of which we were marching hard and the 
last night had scarcely closed our eyes to sleep. 
We were inclining our course to a point of 
woods, determined to remain absent and die by 
ourselves rather than to return to our camp and 
behold the misery of our poor lads, when we 
discovered a gang of buffalo coming along at 
some distance. With great exertions I made 
out to run and place myself behind some cedars 
and by the greatest of good luck the first shot 
stopped one, which we killed in three more 
shots, and by the dusk had cut each of us a 
heavy load with which we determined immedi- 
ately to proceed to the camp in order to relieve 
the anxiety of our men and carry the poor 
fellows some food. We arrived there about 
twelve o’clock, and when I threw my load 
down it was with difficulty I prevented myself 
from falling. I was attacked with a giddiness of 
the head, which lasted for some minutes. On 
the countenances of the men was not a frown, 
hor a desponding eye; all seemed happy to hail 
their officer and companions, yet not a mouth- 
ful had they eaten for four days. On demand- 
ing what were their thoughts, the sergeant 
replied [that] on the morrow the most robust 
had determined to set out in search of us, and 
not [to] return unless they found us or killed 


103 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


something to preserve the life of their starving 
companions. 

20th January, Tuesday: The Doctor and all 
the men [who were] able to march returned to 
the buffalo to bring in the balance of the meat. 
On examining the feet of those who were frozen 
we found it impossible for two of them to 
proceed, and two others [could] only [proceed] 
without loads by the help of astick. One of the 
former was my waiter, a promising young lad 
of twenty, whose feet were so badly frozen as to 
present every probability of losing them. 

The Doctor and party returned towards 
evening loaded with the buffalo meat. 

21st January, Wednesday: This day [we] 
separated the four loads we intended to leave 
and took them at some distance from the camp, 
where we secured them. I went up to the foot 
of the mountain to see what prospect there was 
of being able to cross it,but had not more than 
fairly arrived at its base when I found the 
snow four or five feet deep. This obliged me to 
determine to proceed and cétoyer! the moun- 
tain to the south, where it appeared lower, and 
until we found a place where we could cross. 

22d January, Thursday: I furnished the two 
poor lads who were to remain with ammunition 
and made use of every argument in my power 
to encourage them to have fortitude to resist 
their fate, and gave them assurance of my 
sending relief as soon as possible. 

1 That is, follow along its base. 


104 


ao = 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


We parted, but not without tears. We pur- 
sued our march, taking merely sufficient pro- 
visions for one meal in order to leave as much 
as possible for the two poor fellows who re- 
mained (who were John Sparks and Thomas 
Dougherty). We went on eight miles and en- 
camped on a little creek which came down from 
the mountains. At three o’clock went out to 
hunt but killed nothing. Little snow. 

23d January, Friday: After showing the 
sergeant a point to steer for, the Doctor and 
myself proceeded on ahead in hopes to kill 
something, as we were again without victuals. 
About one o’clock it commenced snowing very 
hard. We retreated to a small copse of pine 
where we constructed a camp to shelter us, and 
as it was time the party should arrive we 
sallied forth to search [for] them. We separated 
and had not marched more than one or two 
miles when I found it impossible to keep any 
course without the compass continually in my 
hand, and then not being able to see more than 
ten yards. I began to perceive the difficulty 
even of finding the way back to our camp and I 
can scarcely conceive a more dreadful idea than 
remaining on the wild, where inevitable death 
must have ensued. It was with great pleasure 
I again reached the camp, where I found the 
Doctor had arrived before me. We lay down 
and strove to dissipate the idea of hunger and 
our misery by the thoughts of our far-distant 
homes and relatives. Distance eight miles. 


105 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


24th January, Saturday: We sallied out in 
the morning and shortly after perceived our 
little band marching through the snow, about 
two and a half feet deep, silent and with down- 
cast countenances. We joined them and learned 
that they, finding the snow to fall so thickly 
that it was impossible to proceed, had en- 
camped about one o’clock the preceding day. 
As I found all the buffalo had quit the plains 
I determined to attempt the traverse of the 
mountain, in which we persevered until the 
snow became so deep [that] it was impossible to 
proceed, when I again turned my face to the 
plain and for the first time in the voyage found 
myself discouraged, and [for] the first time I 
heard a man express himself in a seditious 
manner. He exclaimed that it was more than 
human nature could bear to march three days 
without sustenance through snows three feet 
deep and carry burdens only fit for horses, 
eich ;ete, 

As I knew very well the fidelity and attach- 
ment of the majority of the men, and even of 
this poor fellow (only he could not endure 
fasting) and that it was in my power to chas- 
tise him when I thought proper, I passed it un- 
noticed for the moment, determined to notice 
it at a more auspicious time. We dragged our 
weary and emaciated limbs along until about 
to o'clock. The Doctor and myself, who were 
in advance, discovered some buffalo on the 
plain, when we left our loads on the snow and 


106 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


gave orders to proceed to the nearest woods to 
encamp. We went in pursuit of the buffalo, 
which were on the move. 

The Doctor, who was then less reduced than 
myself, ran and got behind a hill and shot 
one down, which stopped the remainder. We 
crawled up to the dead one and shot from him 
as many as twelve or fourteen times among the 
gang, when they removed out of sight. We 
then proceeded to butcher the one we had shot 
and after procuring each of us a load of the 
meat we marched for the camp, the smoke of 
which was in view. We arrived at the camp,} 
to the great joy of our brave lads, who im- 
mediately feasted sumptuously. After our re- 
past I sent for the lad who had presumed to 
speak discontentedly in the course of the day, 
and addressed him to the following effect: 
“Brown, you this day presumed to make use of 
language which was seditious and mutinous. 
I then passed it over, pitying your situation 
and attributing it to your distress, rather than 
your inclination to sow discontent amongst our 
party. Had I reserved provisions for ourselves 
whilst you were starving, had we been marching 
along light and at our ease whilst you were 
weighed down with your burden, then you 
would have had some pretext for your observa- 
tions. But when we were equally hungry, 
weary, emaciated, and charged with burden 
which I believe my natural strength is less able 

1 Not far from Bradford, Huerfano County. Coues. 


107 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


to bear than any man’s in the party, when we 
were always foremost in breaking the road, rec- 
onnoitering, and the fatigues of the chase, it 
was the height of ingratitude in you to let an 
expression escape which was indicative of dis- 
content. Your ready compliance and firm per- 
severance I had reason to expect, as the leader 
of men and my companions in miseries and 
dangers. But your duty as a soldier called on 
your obedience to your officer and a prohibi- 
tion of such language, which for this time, I 
will pardon, but [I] assure you, should it ever be 
repeated, by instant death I will revenge your 
ingratitude and punish your disobedience. I 
take this opportunity, likewise, to assure you 
soldiers generally of my thanks for [the] obe- 
dience, perseverance, and ready contempt of 
every danger which you have generally evinced. 
I assure you nothing shall be wanting on my 
part to procure you the rewards of our govern- 
ment and [the] gratitude of your countrymen.” 

They all appeared very much affected, and 
retired with assurances of perseverance in duty, 
etc. Distance nine miles. 

25th January, Sunday: I determined never 
again to march with so little provision on hand, 
as had the storm continued one day longer the 
animals would have continued in the mountains 
and we should have become so weak as not to 
be able to hunt, and of course have perished. 

The Doctor went out with the boys and they 
secured three of the buffalo. We commenced 


108 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


bringing in the meat, at which we continued all 
day. 

26th January, Monday: Got in all the meat 
and dried it on a scaffold, intending to take as 
much as possible along and leave one of my 
frozen lads with the balance as a deposit for 
the parties who might return for their baggage, 
etc., on their way to Baroney’s camp. 

27th January, Tuesday: We marched, deter- 
mining to cross the mountains, leaving Me- 
naugh encamped with our deposit. After a bad 
day’s march, through snows some places three 
feet deep, we struck on a brook which led west, 
which I followed down and shortly came to 
a small run, running west, which we hailed 
with fervency as the waters of the Red River.! 
Saw some sign of elk. Distance fourteen miles. 

28th January, Wednesday: Followed down 
the ravine and discovered after some time that 
there had been a road cut out, and on many 
trees were various hieroglyphics painted. After 
marching some miles we discovered through 
the lengthy vista at a distance another chain of 
mountains and nearer by at the foot of the 
White Mountains, which we were then descend- 
ing, sandy hills. We marched on [to] the outlet 
of the mountains and left the sandy desert to our 
right; kept down between it and the mountains. 
When we encamped I ascended one of the 
largest hills of sand and with my glass could 


1 The party had crossed the Sangre de Cristo Range 
and entered upon the valley of the Rio Grande River. 


109 


Zebulon HH. Pike 


discover a large river? flowing nearly north by 
west and south by east through the plain! 
which came out of the third chain of mountains 
about N. 75° W. The prairie between the two 
mountains bore nearly north and south. I 
returned to camp? with the news of my dis- 
covery. The sand hills extended up and down 
at the foot of the White Mountains about 15 
miles, and appeared to be about five miles in 
width. Their appearance was exactly that of 
the sea in a storm, except as to color, not the 
least sign of vegetation existing thereon. Dis- 
tance fifteen miles. 

20th January, Thursday: Finding the dis- 
tance too great to attempt crossing immedi- 
ately to the river in a direct line, we marched 
obliquely to a copse of woods which made down 
a considerable distance from the mountains. 
Distance seventeen miles. Saw sign of horses. 

30th January, Friday: We marched hard 
and arrived in the evening on the banks (then 
supposed Red River) of the Rio del Norte.’ 
Distance twenty-four miles. 

31st January, Saturday: As there was no 
timber here we determined on descending until 
we found timber, in order to make transports 
to descend the river with, where we might es- 
tablish a position that four or five might defend 


1The Rio Grande River and the San Luis Valley. 
Coues. 

2Near the town of Montvill. Coues. 

3 At, or near, the present town of Alamosa. Coues. 


IIo 


Ghe Douthivestern Expedition 


against the insolence, cupidity, and barbarity 
of the savages whilst the others returned to as- 
sist on the poor fellows who were left behind at 
different points. We descended thirteen miles, 
when we met a large west branch emptying 
into the main stream, up which about five 
miles we took up our station.! Killed one deer. 
Distance eighteen miles. 

1st February, Sunday: Laid out the place 
for our works and went out hunting. 

2d February, Monday: The Doctor and my- 
self went out to hunt and with great difficulty 
by night killed one deer at the distance of seven 
or eight miles from camp, which we carried in. 

3d February, Tuesday: Spent in reading, etc. 

4th February, Wednesday: Went out hunting 
but could not kill anything. One of my men 
killed a deer. 

5th February, Thursday: The Doctor and 
myself went out to hunt and after chasing some 
deer for several hours without success we as- 
cended a high hill which lay south of our camp, 
from whence we had a view of all the prairie 
and rivers to the north of us. It was at the 
same time one of the most sublime and beauti- 
ful inland prospects ever presented to the eyes 
of man. The prairie, lying nearly north and 
south, was probably sixty miles by forty-five. 


1The site of this camp and the fortification which 
Pike proceeded to construct, has been identified as on 
the north bank of the Rio Conejos, about five miles 
above its junction with the Rio Grande, near a warm 
spring. Coues. 
III 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


The main river, bursting out of the western 
mountain and meeting from the northeast a 
large branch! which divides the chain of moun- 
tains, proceeds down the prairie, making many 
large and beautiful islands, one of which I 
judge contains 100,000 acres of land, all mea- 
dow ground, covered with innumerable herds 
of deer. About six miles from the mountains, 
which cross the prairie at the south end, a 
branch of twelve steps wide pays its tribute to 
the main stream from the west. Course due 
W. 12° N. 75° W. 6°. Four miles below is a 
stream of the same size, which enters on the 
east; its general course is N. 65° E., up which 
was a large road. From the entrance of this 
was about. three miles down to the junction 
of the west fork,” which waters the foot of the 
hill on the north, whilst the main river wound 
along in meanders on the east. In short, this 
view combined the sublime and beautiful. The 
great and lofty mountains, covered with eternal 
snows, seemed to surround the luxuriant vale, 
crowned with perennial flowers, like a terres- | 
trial paradise shut out from the view of man. 

6th February, Friday: The Doctor, having 
some pecuniary demands in the province of 
New Mexico, conceived this to be the most 
eligible point for him to go in and return pre- 
vious to all my party having joined me from 
the Arkansaw, and that I was prepared to 


1 San Luis Creek. Coues. 
2 That is, the Rio Conejos. 


II2 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


descend to Natchitoches. He therefore this 
day made his preparations for marching to- 
morrow. I went out hunting and killed a deer 
at three miles’ distance, which with great 
difficulty I brought in whole. 

We continued to go on with the works of our 
stockade or breastwork, which was situated on 
the north bank of the west branch, about five 
miles from its junction with the main river, 
and was on a strong plan. 

7th February, Saturday: The Doctor marched 
alone for Santa Fe and as it was uncertain 
whether this gentleman would ever join me 
again, I at that time committed the following 
testimonial of respect for his good qualities to 
paper, which I do not at this time feel any dis- 
position to efface: He has had the benefit of 
a liberal education, without having spent his 
time as too many of our gentlemen do in col- 
leges, viz., in skimming on the surfaces of 
sciences without ever endeavoring to make 
themselves masters of the solid foundations. 
Robinson studied and reasoned. With these 
qualifications he possessed a liberality of mind 
too great ever to reject an hypothesis because 
it was not agreeable to the dogmas of the school, 
or to adopt it because it had all the éclat of 
novelty. His soul could conceive great actions 
and his hand was ready to achieve them. In 
short, it may truly be said that nothing was 
above his genius, nor anything so minute that 
he conceived it entirely unworthy of consid- 


1I3 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


eration. As a gentleman and companion in 
dangers, difficulties, and hardships I, in par- 
ticular, and the expedition generally, owe much 
to his exertions. In the evening I dispatched 
Corporal Jackson with four men to recross the 
mountains, in order to bring in the baggage 
left with the frozen lads and to see if they were 
yet able to come on. This detachment left me 
with four men only, two of whom had their 
feet frozen. They were employed in finishing 
the stockade, and myself to support them by 
the chase. 

3th February, Sunday: Refreshing my mem- 
ory as to the French grammar, and overseeing 
the works. 

oth February, Monday: Hunting, etc. 

roth February, Tuesday: Read, and labored 
at our works. 

11th February, Wednesday: Hunting. Killed 
three deer. 

12th February, Thursday: Studying. 

13th February, Friday: Hunting. Killed two 
deer. 

14th February, Saturday: Crossed the river 
and examined the numerous springs which 
issued from the foot of the hill opposite to our 
camp, which were so strongly impregnated with 
mineral qualities as not only to keep clear of 
ice previous to their joining the main branch 
but to keep open the west fork until its junction 
with the main river and for a few miles after- 
wards, whilst all the other branches in the 


II4 


a on 


Che Douthiwestern Erpedition 


neighborhood were bound in the adamantine 
chains of winter. 

15th February, Sunday: Reading, etc. Works 
going on. 

16th February, Monday: I took one man and 
went out hunting. About six miles from the 
post shot and wounded a deer. Immediately 
afterwards [I] discovered two horsemen rising 
the summit of a hill, about half a mile to our 
right. As my orders were to avoid giving alarm 
or offense to the Spanish government of New 
Mexico I endeavored to avoid them at first, 
but when we attempted to retreat they pur- 
sued us at full charge, flourishing their lances, 
and when we advanced they would retire as 
fast as their horses could carry them. Seeing 
this, we got in [to] a small ravine in hopes to 
decoy them near enough to oblige them to come 
to a parley, which happened agreeably to our 
desires, as they came on hunting us with great 
caution. We suffered them to get within forty 
yards, where we had allured them, but [they] 
were about running off again when I ordered 
the soldier to lay down his arms and walk 
towards them, at the same time standing ready 
with my rifle to kill either who should lft an 
arm in a hostile manner. I then hollowed to 
them that we were Americans and friends, 
which were almost the only two words I knew 
in the Spanish language, when, with great 
signs of fear, they came up, and proved to bea 
Spanish dragoon and a civilized Indian, armed 


115 


Zebulon KA, Pike 


after their manner, of which we see a descrip- 
tion in the Essai Militaire. We were jealous 
of our arms on both sides, and acted with great 
precaution. They informed me that [this] was 
the fourth day since they had left Santa Fe; 
that Robinson had arrived there, and was 
received with great kindness by the governor. 
As I knew them to be spies I thought proper to 
inform them merely that I was about to de- 
scend the river to Natchitoches. We sat here 
on the ground a long time, and finding they 
were determined not to leave me, we rose and 
bade them adieu, but they demanded where 
our camp was; and finding they were not about 
to leave us, I thought it most proper to take 
them with me, thinking we were on Red River, 
and, of course, in the territory claimed by the 
United States. 

We took the road to my fort and as they 
were on horseback they traveled rather faster 
than myself. They were halted by the sentinel, 
and immediately retreated much surprised. 
When I came up I took them in, and then 
explained to them as well as possible my in- 
tentions of descending the river to Natchi- 
toches, but at the same time told them that if 
Governor Allencaster would send out an officer 
with an interpreter who spoke French or Eng- 
lish I would do myself the pleasure to give his 
Excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to 
my intentions in coming on his frontiers. They 
informed me that on the second day they would 


116 


Che Douthwestern Crpedition 


be in Santa Fe, but were careful never to sug- 
gest an idea of my being on the Rio del Norte.! 
As they concluded, I did not think as I spoke. 
They were very anxious to ascertain our num- 
bers, etc.; seeing only five men here, they could 
not believe we came without horses, etc. To 
this I did not think proper to give them any 
satisfaction, giving them to understand we were 
in many parties, etc. 

17th February, Tuesday: In the morning our 
two Spanish visitors departed after I had made 
them some trifling presents, with which they 
seemed highly delighted. After their departure 
we commenced working at our little work, as 
I thought it probable the governor might dis- 
pute my right to descend the Red River, and 
send out Indians, or some light party, to attack 
us. I therefore determined to be as much pre- 
pared to receive them as possible. This evening 
the corporal and three of the men arrived who 
had been sent back to the camp of the frozen 
lads. They informed me that two men would 
arrive the next day, one of whom was Me- 
naugh, who had been left alone on the twenty- 
seventh [of] January, but that the other two, 
Dougherty and Sparks, were unable to come. 
They said that they had hailed them with 
tears of joy, and were in despair when they 
again left them with the chance of never seeing 
them more. They sent on to me some of the 
bones taken out of their feet, and conjured me 

1'The Rio Grande. 


117 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


by all that was sacred not to leave them to 
perish far from the civilized world. Ah! little 
did they know my heart, if they could suspect 
me of conduct so ungenerous. No, before they 
should be left I would for months have carried 
the end of a litter in order to secure them the 
happiness of once more seeing their native 
homes and being received in the bosom of a 
grateful country. 

Thus those poor lads are to be invalids for 
life, made infirm at the commencement of man- 
hood and in the prime of their course, doomed 
to pass the remainder of their days in misery 
and want. For what is the pension? Not suf- 
ficient to buy a man his victuals! What man 
would even lose the smallest of his joints for 
such a trifling pittance? 

18th February, Wednesday: The other two 
boys arrived. In the evening I ordered the 
sergeant and one man to prepare to march to- 
morrow for the Arkansaw, where we had left 
our interpreter, horses, etc., to conduct them 
on, and on his return to bring the two lads who 
were still in the mountains. 

19th February, Thursday: Sergeant William 
EK. Meek marched with one man, whose name 
was Theodore Miller, and I took three other 
men to accompany him out some distance, in 
order to point out to him a pass in the moun- 
tain which I conceived more eligible for horses 
than the one [by which] we had come. I must 
[here] remark the effect of habit, discipline, and 


118 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


example in two soldiers soliciting a command of 
more than 180 miles over two ridges of moun- 
tains covered with snow [and] inhabited by 
bands of unknown savages in the interest of 
a nation with whom we were not on the best 
understanding; and to perform this journey 
each had about ten pounds of venison. Only 
let me ask, what would our soldiers generally 
think on being ordered on such a tour thus 
equipped? Yet those men volunteered it, with 
others, and were chosen, for which they thought 
themselves highly honored. We accompanied 
them about six miles [and] pointed out the pass 
alluded to in a particular manner, but the 
corporal reported that the new one which I 
obliged him to take was impassable, [he] having 
been three days in snows nearly middle deep. 

We then separated and, having killed a deer, 
[I] sent one of the men back to the fort with it. 
With the other two I kept on my exploring 
trip down the river on the east side, at some 
leagues from its banks, intending to return up 
it. At nine o’clock at night encamped on a 
small creek which emptied into the river by 
nearly a due east course. 

20th February, Friday: We marched down 
the river for a few hours, but seeing no fresh 
sign of persons or any other object to attract 
our attention took up our route for the fort. 
Discovered the sign of horses and men on the 
shore. We arrived after night and found all 
well. 


IIQ 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


21st February, Saturday: As I was suspicious 
that possibly some party of Indians might be 
harboring round, I gave particular orders to 
my men, if they discovered any people to 
endeavor to retreat- undiscovered but if not 
[successful] never to run, and not to suffer 
themselves to be disarmed or taken prisoners 
but conduct whatever party discovered them, 
if they could not escape, to the fort. 

22d February, Sunday: As I began to think 
it was time we received a visit from the Span- 
iards or their emissaries, I established a look- 
out guard on the top of a hill all day and at 
night a sentinel in a bastion on the land side. 
Studying, reading, etc. Working at our ditch 
to bring the river round the works. 

23d February, Monday: Reading, writing, 
etc., the men at their usual work, etc. 

24th February, Tuesday: ‘Took one man with 
me and went out on the Spanish road hunting. 
Killed one deer and wounded several others, 
and as we were a great distance from the fort 
we encamped near the road all night. Saw 
several signs of horses. 

25th February, Wednesday: Killed two more 
deer, when we marched for our post. Took 
all three of the deer with us and arrived about 
nine o’clock at night, as much fatigued, etc., as 
ever I was in my life. Our arrival dissipated 
the anxiety of the men, who began to be appre- 
hensive we were taken or killed by some of the 
savages. 


I20 


Che Aouthwestern ECrpedition 


26th February, Thursday: In the morning 
was apprised by the report of a gun from my 
lookout guard of the approach of strangers. 
Immediately after, two Frenchmen arrived. 
My sentinel halted them and ordered them 
to be admitted after some questions. They 
informed me that his excellency, Governor 
Allencaster, had heard it was the intention of 
the Utah Indians to attack me, had detached 
an officer with fifty dragoons to come out and 
protect me, and that they would be here in two 
days. To this I made no reply; but shortly 
after the party came in sight to the number of, 
I afterwards learned, fifty-nine dragoons and 
fifty mounted militia of the province, armed in 
the same manner, viz.: lances, escopates,! and 
pistols. My sentinel halted them at the dis- 
tance of about fifty yards. I had the works 
manned. I thought it most proper to send out 
the two Frenchmen to inform the commanding 
officer that it was my request he should leave 
his party in a small copse of woods where he 
[had] halted, and that I would meet him myself 
in the prairie, in which our work was situated. 
This I did, with my sword on me only, when 
I was introduced to Don Ignatio Saltelo and 
Don Bartholemew Fernandez, two lieutenants, 
the former the commandant of the party. I 
gave them an invitation to enter the works, 
but requested the troops might remain where 
they were. This was complied with, but when 

1A carbine or short rifle. 


I21 


Zebulon FA. Pike 


they came round and discovered that to enter 
they were obliged to crawl on their bellies over 
a small drawbridge they appeared astonished, 
but entered without further hesitation. 

We first breakfasted on some deer [meat], 
goose, and some biscuit which the civilized 
Indian who came out as a spy had brought me. 
After breakfast the commanding officer ad- 
dressed me as follows: “Sir, the governor of 
New Mexico, being informed you had missed 
your route, ordered me to offer you in his name 
mules, horses, money, or whatever you may 
stand in need of to conduct you to the head of 
Red River, as from Santa Fe to where it is 
sometimes navigable is eight days’ journey 
and we have guides and the routes of the 
traders to conduct us.” 

“What’’, said I, interrupting him, “is not 
this the Red River?” 

“No Sir! the Rio del Norte.” 

I immediately ordered my flag to be taken 
down and rolled up, feeling how sensibly I had 
committed myself in entering their territory, 
and was conscious that they must have positive 
orders to take me in. 

He now added that he had provided one 
hundred mules and horses to take in my party 
and baggage, and how anxious his Excellency 
was to see me at Santa Fe. I stated to him the 
absence of my sergeant [and] the situation of 
the balance of the party, and that my orders 
would not justify my entering into the Spanish 


I22 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


territory. He urged still further, until I began 
to feel myself a little heated in the argument 
and told him in a peremptory style I would not 
go until the arrival of my sergeant with the 
balance of the party. He replied that there 
was not the least restraint to be used, only 
that it was necessary his Excellency should 
receive an explanation of my business on his 
frontier, but that I could go now or on the 
arrival of my party; but that if none went in at 
present he should be obliged to send in for pro- 
visions, but that if I would now march he would 
leave an Indian interpreter and an escort of 
dragoons to conduct the sergeant into Santa Fe. 
His mildness induced me to tell him that I 
would march, but must leave two men in order 
to meet the sergeant and party to instruct him 
as to coming in, as he never would come with- 
out a fight if not ordered. 

I was induced to consent to the measure 
by [the] conviction that the officer had positive 
orders to bring me in, and as I had no orders 
to commit hostilities, and, indeed, had com- 
mitted myself, although innocently, by violat- 
ing their territory, I conceived it would appear 
better to show a will to come to an explanation 
than to be [in] any way constrained. Yet my 
situation was so eligible and I could so easily 
have put them at defiance that it was with 
great reluctance I suffered all our labor to be 
lost without once trying the efficacy of it. 
My compliance seemed to spread general joy 


123 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


through their party as soon as it was com- 
municated, but it appeared to be different with 
my men, who wished to have a little dust, 
as they expressed themselves, and were like- 
wise fearful of treachery. 

My determination being once taken, I gave 
permission for the Spanish lieutenant’s men to 
come to the outside of the works and [to] some 
of mine to go out and see them, when the hos- 
pitality and goodness of the Creoles and Me- 
tifs began to manifest itself by their producing 
their provision and giving it to my men, cover- 
ing them with their blankets, etc. 

After writing orders to my sergeant and 
leaving them with my corporal and one private, 
who were to remain, we sallied forth, mounted 
our horses, and went up the river about twelve 
miles to a place where the Spanish officers had 
made a camp deposit,' from whence we sent 
down mules for our baggage, etc. 


1 Near the present town of Conejos. Coues. 


124 


Part II 
Through the Provinces of 
New Spain 


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Che Southwestern Expedition 
of Zebulon HH. Pike 


27th February, Friday: In the morning I 
discovered the Spanish lieutenant was writing 
letters addressed to the governor and others, 
on which I demanded if he was not going on 
with me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused 
and said ‘‘ No”: that his orders were so positive 
as to the safe conduct and protection of my men 
that he dare not go and leave any behind; that 
his companion would accompany me to Santa 
Fe with fifty men whilst he with the others 
would wait for the sergeant and his party. I 
replied that he had deceived me and had not 
acted with candor, but that it was now too late 
for me to remedy the evil. 

We marched about eleven o’clock, ascending 
the Rio del Norte? five miles more, S. 60° W., 
when we went round through a chain of hills 
and bore off to the south. We proceeded on 
nine miles farther, when we crossed the main 
branch of that stream, which was now bearing 
nearly west towards the main chain of the third 
chain of mountains.? We encamped on the op- 
posite side. Distance fifteen miles. Intensely 


1The Rio Conejos River. Coues. 
?The San Juan Range. Coues. 


127 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


cold. Obliged to stop frequently and make 
fires. Snow deep. 

28th February, Saturday: We marched late. 
One of the Frenchmen informed me that the 
expedition which had been at the Pawnees had 
descended the Red River 233 leagues and from 
thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in 
search of my party. This was afterwards con- 
firmed by the gentleman who commanded the 
troops. He then expressed great regret at my 
misfortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, 
and offered his services in secreting papers, etc. 
I took him at his word, and for my amusement 
I thought I would try him and give him a leaf 
or two of my journal, copied, which mentioned 
the time of my sailing from Belle Fontaine and 
our force. This I charged him to guard very 
carefully and give to me after the investigation 
of my papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw a 
herd of wild horses. The Spaniards pursued 
them and caught two colts, one of which the 
Indians killed and ate: The other was let go. 
We pursued our journey over some hills where 
the snow was very deep, and encamped at last 
on the top of a pretty high hill among some 
pines.! Distance thirty-six miles. We left the 
river, which in general ran about six, eight, and 
ten miles to the left, or east, of us. Saw great 
sign of elk. 

1st March, Sunday: We marched early, and 
although we rode very hard we only got to the 

1Near the modern station of Tres Piedras. Coues. 


128 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


village of L’eau Chaud or Warm Spring! some- 
time in the afternoon, which was about forty- 
five miles. The difference of climate was 
astonishing; after we left the hills and deep 
snows we found ourselves on plains where 
there was no snow, and where vegetation was 
sprouting. 

The village of the Warm Springs, or Aqua 
Caliente in their language, is situated on the 
eastern branch of a creek of that name, and at 
a distance presents to the eye a square en- 
closure of mud walls, the houses forming the 
wall. They are flat on top, or with extremely 
little ascent on one side, where there are spouts 
to carry off the water of the melting snow and 
rain when it falls, which we were informed had 
been but once in two years, previous to our 
entering the country. 

Inside of the inclosure were the different 
streets of houses of the same fashion, all of one 
story. The doors were narrow, the windows 
small, and in one or two houses there were talc 
lights. This village had a mill near it, situated 
on the little creek, which made very good flour. 
The population consisted of civilized Indians, 
but much mixed blood. 

Here we had a dance which is called the 
fandango, but there was one which was copied 
from the Mexicans and is now danced in the 
first societies of New Spain, and has even been 
introduced at the court of Madrid. 

1 Modern Ojo Caliente. Coues. 


129 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


This village may contain 500 souls. The 
greatest natural curiosity is the warm springs, 
which are two in number, about ten yards 
apart, and each affords sufficient water for a 
mill seat. They appeared to be impregnated 
with copper and were more than 33° above 
blood heat. From this village the Tetaus drove 
off 2,000 horses at one time, when at war with 
the Spaniards. 

2d March, Monday: We marched late and 
passed several little mud-walled villages and 
settlements, all of which had round mud towers 
of the ancient shape and construction to de- 
fend the inhabitants from the intrusions of the 
savages. I was this day shown the ruins of 
several old villages which had been taken and 
destroyed by the Tetaus. We were frequently 
stopped by the women, who invited us into 
their houses to eat, and in every place where we 
halted a moment there was a contest who 
should be our hosts. My poor lads who had 
been frozen were conducted home by old men, 
who would cause their daughters to dress their 
feet, provide their victuals and drink, and at 
night gave them the best bed in the house. In 
short, all their conduct brought to my recollec- 
tion the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, 
and caused me to sigh with regret at the cor- 
ruption of that noble principle by the polish of 
modern ages. 

We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente 
about twelve miles, where it joined the river of 


130 


. 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


Conejos! from the west. This river was about 
thirty yards wide and was settled above its 
junction with the Aqua Caliente twelve miles, 
as the latter was its whole course from the 
village of that name. From where they form a 
junction, it was about fifteen miles to the Rio 
del Norte, on the eastern [bank] of which was 
situated the village of St. John’s, which was the 
_ residence of the president priest of the province 
who had resided in it forty years. 

The housetops of the village of St. John’s 
were crowded, as well as the streets, when we 
entered, and at the door of the public quarters 
we were met by the president priest. When 
my companion who commanded the escort re- 
ceived him in a street and embraced him, all 
the poor creatures who stood round strove to 
kiss the ring or hand of the holy father; for 
myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My 
men were conducted into the quarters and I 
went to the house of the priest, where we were 
treated with politeness. He offered us coffee, 
chocolate, or whatever we thought proper, and 
desired me to consider myself at home in his 
house. 

As I was going, some time after, to the quar- 
ters of my men, I was addressed at the door by 
a man in broken English: “ My friend, I am 
very sorry tosee youhere. Weareall prisoners 
in this country and can never return. I have 
been a prisoner for nearly three years and 

1 The Rio Chama. Coues. 


131 


- 


Zebulon PM, Pike 


cannot get out.” I replied that as for his being 
a prisoner, it must be for some crime, that with 
respect to myself I felt no apprehension, and 
requested him to speak French, as I could 
hardly understand his English; when he began 
to demand of me so many different questions 
on the mode of my getting into the country, my 
intention, etc., that by the time I arrived in the 
room of: my men I was perfectly satisfied of 
his having been ordered by some person to en- 
deavor to obtain some confession or acknowl- 
edgment of sinister designs in my having ap- 
peared on the frontiers, and some confidential 
communications which might implicate me. 
As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, 
I ordered my men to shut and fasten the door. 
I then told him that I believed him to be an 
emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or 
some person, to endeavor to betray me, that 
all men of that description were scoundrels, 
and never should escape punishment whilst I 
possessed the power to chastise them, im- 
mediately ordering my men to seize him, and 
cautioning him at the same time that if he cried 
out or made the least resistance I would be 
obliged to make use of the saber which I had 
in my hand; on which he was so much alarmed 
that he begged me for God’s sake not to injure 
him, [saying] that he had been ordered by the 
governor to meet me and endeavor to trace 
out what and who I was and what were my de- 
signs, by endeavoring to produce a confidence 


132 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


in him by his exclaiming against the Spaniards 
and complaining of the tyranny which they 
had exercised towards him. After this confes- 
sion I ordered my men to release him, and told 
him that I looked upon him as too contemptible 
for further notice, but that he might tell the 
governor the next time he employed emissaries 
to choose those of more abilities and sense, and 
that I questioned if his Excellency would find 
the sifting of us an easy task. 

This man’s name was Baptiste Lalande. He 
had come from the Illinois to the Pawnees to 
trade with goods furnished him by William 
Morrison,! a gentleman of the Illinois, and 
from thence to New Mexico with the goods 
which he had procured and [had] established 
himself, and was the same man on whom Robin- 
son had a claim. He returned into the priest’s 
house with me and instead of making any com- 
plaint he, in reply to their inquiries of who I 
was, etc., informed them that when he left 
Louisiana I was governor of the Illinois. This, 
I presume, he took for granted from my hav- 
ing commanded for some time the post of 


1William Morrison settled at Kaskaskia in 1790. 
He was a member of the firm of Bryant and Morrison, 
his partner being his uncle, Guy Bryant, a resident of 
Philadelphia. Morrison conducted an extensive trade, 
being denominated by one authority the leading mer- 
chant of the Mississippi Valley. He became wealthy, 
and in 1801 built a stone residence at Kaskaskia which 
was furnished on a scale of luxury unequaled in the 
Illinois country. He died in April, 1837. 


133 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


Kaskaskia, the first military post the United 
States had established in that country since the 
peace. However, the report served but to add 
to the respect with which my companion and 
host treated me. 

Having had at this place the first good meal, 
wine, etc., with the heat of the house and per- 
haps rather an immoderate use of the refresh- 
ments allowed me produced an attack of some- 
thing like the cholera morbus, which alarmed 
me considerably and made me determine to 
be more abstemious in future. 

This father was a great naturalist, or rather 
florist. He had large collections of flowers, 
plants, etc., and several works on his favorite 
studies, the margin and bottoms of which were 
filled with his notes in the Castilian language. 
As I neither had a natural turn for botany 
sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much 
with the Latin nor understood the Castilian, I 
enjoyed but little of his lecture, which he con- 
tinued to give me nearly for two hours on those 
subjects, but by the exercise of a small degree 
of patience I entirely acquired the esteem of 
this worthy father, he calling me his son and 
lamenting extremely that my fate had not 
made me one of the holy Catholic church.! 

1In an appendix to the journal, as printed in the 
original edition, Pike supplies the following additional 
information: The father being informed that I had 
some astronomical instruments with me, expressed a 


desire to see them. All that I had here was my sextant 
and a large glass which magnified considerably, cal- 


134 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


St. John’s was inclosed with a mud wall and 
probably contained 1,000 souls. Its population 
consisted principally of civilized Indians, as 
indeed does [the population of] all the villages of 
New Mexico, the whites not forming the one- 
twentieth part of the inhabitants. 

3d March, Tuesday: We marched after 
breakfast, B. Lalande accompanying us, and 
in about six miles came to a village, where I 
suppose there were more than 2,000 souls. Here 
we halted at the house of the priest, who, under- 
standing that I would not kiss his hand, would 
not present it to me. The conduct and be- 
havior of a young priest who came in was such 
as in our country would have been amply 
sufficient forever to have banished him from 


culated for the day or night, the remainder of my in- 
struments being with my sergeant and party. On ex- 
amining the sextant and showing him the effect of it in 
the reflection of the sun he appeared more surprised, as 
well as hundreds who surrounded us, at the effect of the 
instrument, than any nation of savages I was ever 
among, and here an idea struck me as extraordinary, 
how a man who appeared to be perfect master of the 
ancient languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and chemist 
should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection and the 
first principles of mathematics; but my friend explained 
that enigma by informing me of the care the Spanish 
government took to prevent any branch of science from 
being made a pursuit which would have a tendency to 
extend the views of the subjects of the provinces to the 
geography of their country, or any other subject which 
would bring to view a comparison of their local ad- 
vantages and situations with [those of] other countries. 
1 Santa Cruz. Coues. 


135 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


the clerical association—strutting about with a 
dirk in his boot, a cane in his hand, whisper- 
ing to one girl, chucking another under the 
chin, and going out with a third, etc. From 
this village to another small village! of 500 in- 
habitants is seven miles. At each of those 
villages is a small stream, sufficient for the pur- 
pose of watering their fields. At the father’s 
house we took coffee. From this village it was — 
seventeen miles to’ another? of 400 civilized 
Indians. Here we changed horses and prepared 
for entering the capital,’ which we came in 
sight of in the evening. It is situated along the 
banks of a small creek which comes down from 
the mountains and runs west to the Rio del 
Norte. The length of the capital on the creek 
may be estimated at one mile; it is but three 
streets in width. 

Its appearance from a distance struck my 
mind with the same effect as a fleet of the flat- 
bottomed boats which are seen in the spring 
and fall seasons descending the Ohio River. 
There are two churches, the magnificence of 
whose steeples form a striking contrast to the 
miserable appearance of the houses. On the 
north side of the town is the square of soldiers’ 
houses, equal to 120 or 140 on each flank. The 
public square is in the center of the town, on 
the north side of which is situated the palace 


1 Pojoaque. Coues. 
2'Teseque. Coues. 
3 Santa Fe. 


136 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


(as they term it) or government house, with 
the quarters for guards, etc. The other side 
of the square is occupied by the clergy and 
public officers. In general the houses have a 
shed before the front, some of which havea 
flooring of brick. The consequence is that the 
streets are very narrow, say in general twenty- 
five feet. The supposed population is 4,500 
souls. On our entering the town the crowd 
was great, and [it] followed us to the government 
house. When we dismounted we were ushered 
in through various rooms the floors of which 
were covered with skins of buffalo, bear, or 
some other animal. We waited in a chamber for 
some time until his Excellency appeared, when 
we rose and the following conversation took 
place in French. 

Governor. Do you speak French? 

Pike. Yes, sir. 

Governor. You come to reconnoiter our 
country, do you? 

Pike. I marched to reconnoiter our own. 

Governor. In what character are you? 

Pike. In my proper character, an officer of 
the United States army. 

Governor. And this Robinson, is he attached 
to your party? 

Pike. No. 

Governor. Do you know him? 

Pike. Yes, he is from St. Louis. (I had under- 
stood the Doctor was sent forty-five degrees 
from Santa Fe under a strong guard, and the 


137 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


haughty and unfriendly reception of the gover- 
nor induced me to believe war must have been 
declared, and that if it was known Dr. Robin- 
son accompanied me he would be treated with 
great severity. I was correct in saying he was 
not attached to my party, for he was only a 
volunteer. He could not properly be said to be 
one of my command.) 

Governor. How many men have you? 

Pike. Fifteen. 

Governor. And this Robinson makes sixteen. 

Pike. I have already told your Excellency 
that he does not belong to my party, and [I] 
shall answer no more interrogatories on that 
subject. 

Governor. When did you leave St. Louis? 

Pike. 15th July. 

Governor. I think you marched in June. 

Pike. No, sir! 

Governor. Well, return with Mr. Barthole- 
mew to his house and come here again at seven 
o’clock and bring your papers; on which we re- 
turned to the house of my friend Bartholemew, 
who seemed much hurt at the interview. 

At the door of the government house I met 
the old Frenchman to whom I had given the 
scrap of paper on the twenty-seventh of Feb- 
ruary. He had left us in the morning and, 
as I suppose, hurried in to make his report, 
and I presume had presented this paper to his 
Excellency. I demanded, with a look of con- 
tempt, if he had made his report? To which he 


138 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


made reply in an humble tone and began to 
excuse himself, but I did not wait to hear his 
excuses. At the hour appointed we returned, 
when the Governor demanded my papers. I 
told him I understood my trunk was taken 
possession of by his guard. He expressed sur- 
prise, and immediately ordered it in, and also 
sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly a sergeant 
in our army, and one of the unfortunate com- 
pany of Nolan.! We were seated, when he 
ordered Colly to demand my name, to which I 
replied. He then demanded in what province 
I was born. I answered in English, and then 
addressed his Excellency in French, and told 
him that I did not think it necessary to enter 
into such a catechising; that if he would be at 
the pains of reading my commission from the 
United States and my orders from my general 
it would be all that I presumed would be neces- 
sary to convince his Excellency that I came 
with no hostile intentions towards the Span- 
ish government; on the contrary, that I had 


1Philip Nolan was one of the earliest American ad- 
venturers in Texas. In 1800 he organized a party of 
twenty-one men at Natchez to go into this region on the 
ostensible errand of hunting wild horses. A Spanish 
force sent from Nacogdoches to intercept the party fell 
upon it near the site of modern Waco in March, 1801. 
Nolan was slain in the battle and all of his followers 
were carried captives into Mexico. With one exception, 
history is silent concerning their later careers. 

The real Philip Nolan is not to be confused with the: 
fictitious individual of the same name who figures in 
Edward Everett Hale’s story, The Man Without a Country. 


139 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


express instructions to guard against giving 
them offense or alarm, and that his Excellency 
would be convinced that myself and party were 
rather to be considered objects on which the 
so-much-celebrated generosity of the Spanish 
nation might be exercised than proper subjects 
to occasion the opposite sentiments. 

He then requested to see my commission and 
orders, which I read to him in French, on which 
he got up and gave mehis hand for the first 
time, and said he was happy to be acquainted 
with me as a man of honor and a gentleman; 
that I could retire this evening and take my 
trunk with me; that on the morrow he would 
make further arrangements. 

4th March, Wednesday: Was desired by the 
governor to bring up my trunk in order that he 
might make some observations on my route, 
etc. When he ordered me to take my trunk 
over night, I had conceived the examination of 
papers was over, and as many of my documents 
were entrusted to the care of my men and I 
found that the inhabitants were treating the 
men with liquor, I was fearful they would be- 
come intoxicated and, through inadvertency, 
betray or discover the papers. I had therefore 
obtained several of them and had put them in 
the trunk, when an officer arrived for myself 
and it, and I had no opportunity of taking them 
out again before I was taken up to the palace. 
I discovered instantly that I [had been] deceived, 
but it was too late to remedy the evil. 


140 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


After examining the contents of my trunk 
he informed me [that] I must, with my troops, 
go to Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear 
before the commandant-general. He added: 
“You have the key of your trunk in your own 
possession; the trunk will be put under charge 
of the officer who commands your escort.’”’ The 
following conversation then took place. 

Pike. If we go to Chihuahua we must be 
considered as prisoners of war? 

Governor. By no means. 

Pike. You have already disarmed my men 
without my knowledge; are their arms to be 
returned or not? 

Governor. ‘They can receive them any mo- 
ment. ie 

Pike. But, sir, I cannot consent to be led 
three or four hundred leagues out of my route 
without its being by force of arms. 

Governor. I know you do not go voluntarily, 
but I will give you a certificate from under 
my hand of my having obliged you to march. 

Pike. I will address you a letter on the sub- 
ject. 

Governor. You will dine with me today, and 
march afterwards to a village about six miles 
distant, escorted by Captain Anthony D’Al- 
mansa with a detachment of dragoons, who 
will accompany you to where the remainder of 
your escort is now waiting for you under the 
command of the officer who commanded the 
expedition to the Pawnees. 


I4I 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


Pike, 1 would not wish to be impertinent in 
my observations to your Excellency, but pray, 
sir, do you not think it was a greater infringe- 
ment of our territory to send [an expedition] 
600 miles in the Pawnees, than for me with 
our small party to come on the frontiers of 
yours with an intent to descend Red River? 

Governor. I do not understand you. 

Pike. No, sir! Any further explanation is 
unnecessary. 

I then returned to the house of my friend 
Bartholemew, and wrote my letter to his 
Excellency, which I had not finished before we 
were hurried to dinner. 

In the morning I received from the governor 
by the hands of his private secretary twenty- 
one dollars, notifying to me that it was the 
amount of the king’s allowance for my party to 
Chihuahua and that it would be charged to me 
on account of my subsistence. From this I 
clearly understood that it was calculated that 
the expenses of the party to Chihuahua would 
be defrayed by the United States. I also re- 
ceived by the same hands from his Excellency 
a shirt and neck-cloth, with his compliments, 
wishing me to accept of them, as they were 
made in Spain by his sister and never had been 
worn by any person, for which I returned him 
my sincere acknowledgments. 

It may not be deemed irrelevant if I explain 
at this period the miserable appearance we 
made and situation we were in, with the causes 


142 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


of it. When we left our interpreter and one man 
on the Arkansaw we were obliged to carry all 
our baggage on our backs, consequently that 
which was the most useful was preferred to the 
few ornamental parts of dress we possessed. 
The ammunition claimed our first care, tools 
secondary, leather, leggings, boots, and mockin- 
sons were the next in consideration. Conse- 
quently, I left all my uniform, clothing, trunks, 
etc., as did the men, except what they had on 
their backs, conceiving that which would se- 
cure the feet and legs from the cold as pref- 
erable to any less indepensable portion of our 
dress. Thus, when we presented ourselves at 
Santa Fe I was dressed in a pair of blue trousers, 
- mockinsons, blanket coat, and a cap made of 
scarlet cloth lined with fox-skins, and my poor 
fellows in leggings, breechcloths, and leather 
coats, and not a hat in the whole party. This 
appearance was extremely mortifying to us all, 
especially as soldiers, and although some of the 
officers used frequently to observe to me that 
“worth made the man,” etc., with a variety of 
adages to the same amount, yet the first im- 
pression made on the ignorant is hard to eradi- 
cate; and a greater proof cannot be given of the 
ignorance of the common people than their 
asking if we lived in houses or camps like 
the Indians, or if we wore hats in our coun- 
try. Those observations are sufficient to show 
the impression our uncouth appearance made 
amongst them. 


143 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


The dinner at the governor’s was rather 
splendid, having a variety of dishes and wines 
of the southern provinces, and when his Ex- 
cellency was a little warmed with the influence 
of cheering liquor he became very sociable. He 
informed me that there existed a serious dif- 
ficulty between the commandant-general of 
the internal provinces and the Marquis Caso 
Calvo, who had given permission to Mr. Dun- 
bar to explore the Ouchata [Washita] contrary 
to the general principles of their government, 
in consequence of which the former had made 
representations against the latter to the court of 
Madrid. After dinner his Excellency ordered 
his coach. Captain D’Almansa, Bartholemew, 
and myself entered with him, and he drove out 
three miles. He was drawn by six mules and 
attended by a guard of cavalry. When we 
parted his adieu was, ‘‘ Remember Allencaster, 
in peace or war.” 

Left a note for my sergeant with instructions 
to keep up good discipline and not be alarmed 
or discouraged. As I was about leaving the pub- 
lic square poor Colly (the American prisoner) 
came up with tears in his eyes and hoped I 
would not forget him when I arrived in the 
United States. 

After we left the governor we rode on about 
three miles to a defile where we halted for the 
troops and I soon found that the old soldier 
who accompanied us and commanded our 
escort was fond. of a drop of the cheering 


144 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


liquor, as his boy carried a bottle in his coch- 
melies (a small leather case attached to the 
saddle for the purpose of carrying small ar- 
ticles). We were accompanied by my friend 
Bartholemew. We ascended a hill and galloped 
on until about ten o’clock, snowing hard all the 
time. We came to a precipice which we de- 
scended, meeting with great difficulty from 
the obscurity of the night, to the small village 
where we put up in the quarters of the priest, 
he being absent. 

After supper Captain D’Almansa related to 
me that he had served his Catholic majesty 
forty years to arrive at the rank he then held, 
which was a first lieutenant in the line and a 
captain by brevet, whilst he had seen various 
Europeans promoted over his head. After the 
old man had taken his quantum sufficit and 
gone to sleep, my friend and myself sat up for 
some hours, he explaining to me their situation 
[and] the great desire they felt for a change of 
affairs and an open trade with the United 
States. I pointed out to him with chalk on the 
floor the geographical connection and route 
from [between] North Mexico and Louisiana, 
and finally gave him a certificate addressed 
to the citizens of the United States stating 
his friendly disposition and his being a man 
of influence. This paper he seemed to es- 
timate as a very valuable acquisition, as he 
was decidedly of opinion we would invade 
that country the ensuing spring, and not all 


145 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


my assurances to the contrary could eradicate 
that idea. 

5th March, Friday: It [was] snowing very 
bad in the morning [and] we did not march 
until 11 o’clock. In the meantime Barthole- 
mew and myself paid a visit to an old invalid 
Spaniard, who received us in the most hos- 
pitable manner, giving us chocolate, etc. He 
made many inquiries as to our government and 
religion, and of [Bartholemew], who did not 
fail to give them the brightest coloring, he 
being enthusiastic in their favor from his 
many conversations with me, and drawing 
comparisons with his own country. What 
appeared to the old veteran most extraordinary 
was that we ever changed our president. I was 
obliged to draw his powers on a nearer affinity 
with those of a monarch than they really are, 
in order that they might comprehend his sta- 
tion and that there was a perfect freedom of 
conscience permitted in our country. He, how- 
ever, expressed his warm approbation of the 
measure. In the priest’s house in which we put 
up were two orphan girls, who were adopted 
by him in their infancy and at this time con- 
stituted his whole family. 

I bade adieu to my friend Bartholemew and 
could not avoid shedding tears; he embraced 
me, and all my men. 

We arrived at the village of St. Domingo at 
two o’clock. It is, as I supposed, nine miles on 
the east side of the Rio del Norte, and is a 


146 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


large village, the population being about 1,000 
natives, generally governed by its own chief. 
The chiefs of the villages were distinguished 
by a cane with a silver head and black tassel. 
On our arrival at the public house Captain 
D’Almansa was waited on by the governor, 
cap in hand, to receive his orders as to the 
furnishing of our quarters and ourselves with 
wood, water, provisions, etc. The house itself 
contained nothing but bare walls and small 
grated windows, and brought to my recollec- 
tion the representation of the Spanish inhabit- 
ants as given by Dr. Moore in his travels 
through Spain, Italy, etc. This village, as well 
as that of St. Philip’s and St. Bartholemew, 
are of the nation of Keres, many of whom do 
not yet speak good Spanish. 

After we had refreshed ourselves a little the 
captain sent for the keys of the church. We 
entered it, and I was much astonished to find 
enclosed in mud-brick walls many rich paint- 
ings, and the Saint (Domingo) as large as life, 
elegantly ornamented with gold and silver. 
The captain made a slight inclination of the 
head, and intimated to me that this was the 
patron of the village. We then ascended into 
the gallery, where the choir are generally 
placed. In an outside hall was placed another 
image of the saint, less richly ornamented, 
where the populace repaired daily and knelt 
to return thanks for benefactions received, or 
to ask new favors. Many young girls, indeed, 


147 


Zebulon FA. Pike 


chose the time of our visit to be on their knees 
before the holy patron. From the flat roof 
of the church we had a delightful view of 
the village, the Rio del Norte on our west, the 
mountains of St. Dies to the south, and the 
valley round the town, on which were numer- 
ous herds of goats, sheep, and asses. Upon the 
whole, this was one of the handsomest views 
in New Mexico. 

6th March, Friday; Marched down the Rio 
del Norte on the east side. Snow one foot 
deep. Passed large flocks of goats. At the 
village of St. Philip’s! [we] crossed [the river 
on| a bridge of eight arches, constructed as 
follows: the pillars made of neat woodwork, 
something similar to a crate and in the form 
of a keel-boat, the sharp end or bow to the 
current; this crate or butment was filled with 
stone, in which the river lodged sand, clay, 
etc., until it had become of a tolerably firm 
consistency. On the top of the pillars were 
laid pine logs lengthways, squared on two 
sides; being joined pretty close, [they] made a 
tolerable bridge for horses, but would not have 
been very safe for carriages, as there were no 
hand-rails. 

On our arrival at the house of the father we 
were received in a very polite and friendly 
manner, and before my departure we seemed 
to have been friends for years past. 

During our dinner, at which we had a variety 

1 San Felipe. Coues. 


148 


Che Aouthwestern Crpedition 


of wines and were entertained with music, com- 
posed of bass drums, French horns, violins, 
and cymbals, we likewise entered into a long 
and candid conversation as to the Creoles, 
wherein he neither spared the government nor 
its administrators. As to government and 
religion, Father Rubi displayed a liberality of 
opinion and a fund of knowledge which aston- 
ished me. He showed me a statistical table on 
which he had, in a regular manner, taken the 
whole province of New Mexico by villages, 
beginning at Tous! on the northwest and end- 
ing with Valencia on the south, and giving 
their latitude, longitude, and population, 
whether natives or Spaniards, civilized or bar- 
barous, Christians or pagans, numbers, name 
of the nation, when converted, how governed, 
military force, clergy, salary, etc., etc.; in 
short, a complete geographical, statistical, and 
historical sketch of the province. Of this I 
wished to obtain a copy, but perceived that 
the captain was somewhat surprised at its 
having been shown to me. When we parted 
we promised to write to each other, which I 
performed from Chihuahua. 

Here was an old Indian who was extremely 
inquisitive to know if we were Spaniards, to 
which an old gentleman called Don Francisco, 
who appeared to be an intimate of Father 
Rubi, replied in the affirmative. “But,” said 
the Indian, “they do not speak Castilian.” 

1 Taos. 


149 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


“True,” replied the other, “but you are an 
Indian of the nation of Keres, are you not?” 
“Yes.” “Well, the Utahs are Indians also?” 
“Yes.” “But still you do not understand 
them, they speaking a different language.” 
“True,” replied the Indian. ‘“ Well,” said the 
old gentleman, “those strangers are likewise 
Spaniards, but [they] do not speak the same 
language with us.” This reasoning seemed to 
satisfy the poor savage, and I could not but 
smile at the ingenuity displayed to make him ~ 
believe there was no other nation of whites but 
the Spaniards. 

Whilst at dinner Father Rubi was informed 
one of his parishioners was at the point of 
death and wished his attendance to receive his 
confession. We took our departure, but were 
shortly after overtaken by our friend, who, 
after giving me another hearty shake of the 
hand, left us. Crossed the river and passed two 
small hamlets and houses on the road to the — 
village of St. Dies,! opposite the mountain of 
the same name, where we were received in a 
house of Father Rubi, this making part of his 
domain. . 

7th March, Saturday: Marched at nine 
o’clock through a country better cultivated and 
inhabited than any I had yet seen. Arrived 
at Albuquerque, a village on the east side of 
the Rio del Norte. We were received by Father 
Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering manner, 

1The pueblo of Sandia, or Zandia. Coues. 


150 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


and led into his hall. From thence, after taking 
some refreshment, into an inner apartment 
where he ordered his adopted children of the 
female sex to appear, when they came in by 
turns, Indians of various nations, Spanish, 
French, and, finally, two young girls, who from 
their complexion I conceived to be English. 
On perceiving I noticed them, he ordered the 
rest to retire, many of whom were beautiful, 
and directed those to sit down on the sofa be- 
side me. Thus situated, he told me that they 
had been taken to the east by the Tetaus 
[and] passed from one nation to another until 
he purchased them, at that time infants. 
They could recollect neither their names nor 
language, but, concluding they were my coun- 
try-women, he ordered them to embrace me 
as a mark of their friendship, to which they 
appeared nothing loth. 

We then sat down to dinner, which consisted 
of various dishes, excellent wines, and to crown 
all, we were waited on by half a dozen of those 
beautiful girls, who, like Hebe at the feast of 
the gods, converted our wine to nectar and 
with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our 
cups. After the cloth was removed some time, 
the priest beckoned me to follow him, and led 
me into his “sanctum sanctorum,” where he 
had the rich and majestic images of various 
saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus, 
crowned with thorns, with rich rays of golden 
glory surrounding his head; in short, the room 


T5t 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


being hung with black silk curtains, served but 
to augment the gloom and majesty of the scene. 

When he conceived my imagination suffi- 
ciently wrought up, he put on a black gown and 
miter, kneeled before the cross, and took hold 
of my hand and endeavored gently to pull me 
down beside him. On my refusal he prayed 
fervently for a few minutes and then rose, laid 
his hands on my shoulders, and, as I conceived, 
blessed me. He then said to me, “You will 
not be a Christian. Oh! What a pity! ‘Oh! 
What a pity!’ He then threw off his robes, 
took me by the hand, and led me out of the 
company smiling; but the scene I had gone 
through had made too serious an impression 
on my mind to be eradicated until we took our 
departure, which was in an hour after, having 
received great marks of friendship from the 
father. 

Both above and below Albuquerque the 
citizens were beginning to open the canals to 
let in the water of the river to fertilize the 
plains and fields which border its banks on 
both sides, where we saw men, women, and 
children of all ages and sexes at the joyful labor 
which was to crown with rich abundance their 
future harvest and insure them plenty for the 
ensuing year. Those scenes brought to my 
recollection the bright descriptions given by 
Savary of the opening of the canals of Egypt. 
The cultivation of the fields was now commenc- 
ing and everything appeared to give life and 


152 


Che Aouthwestern Expedition 


gaiety to the surrounding scenery. We crossed 
the Rio del Norte a little below the village of 
Albuquerque where it was 400 yards wide, but 
not more than three feet deep and excellent 
fording. At Father Ambrosio’s was the only 
chart we saw in the province that gave the near 
connection of the sources of the Rio del Norte 
and the Rio Colorado of California, with their 
ramifications. On our arriving at the next 
village, a dependency of Father Ambrosio, we 
were invited into the house of the comman- 
dant. When I entered I saw a man sitting by 
the fire reading a book; with blooming cheeks, 
fine complexion, and a genius-speaking eye he 
arose from his seat. It was Robinson! Not 
that Robinson who left my camp on the head 
waters of the Rio del Norte, pale, emaciated, 
with uncombed locks and beard of eight 
months’ growth, but with fire, unsubdued en- 
terprise, and fortitude. The change was, in- 
deed, surprising. I started back and exclaimed, 
“Robinson!” “Yes.” “But I do not know 
you,” I replied. ‘But I know you,” he ex- 
claimed. ‘I would not be unknown to you 
here in this land of tyranny and oppression to 
avoid all the pains they dare to inflict. Yet, my 
friend, I grieve to see you here and thus, for I 
presume you are a prisoner.” I replied, “No! 
I wear my sword, you see, and all my men 
have their arms, and the moment they dare to 
ill-treat us we will surprise their guards in the 
night, carry off some horses, and make our way 


153 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


to [the] Apaches and then set them at defi- 
ance.” At this moment Captain D’Almansa 
entered and I introduced Robinson to him as 
[my] companion de voyage and friend, he having 
before seen him at Santa Fe. He did not ap- 
pear much surprised, and received him with a 
significant smile, as much as to say, “I knew 
this.”” We then marched out to the place where 
the soldiers were encamped, not one of whom 
would recognize him, agreeably to orders, 
until I gave the sign. Then it was a joyful 
meeting, as the whole party was enthusiasti- 
cally fond of him. He gave me the following 
relation of his adventures after he left me. 

“T marched the first day up the branch! on 
which we were situated, as you know we had 
concluded it would be the most proper to fol- 
low it to its source and then cross the moun- 
tains west, where we had conceived we should 
find the Spanish settlements, and at night 
encamped on its banks. The second day I left 
it a little and bore more south, and was getting 
up the side of the mountain, when I discovered 
two Indians, for whom I made. They were 
armed with bows and arrows, and were ex- 
tremely shy of my approach, but after some 
time, confidence being somewhat restored, I 
signified a wish to go to Santa Fe, when they 
pointed due south, down the river I left you 
on. As I could not believe them I reiterated 
the inquiry and received the same reply. I 

1 The Rio Conejos. 


154 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


then concluded that we had been deceived, and 
that you were on the Rio del Norte instead of 
Red River, and was embarrassed whether I 
should not immediately return to apprise you 
of it, but concluded it to be too late, as I was 
discovered by the Indians, whom if I had not 
met, or some others, I should have continued 
on, crossed the mountains to the waters of the 
Colorado, and descended them until from their 
course I should have discovered my mistake. 
I therefore offered them some presents to con- 
duct me in; they agreed, conducted me to their 
camp where their women were, and in about 
five minutes we were on our march. That 
night we encamped in the woods and I slept 
very little, owing to my distrust of my com- 
panions. 

“The next day at three o’clock P. M. we ar- 
rived at the village of Aqua Caliente, where I 
was immediately taken into the house of the 
commandant, and expresses [were] dispatched 
to Santa Fe. That night I was put to sleep on 
a mattress on the floor. The next day we de- 
parted early, leaving my arms and baggage at 
the commandant’s, he promising to have them 
forwarded to me at the city. On our arrival 
at Santa Fe the governor received me with 
great austerity at first, and entered into an 
examination of my business and took possession 
of all my papers. After all this was explained 
he ordered me to a room where the officers 
were confined when under an arrest and a 


155 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


non-commissioned officer [was detailed] to at- 
tend me when I walked out into the city, which 
I had free permission to do. I was supplied 
with provisions from the governor’s table, who 
had promised he would write [to] Baptiste 
Lalande to come down and answer to the claim 
I had against him; whose circumstance I had 
apprised myself of. 

‘The second day the governor sent for me 
and informed me that he had made inquiry as 
to the abilities of Lalande to discharge the debt 
and found that he possessed no property, but 
that at some future period he would secure 
the money for me. To this I made a spirit- 
ed remonstrance, as an infringement of our 
treaties and a protection of a refugee citizen of 
the United States against his creditors, which 
had no other effect than to obtain me an in- 
vitation to dinner and rather more respectful 
treatment than I had hitherto received from 
his Excellency, who, being slightly afflicted 
with the dropsy, requested my advice as to his 
case. I prescribed a regimen and mode of 
treatment which happened to differ from the 
one adopted by a monk and practicing physi- 
cian of the place, [which] brought on me his 
enmity and ill offices. The ensuing day I was 
ordered by the governor to hold myself in 
readiness to proceed to the internal parts of the 
country, to which I agreed, determining not 
to leave the country in a clandestine manner 
unless they attempted to treat me with indig- 


156 


Che Aouthwestern Expedition 


nity or hardship, and conceiving it in my 
power to join you on your retreat, or find Red 
River and descend it should you not be 
brought in, but in that case to share your 
destiny. Added to this I felt a desire to see 
more of the country, for which purpose I was 
willing to run the risk of future consequences. 

‘We marched the ensuing day, I having been 
equipped by my friend with some small articles 
of which I stood in need, such as I would re- 
ceive out of the numerous offers of his country. 
The fourth day I arrived at the village of St. 
Fernandez, where I was received and taken 
charge of by Lieutenant Don Faciendo Mal- 
gares, who commanded the expedition to the 
Pawnees and whom you will find a gentleman, 
a soldier, and one of the most gallant men you 
ever knew. With him I could no longer keep 
the disguise, and when he informed me, two 
days since, that you were on the way in, I 
confessed to him my belonging to your party, 
and we have ever since been anticipating the 
pleasure we three will enjoy in our journey to 
Chihuahua, for he is to command the escort, 
his dragoons being now encamped in the field, 
waiting your arrival. Since I have been with 
him I have practiced physic in the country in 
order to have an opportunity of examining the 
manners, customs, etc., of the people, and to 
endeavor to ascertain the political and religious 
feelings and to gain every other species of in- 
formation which would be necessary to our 


157 


Zebulon Fi. Pike 


country or ourselves. I am now here on a 
visit to this man’s wife, attended by a corporal 
of dragoons as a guard, who answers very well 
as a waiter, guide, etc., in my excursions 
through the country; but I will immediately 
return with you to Malgares.”’ 

Thus ended Robinson’s relation, and I in 
return related what had occurred to the party 
and myself. We agreed upon our future line 
of conduct and then joined my old captain in 
the house, who had been persuaded to tarry 
all night, provided it was agreeable to me, as 
our host wished Robinson to remain until the 
next day. With this proposition I complied in 
order that Robinson and myself might have a 
further discussion before we joined Malgares, 
who, I suspected, would watch us closely. The 
troops proceeded on to the village of Tousac 
that evening. 

8th March, Sunday: Marched, after taking 
breakfast, and halted at a little village three 
miles distant, called Tousac,! situated on the 
west side of the Rio del Norte. The men in- 
formed me that on their arrival over night they 
had all been furnished with an excellent supper, 
and after supper, wine and a violin, with a 
collection of the young people to a dance. 
When we left this village the priest sent a cart 
down to carry us over as the river was nearly 


1The party was proceeding southward from Albu- 
querque, on the opposite side of the river. Pike’s map 
locates this town about opposite Albuquerque. 


158 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


four feet deep. When we approached the 
village of St. Fernandez we were met by 
Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or 
three other officers. He received me with the 
most manly frankness and the politeness of a 
man of the world, yet my feelings were such 
as almost overpowered me and obliged me to 
ride by myself for a short period in order to 
recover myself. Those sensations arose from 
my knowledge that he had now been absent 
from Chihuahua ten months and it had cost the 
king of Spain more than $10,000 to effect that 
which a mere accident and the deception of the 
governor had effected. 

Malgares, finding I did not feel myself at 
ease, took every means in his power to banish 
my reserve, which made it impossible on my 
part not to endeavor to appear cheerful. We 
conversed as well as we could and in two hours 
were as well acquainted as some people would 
be in the same number of months. Malgares 
possessed none of the haughty Castilian pride, 
but much of the urbanity of a Frenchman; and 
I will add my feeble testimony to his loyalty 
by declaring that he was one of the few officers 
or citizens whom I found who were loyal to 
their king, felt indignant at the degraded state 
of the Spanish monarchy, and deprecated a 
revolution or separation of Spanish America 
from the mother country, unless France should 
usurp the government of Spain. These are the 
men who possess the heads to plan, the hearts 


159 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


to feel, and the hands to carry this great and 
important work into execution. In the after- 
noon our friend wrote the following notifica- 
tion to the alcaldes of several small villages 
around us: “Send this evening six or eight of 
your handsomest young girls to the village of 
St. Fernandez, where I propose giving a fan- 
dango for the entertainment of the American 
officers arrived this day. 
[Signed] Don Faciendo.” 

This order was punctually obeyed, and [it] 
portrays more clearly than a chapter of ob- 
servations the degraded state of the common 
people. In the evening when the company 
arrived the ball began after their usual manner, 
and there was really a handsome display of 
beauty. 

It will be proper to mention here that when 
my small trunk [of papers] was brought in 
Lieut. Malgares struck his foot against it and 
said: “The governor informs me this is a 
prisoner of war, or that I have charge of it, 
but, sir, only assure me that you will hold the 
papers therein contained sacred [and] I will 
have nothing to do with it.” I bowed assent, 
and I will only add that the condition was 
scrupulously adhered to, as I was bound by 
every tie of military and national honor, and, 
let me add, gratitude not to abuse his high 
confidence in the honor of a soldier. He 
further added that “Robinson being now 
acknowledged as one of your party, I shall 


160 


Che Douthwestern Crpedition 


withdraw his guard and consider him as under 
your parole of honor.” Those various marks of 
politeness and friendship caused me to en- 
deavor to evince to my brother soldier that we 
were capable of appreciating his honorable 
conduct towards us. 

gth March, Monday: The troops marched 
about ten o’clock. Lieut. Malgares and myself 
accompanied Captain D’Almansa about three 
miles back on his route to Santa Fe to the 
house of a citizen, where we dined, after which 
we separated. I wrote by the captain to the 
governor in French and to Father Rubi in 
English. D’Almansa presented me with his 
cap and whip and gave me a letter of recom- 
mendation to an officer at Chihuahua. We 
returned to our old quarters and, being joined 
by our waiters, commenced our route. Passed 
a village called St. Thomas one mile distant 
from the camp. The camp was formed in an 
ellipsis, the two long sides presenting a breast- 
work formed of the saddles and heads of the 
mules, each end of the ellipsis having a small 
opening to pass and repass at; in the center 
was the commandant’s tent. Thus in case of 
an attack on the camp there were ready- 
formed works to fight from. Malgares’ mode 
of living was superior to anything we have an 
idea of in our army, having eight mules loaded 
with his common camp equipage, wines, con- 
fectionery, etc. But this only served to evince 
the corruption of the Spanish discipline, for if 


161 


Zebulon PM, Pike 


a subaltern indulged himself with such a quan- 
tity of baggage, what would be the cavalcade 
attending on an army? Doctor Robinson had 
been called over the river to a small village to 
see a sick woman and did not return that night. 
Distance twelve miles. 

toth March, Tuesday: Marched at eight 
o’clock and arrived at the village of Sibilleta. 
Passed on the way the village of Sabinez on 
the west side and Xaxales on the same side. 
Sibilleta! is situated on the east side and is a 
regular square, appearing like a large mud wall 
on the outside, the doors, windows, etc., facing 
the square, and is the neatest and most regular 
village I have yet seen. It is governed by a 
sergeant, at whose quarters I put up. 

11th March, Wednesday: Marched at eleven 
o’clock. Came twelve miles and encamped, 
the troops having preceded us. Lieutenant 
Malgares, not being well, took medicine. The 
village we stayed at last night being the last, 
we now entered the wilderness and the road 
became rough, small hills running into the 
river, making valleys; but the bottoms appear 
richer than those more to the north. 

12th March, Thursday: Marched at seven 
o’clock and passed on the west side of the 
river the mountains of Magdalen [and] the 
Black Mountains on the east. Passed the en- 
campment of the caravan going out with about 
15,000 sheep for the other provinces, from 

1 Across the river from modern La Joya. Coues. 


162 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


which they bring back merchandise. This 
expedition consisted of about 300 men, chiefly 
citizens, escorted by an officer and thirty-five 
or forty troops. They are collected at Sibilleta, 
and separate there on their return. They go 
out in February and return in March; a 
similar expedition goes out in the autumn. 
During the other parts of the year no citizen 
travels the road, the couriers excepted. At 
the pass of the Rio del Norte they meet and 
exchange packets, when each return to their 
own province. Met a caravan of 50 men and 
probably 200 horses, loaded with goods for 
New Mexico. Halted at twelve o’clock and 
marched at three. Lieut. Malgares showed me 
the place where he had been in two affairs with 
the Apaches; one he commanded himself, and 
the other was commanded by Captain D’Al- 
mansa. In the former there was one Spaniard 
killed and eight wounded, and ten Apaches 
made prisoners; in the latter fifty-two Apaches 
were wounded and seventeen killed, they being 
surprised in the night. Malgares killed two 
himself, and had two horses killed under him. 

13th March, Friday: Marched at seven 
o'clock. Saw many deer. Halted at eleven 
o’clock and marched at four o’clock. This day 
one of our horses threw a young woman and 
ran off (as was the habit of all the Spanish 
horses, if by chance they throw their rider) 
when many of the dragoons and Malgares 
pursued him. I, being mounted on an elegant 


163 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


horse of Malgares, joined in the chase and not- 
withstanding their superior horsemanship over- 
took the horse, caught his bridle, and stopped 
him when both of the horses were nearly at 
full speed. This act procured me the applause 
of the Spanish dragoons, and it is astonishing 
how much it operated on their good will. 

14th March, Saturday: Marched at ten 
o’clock and halted at a mountain; distance ten 
miles. This is the point from which the road 
leaves the river for two days’ journey bearing 
due south, the river taking a turn southwest. 
By the river [it is] five days to where the roads 
meet.! We marched at four o’clock and eight 
miles below crossed the river to the west side. 
Two mules fell into the water, and unfortu- 
nately they carried the stores of Lieutenant 
Malgares, by which means we lost all our 
bread, an elegant assortment of biscuit, etc. 
Distance eighteen miles. 

15th March, Sunday: Marched at half past 
ten o’clock. Made twenty-eight miles, the 
route rough and stony; course S. 20° W. — 

16th March, Monday: Marched at seven 
o’clock and halted at twelve. Passed on the 
~ east side the Horse Mountain and the Moun- 
tain of the Dead. Came on a trail of appear- 


1 This stretch of road, seventy-eight miles in length 
was known by the expressive name Jornada del Muerlo 
—journey of death. Its evil character was due to the 
fact that water could be obtained, if at all, only with 
great difficulty. Pike’s conductor chose to avoid it by 
taking the longer, roundabout route. 


164 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


ance of 200 horses, supposed to be the trail of 
an expedition from the province of Biscay 
against the Indians. 

17th March, Tuesday: Marched at ten 
o’clock, and at four in the afternoon crossed the 
river to the east side. Saw several fresh Indian 
tracks, also the trail of a large party of horses, 
‘supposed to be Spanish troops in pursuit of the 
Indians. Marched down the river twenty-six 
miles. Fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of 
horses. Country mountainous on both sides of 
the river. 

18th March, Wednesday: Marched down the 
river twenty-six miles. Fresh sign of Indians, 
also a party of horses. Country mountainous 
on both sides of the river.! 

roth March, Thursday: Struck out east 
about three miles and fell in with the main 
road, on a large flat prairie, which we left at 
the mountain of the Friar Christopher.” 

20th March, Friday: Halted at ten o’clock 
at a salt lake. Marched until two o’clock, 
halted for the day.? Vegetation began to be 
discoverable on the seventeenth and this day 
the weeds and grass were quite high. 


1 Apparently this entry is an inadvertent duplication 
of the one for the preceding day. The entry properly 
pertaining to this day is lost. 

2 That is, the party had now regained the main road 
which it had left on the fourteenth, in order to avoid the 
Jornada del Muerto. 

3 In the vicinity of Montoyo, Texas, in the extreme 
western corner of the state. Coues. 


165 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


21st March, Saturday: Marched in the morn- 
ing and arrived at the Passo del Norte! at 
eleven o’clock, the road leading through a hilly 
and mountainous country. We put up at the 
house of Don Francisco Garcia, who was a 
merchant and a planter. He possessed in the 
vicinity of the town 20,000 sheep and 1,000 
cows. We were received in a most hospitable 
manner by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the 
lieutenant governor, and Father Joseph Prado, 
the vicar of the place. This was by far the 
most flourishing place we had been in. 

22d March, Sunday: Remained at the Passo. 

23d March, Monday: Mass performed; 
leave the Passo at three o’clock to Fort Elisi- 
aira, accompanied by the lieutenant governor, 
the vicar, and Allencaster, a brother of the 
governor. Malgares, myself, and the Doctor 
took up our quarters at the house of Captain 
—_________., who was then at Chihuahua, but 
his lady and sister entertained us in a very 
elegant and hospitable manner. They began 
playing cards and continued until late the third 
day. Malgares, who won considerably, would 
send frequently fifteen or twenty dollars from 
the table to the lady of the house, her sister, 
and others, and beg their acceptance in order 


1 The ‘‘Passo” of Pike’s journal was the Mexican town | 
on the opposite side of the river from modern E] Paso, 
Texas. In crossing the river here, Pike crossed the 
present boundary between the states of Texas and 
Chihuahua. 


166 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


that the goddess of fortune might still continue 
propitious; in this manner he distributed $500. 
Around this fort were a great number of 
Apaches, who were on a treaty with the 
Spaniards. These people appeared to be per- 
fectly independent in their manners and were 
the only savages I saw in the Spanish domin- 
ions whose spirit was not humbled, whose 
necks were not bowed to the yoke of their 
invaders. With those people Malgares was 
extremely popular, and I believe he sought 
popularity with them and all the common 
people, for there was no man so poor or so 
humble, under whose roof he would not enter; 
and when he walked out I have seen him put a 
handful of dollars in [to] his pocket [and] give 
them all to the old men, women, and chil- 
dren before he returned to his quarters, but to 
equals he was haughty and overbearing. This 
conduct he pursued through the whole prov- 
ince of New Mexico and Biscay, when at a 
distance from the seat of government, but I 
could plainly perceive that he was cautious of 
his conduct as he approached the capital. I 
here left a letter for my sergeant. 
24th March, Tuesday: Very bad weather. 
25th March, Wednesday: The troops marched, 
but Lieut. Malgares and my men remained. 
26th March, Thursday: Divine service was 
performed in the morning in the garrison, 
at which‘all the troops attended under arms. 
At one part of their mass they present arms, at 


167 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


another, sink on one knee and rest the muzzle 
of the gun on the ground, in signification of 
their submission to their divine master. At 
one o'clock we bade adieu to our friendly 
hostess, who was one of the finest women I had 
seen in New Spain.! At dusk arrived at a 
small pond made by a spring, which arose in 
the center, called the Ogo Mall a Ukap, and 
seemed formed by providence to enable the 
human race to pass that route, as it was the 
only water within sixty miles on the route. 
Here we overtook Sergeant Belardie with the 
party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, 
who had left us at Fort Elisiaira, where we had 
received a new escort. Distance twenty miles. 

27th March, Friday: Arrived at Carracal 
[Carrizal] at twelve o’clock. Distance twenty- 
eight miles; the road well watered and the 
situation pleasant. The father-in-law of our 
friend commanded six or seven years here. 
When we arrived at the fort the commandant, 
Don Pedro Rues Saramende received Robinson 
and myself with a cold bow and informed 
Malgares that we could repair to the public 
quarters. To this Malgares indignantly re- 
plied that he should accompany us, and 
turned to go, when the commandant took him 
by the arm [and] made many apologies to him 


1 They were about to take the road for Chihuahua 
via Carrizal. Coues states that there were two roads 
from El Paso to Carrizal; the one which Pike’s party 
took led directly south from El Paso, over the route 
where the railroad now runs. 


168 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


and us, and we at length reluctantly entered 
his quarters. Here for the first time I saw the 
gazettes of Mexico, which gave rumors of 
Colonel Burr’s conspiracies, the movements of 
our troops, etc., etc., but which were stated 
in so vague and undefined a manner as only 
to create our anxiety without throwing any 
light on the subject. 

28th March, Saturday: Marched at half 
past three o’clock and arrived at the Warm 
Springs at sundown. Crossed one little fosse on 
the route. 

29th March, Sunday: Marched at ten 
o’clock and continued our route, with but a 
short halt, until sundown, when we encamped 
without water. Distance thirty miles. 

30th March, Monday: Marched before seven 
o’clock; the front [men] arrived at water at 
eleven o’clock, the mules at twelve. The 
spring on the side of the mountain to the east 
of the road [is] a beautiful situation. I here saw 
the first ash timber I observed in the country. 
This water is fifty-two miles from the Warm 
Springs. Yesterday and today see cabrie. 
Marched fifteen miles farther and encamped 
without wood or water. Passed two other small 
springs to the east of the road. 

31st March, Tuesday: Marched early and 
arrived at an excellent spring at ten o’clock. 
The roads from Senora, Tanos, and Buena- 
ventura, etc., join about 400 yards before you 
arrive at the spring. 


169 


Zebulon FA. Pike 


Arrived at the village of _______ at night, a 
large and elegant house for the country; here 
were various labors carried on by criminals in 
irons. We here met with a Catalonian, who 
was but a short time from Spain, and whose 
dialect was such that he could scarcely be 
understood by Malgares, and whose manners 
were much more like those of a citizen of our 
western frontiers than of a subject of a despotic 
prince. 

1st April, Wednesday: In the morning Mal- 
gares dispatched a courier with a letter to the 
Commandant-general Salcedo to inform him of 
our approach, and also one to his father-in-law. 

2d April, Thursday: When we arrived at 
Chihuahua we pursued our course through the 
town to the house of the general. I was much 
astonished to see with what anxiety Malgares 
anticipated the meeting with his military 
chief. After having been on the most arduous 
and enterprising expedition ever undertaken 
by any of his Majesty’s officers from these 
provinces, and having executed it with equal 
spirit and judgment, yet was he fearful of his 
meeting him with an eye of displeasure, and 
appeared to be much more agitated than our- 
selves, although we may be supposed to have 
also had our sensations, as on the will of this 
man depended our future destiny, at least 
until our country could interfere in our behalf. 
On our arrival at the general’s we were halted 
in the hall of the guard until word was sent 


170 


Che Southwestern €rpedition 


to the general of our arrival, when Malgares 
was first introduced. He remained some time, 
during which a Frenchman came up and en- 
deavored to enter into conversation with us, 
but was soon frowned into silence as we con- 
ceived he was only some authorized spy. 
Malgares at last came out and asked me to 
walk in. I found the general sitting at his 
desk. He was a middle-sized man, apparently 
about fifty-five years of age, with a stern 
countenance, but he received me graciously 
and beckoned to a seat. . 

He then observed, ‘“‘ You have given us and 
yourself a great deal of trouble.” 

Captain Pike. On my part entirely un- 
sought, and on that of the Spanish government 
voluntary. 

General. Where are your papers? 

Captain Pike. Under charge of Lieutenant 
Malgares. 

[Malgares| was then ordered to have my 
small trunk brought in, which being done, a 
Lieutenant Walker came in, who is a native of 
New Orleans, his father an Englishman, his 
mother a French woman, and [who] spoke 
both those languages equally well, also the 
Spanish. He was a lieutenant of dragoons in 
the Spanish service and master of the military 
school at Chihuahua. This same young gentle- 
man was employed by Mr. Andrew Ellicott 
as a deputy surveyor on the Florida line be- 
tween the United States and Spain in the years 


171 


Zebulon fA, Pike 


°97 and ’98.! General Salcedo then desired 
him to assist me in taking out my papers and 
requested me to explain the nature of each, and 
such as he conceived were relevant to the ex- 
pedition he caused to be laid on one side, and 
those which were not of a public nature on the 
other; the whole either passing through the 
hands of the general or Walker, except a few 
letters from my lady, which on my taking up 
and saying they were letters from a lady the 
general gave a proof that if the ancient Spanish 
bravery had degenerated in the nation gen- 
erally, their gallantry still existed, by bowing, 
and I put them in my pocket. He then in- 
formed me that he would examine the papers, 
but that in the meanwhile he wished me to 
make out and present to him a short sketch of 
my voyage, which might probably be satis- 
factory. This I would have positively refused 
had I had an idea that it was his determination 
to keep my papers, which I could not at that 
time conceive, from the urbanity and satisfac- 
tion which he appeared to exhibit on the event 


1 Andrew Ellicott, a native of Bucks County, Penn- 
sylvania, became a noted surveyor and astronomer. In 
1790 he was directed by President Washington to lay 
out the city of Washington. In 1792 he became sur- 
veyor-general of the United States, and in 1796 Wash- 
ington appointed him to run the boundary between the 
United States and Spain east of the Mississippi. This 
work he did in the years 1796-1800. He died in 1820 
while serving as professor of mathematics at West 
Point. 


172 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


of our interview. He then told me that I 
would take up my quarters with Walker in 
order, as he said, to be better accommodated 
by having a person with me who spoke the 
English language; but the object, as I sus- 
pected, was for him to be a spy on our actions 
and on those who visited us. 

Robinson all this time had been standing in 
the guard-room, boiling with indignation at 
being so long detained there, subject to the 
observations of the soldiery and [the] gaping 
curiosity of the vulgar. He was now introduced 
by some mistake of one of the aides-de-camp. 
He appeared and made a slight bow to the 
general, who demanded of Malgares who he 
was? He replied a doctor who accompanied 
the expedition. “Let him retire,” said the 
general, and he went out. The general then 
invited me to return and dine with him, and 
we went to the quarters of Walker, where we 
received several different invitations to take 
quarters at houses where we might be better 
accommodated, but understanding that the 
general had designated our quarters we were 
silent. 

We returned to dine at the palace, where we 
met Malgares, who, with ourselves, was the 
only guest. He had at the table the treasurer, 
Truxillio, and a priest called Father Rocus. 

3d April, Friday: Employed in giving a 
sketch of our voyage for the general and com- 
mandant of those provinces. Introduced to 


173 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


Don Bernardo Villamil, Don Alberto Mayner, 
lieutenant colonel, and father-in-law to Mal- 
gares, and Don Manuel Zuloaga, a member of 
the secretary’s office, to whom I am under ob- 
ligations of gratitude and shall remember with 
esteem. Visited his house in the evening. 

4th April, Saturday: Visited the hospital, 
where were two officers who were fine-looking 
men, and I was informed had been the gayest 
young men of the province, who were molder- 
ing away by disease, and there was not a 
physician in his Majesty’s hospitals who was 
able to cure them, but after repeated attempts 
had given them up to perish. This shows the 
deplorable state of the medical science in the 
provinces. I endeavored to get Robinson to 
undertake the cure of these poor fellows, but 
the jealousy and envy of the Spanish doctors 
made it impracticable. 

5th April, Sunday: Visited by Lieutenant 
Malgares with a very polite message from his 
Excellency, and delivered in the most impres- 
sive terms, with offers of assistance, money, 
etc., for which I returned my respectful thanks 
to the general. Accompanied Malgares to the 
public walk, where we found the secretary, 
Captain Villamil, Zuloaga, and other officers of 
distinction. We here, likewise, met the wife of 
my friend Malgares, to whom he introduced us. 
She was, like all the other ladies of New Spain, 
a little en bon point, but possessed the national 
beauty of eye in superior degree. There was a 


174 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


large collection of ladies, amongst whom were 
two of the most celebrated in the capital— 
Sefiora Maria Con. Caberarie, and Sefiora 
Marguerite Vallois, the only two ladies who 
had spirit sufficient, and their husbands gen- 
erosity enough, to allow them to think them- 
selves rational beings, to be treated on an 
equality, to receive the visits of their friends, 
and give way to the hospitality of their dis. 
positions without constraint. They were, con- 
sequently, the envy of the ladies and the 
subject of scandal to prudes. Their houses were 
the rendezvous of all the fashionable male 
society, and every man who was conspicuous 
for science, arts, or arms was sure to meet a 
welcome. We, as unfortunate strangers, were 
consequently not forgotten. I returned with 
Malgares to the house of his father-in-law, 
Lieutenant-Colonel Mayner, who was origi- 
nally from Cadiz, a man of good information. 

6th April, Monday: Dined with the general. 
Writing, etc. In the evening visited Malgares 
and the secretary. After dinner wine was set on 
the table and we were entertained with songs 
in the French, Italian, Spanish, and English 
languages. Accustomed as I was to sitting 
some time after dinner, I forgot their siesta, or 
repose after dinner, until Walker suggested the 
thing to me, when we retired. 

7th April, Tuesday: Dined at Don Antonio 
Caberarie’s, in company with Villamil, Zulo- 
aga, Walker, etc. Sent in a sketch of my 


175 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


voyage to the general. Spent the evening at 
Colonel Mayner’s with Malgares. 

dth April, Wednesday: Visited the treasurer, 
who showed me the double-barrel gun given 
by Governor Claiborne,! and another formerly 
the property of Nolan. 

oth April, Thursday: In the evening was 
informed that David Fero? was in town and 
wished to speak to me. ‘This man had formerly 
been my father’s ensign, and was taken with 
Nolan’s party at the time the latter was killed. 
He possessed a brave soul, and had withstood 
every oppression since his being made pris- 
oner with astonishing fortitude. Although his 
leaving the place of his confinement, the village 
of St. Jeronimie, [San Jeronimo] without the 
knowledge of the general was in some measure 
clandestine, yet a countryman, an acquaint- 
ance, and formerly a brother soldier, in a 
strange land, in distress, had ventured much 
to see me—could I deny him the interview 
from any motives of delicacy? No; forbid it, 

1 William C. C. Claiborne, a native of Virginia, lo- 
cated at Nashville, Tenn., where he served in Congress. 
In 1802 he was appointed governor of Mississippi Terri- 
tory, and in 1804, governor of the newly-acquired 
Louisiana Territory. He subsequently served as gover- 
nor of the state of Louisiana, and was elected to the 
U. S. Senate, but before taking the latter office he died 
at New Orleans, Nov. 23, 1817. 

2 David Fero, Jr., was an ensign in the Third Sub- 
Legion from May 12, 1794, to Nov. 1, 1796. He was then 


transferred to the Third Infantry, promoted to the rank 
of lieutenant Oct. 3, 1798, and resigned July 22, 1799. 


176 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


pepe forbid it every sentiment of my 
soul! 

Our meeting was affecting, tears standing 
in his eyes. He informed me the particulars of 
their being taken, and many other circum- 
stances since their being in the country. I 
promised to do all I could for him consistent 
with my character and honor, and their having 
entered the country without the authority of 
the United States. As he was obliged to leave 
the town before day, he called on me at my 
quarters, when I bade him adieu and gave him 
what my purse afforded, not what my heart 
dictated. 

toth April, Friday: In the evening at 
Colonel Mayner’s. Captain Rodiriques ar- 
rived from the province of Texas, who had been 
under arrest one year for going to Natchitoches 
with the Marquis Cassa Calvo. 

r1th April, Saturday: Rode out in the coach 
with Malgares; was hospitably entertained at 
the house of one of the Vallois, where we drank 
London porter. Visited Secretary Villamil. 

12th April, Sunday: Dined, with the Doctor, 
at Don Antonio Caberarie’s with our usual 
guests. In the evening at the public walks. 

13th April, Monday: Nothing extraordinary. 

14th April, Tuesday: Spent the forenoon 
in writing; the afternoon at Don Antonio 
Caberarie’s. 

15th April, Wednesday: Spent the evening 
at Colonel Mayner’s with our friend Malgares. 


177 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


Wrote a letter to Governor Salcedo on the 
subject of my papers. 

16th April, Thursday: Spent the evening at 
the secretary’s, Don Villamil’s. 

t7th April, Friday: Sent my letter to his 
Excellency. Spent the evening with my friend 
Malgares. 

18th April, Saturday: Spent the evening at 
Caberarie’s, etc. Wrote to Governor Allen- 
caster. 

toth April, Sunday: In the evening at a 
fandango. 

20th April, Monday: We this day learned 
that an American officer had gone on to the city 
of Mexico. This was an enigma to us inex- 
plicable, as we conceived that the jealousy of 
the Spanish government would have prevented 
any foreign officer from penetrating the coun- 
try; and what the United States could send 
an authorized agent to the vice royalty [for] 
when the Spanish government had at the seat 
of our government a chargé d’affaires, served 
but to darken the conjectures. The person 
alluded to was Mr. Burling, a citizen of the 
Mississippi Territory, whose mission is now 
well known to the government. We likewise 
received an account of a commercial treaty 
having been entered into between Great 
Britain and the United States, which by the 
Dons was only considered as the preliminary 
step to an alliance offensive and defensive 
between the two nations. 


178 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


21st April, Tuesday: Presented the com- 
manding general with a letter for General 
Wilkinson, which he promised to have for- 
warded to the governor of Texas. 

22d April, Wednesday: Spent the day in 
reading and studying Spanish; the evening at 
Captain Villamil’s. 

23d April, Thursday: Dined at Don Pedro 
Vallois; [spent] the evening with Colonel May- 
ner. Bade him adieu, as he was to march the 
next day. In the evening received a letter from 
the commandant general informing me my 
papers were to be detained, giving a certificate 
of their numbers, contents, etc., etc. 

24th April, Friday: Spent the evening at 
Zuloaga’s with his relations. About sundown 
an officer of the government called on me, 
and told me that the government had been in- 
formed that in conversations in all societies 
Robinson and myself had held forth political 
maxims and principles which, if just, I must be 
conscious, if generally disseminated, would in a 
very few years be the occasion of a revolt of 
those kingdoms; that those impressions had 
taken such effect as that it was no uncommon 
thing in circles in which we associated to hear 
the comparative principles of a republican and 
a monarchical government discussed, and even 
the allegiance due (in case of certain events) to 
the court called in question; that various char- 
acters of consideration had indulged themselves 
in those conversations, all of whom were noted 


179 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


and would be taken care of; but that, as it re- 
spected myself and companion, it was the 
desire of his Excellency that whilst in the do- 
minions of Spain we would not hold forth any 
conversations whatsoever either on the subject 
of religion or politics. 

I replied that it was true I had held various 
and free conversations on the subjects com- 
plained of, but only with men high in office, 
who might be supposed to be firmly attached 
to the king, and partial to the government of 
their country; that I had never gone amongst 
the poor and illiterate preaching up republic- 
anism or a free government; that as to the 
Catholic religion, I had only combated some 
of what I conceived to be its illiberal dogmas, 
but that I had spoken of it in all instances as a 
respectable branch of the Christian religion, 
which, as well as all others, was tolerated in 
the United States; but that, had I come to that 
kingdom in a diplomatic character, delicacy 
towards the government would have sealed my 
lips; had I been a prisoner of war, personal — 
safety might have had the same effect; but 
being there in the capacity which I was, not 
voluntarily, but by coercion of the Spanish 
government, but, who, at the same time had 
officially notified me that they did not consider 
me under any restraint whatever—therefore, 
when called on [I] should always give my 
opinions freely, either as to politics or religion; 
but at the same time with urbanity and a 


180 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


proper respect to the legitimate authorities of 
the country where I was. 

He replied, “Well, you may then rest as- 
sured your conduct will be represented in no 
very favorable point of view to your govern- 
ment.” 

I replied, “To my government I am cer- 
tainly responsible, and to no other.” He then 
left me and I immediately waited on some of 
my friends and notified them of the threat, 
at which they appeared much alarmed, and we 
went immediately to consult —__--__, who 
to great attachment to his friends joined the 
most incorruptible loyalty and the confidence 
of the government. Our consultation ended 
in a determination only to be silent and watch 
events. 

We suspected [Walker] to be the informant, 
but whether just in our suspicion or not I will 
not pretend to determine, for Robinson and 
myself frequently used to hold conversations 
in his presence purposely to have them com- 
municated; but he at last discovered our in- 
tentions and told us that if we calculated on 
making him a carrier of news we were mis- 
taken; that he despised it. 

25th April, Saturday: At eleven o’clock 
called on his Excellency, but was informed he 
was engaged. About three o’clock received a 
message from him by Lieutenant Walker in- 
forming me that he was surprised I had not re- 
turned, and to call without ceremony in the 


181 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


evening, which I did, and presented him with 
a letter. He then also candidly informed me my 
party would not join me in the territory of 
the king of Spain, but that they should be at- 
tended to punctually and forwarded on im- 
mediately after me; but requested that I 
should give orders to my sergeant to deliver 
up all his ammunition and dispose in some 
manner of the horses of which he had charge. 
I stated in reply that with respect to the am- 
munition, I would give orders to my sergeant 
to deliver (if demanded) all they possessed 
more than was necessary to fill their horns; 
but that as to the horses, I considered their loss 
was a charge which must be adjusted between 
the two governments, therefore should not 
give any directions respecting them, except as 
to bringing them on as far and as long as they 
were able to travel. He then gave me an 
invitation to dine with him on the morrow. 

26th April, Sunday: Dined at the general’s. 
In the evening went to Malgares’, Zuloaga’s 
and others. Wrote to my sergeant and Fero, 
to the latter of whom I sent ten dollars, and to 
the other $161.84, to purchase clothes for the 
party. We had been for some time suspicious 
that the Doctor was to be detained, but this 
evening he likewise obtained permission to 
pursue his journey with me, which diffused 
general joy through all the party. 

27th April, Monday: Spent the day in mak- 
ing arrangements for our departure, writing to 


182 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


the sergeant, etc. I will here mention some few 
anecdotes relative to [Walker], with whom we 
boarded during our stay in Chihuahua. When 
we came to the city we went to his quarters 
(by order of the general) and considered our- 
selves as guests, having not the least idea that 
we should be charged with board, knowing 
with what pleasure any American officer would 
receive and entertain a foreign brother soldier 
situated as we were, and that we would con- 
ceive it a great insult to be offered pay under 
similar circumstances. But one day after we 
had been there about a week he presented to 
me an account for Robinson’s and my board, 
receipted, and begged, if the general inquired 
of me, that I would say I had paid it. This 
naturally led me to demand how the thing 
originated. He, with considerable embarrass- 
ment, observed that he had taken the liberty 
to remark to the general that he thought he 
should be allowed an extra allowance in order 
to be enabled to treat us with some little dis- 
tinction. The general flew into a most violent 
passion and demanded if I had not paid him 
for our board? To which the other replied, 
No, he did not expect pay of us. He ordered 
him immediately to demand pay, to receive it, 
sign a receipt, and lodge it in his hands, and 
added he would consult me [to learn] if the 
thing was done, which he never did, yet I took 
care every Sunday after that to deposit in the 
hands of Walker a sum which was consid- 


183 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


ered the proportion for Robinson and myself. 
Malgares and several other of the Spanish 
officers, having heard of the thing, waited on 
us much mortified, saying with what pleasure 
they would have entertained us had not the 
designation of the general pointed out his will 
on the subject. 

[Walker] had living with him an old negro, 
the only one I saw on that side of Saint Antonio, 
who was the property of some person who 
resided near Natchez, who had been taken with 
Nolan. Having been acquainted with him in 
the Mississippi country, [he] solicited and ob- 
tained permission for old Cesar to live with 
him. I found him very communicative and 
extremely useful. The day I arrived, when we 
were left alone he came in and looked around 
at the walls of theroom and exclaimed, “‘ What! 
all gone?” I demanded an explanation, and 
he informed me that the maps of the different 
provinces, as taken by [Walker] and other 
surveyors, had been hung up against the 
walls, but the day we arrived they had all 
been taken down and deposited in a closet 
which he designated. Walker gave various 
reasons for his having left the United States 
and joined the Spanish service, one of which 
was his father having been ill-treated, as he 
conceived, by G. at Natchez. At Chihuahua 
he had charge of the military school, which 
consisted of about fifteen young men of the 
first families of the provinces; also of the public 


184 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


water-works of the city on a plan devised by the 
royal engineer of Mexico; of the building of a 
new church; of the casting of small artillery, 
fabrication of arms, etc., etc. Thus, though 
he had tendered his resignation, they knew his 
value too well to part with him and would not 
accept of it, but still kept him in a subordinate 
station in order that he might be the more de- 
pendent and the more useful. Although he 
candidly confessed his disgust at their service, 
manners, morals, and political establishments, 
yet he never made a communication to us 
which he was bound in honor to conceal; but 
on the contrary fulfilled the station of in- 
former, which in that country is considered no 
disgrace, with great punctuality and fidelity. 
In this city the proverb was literally true that 
“the walls have ears,” for there was scarcely 
anything could pass that his Excellency did 
not know in a few hours after. In the evening 
I was notified to be ready to march the next 
day at three o’clock. 

28th April, Tuesday: In the morning Mal- 
gares waited on us and informed us he was to 
accompany us some distance on the route. 
After bidding adieu to all our friends [we] 
marched at a quarter past three o’clock, 
and encamped at nine o’clock at night at a 
spring (stony). Passed near Chihuahua a small 
ridge of mountains and there encamped in a 
hollow. 

This day as [we] were riding along Malgares 


185 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


rode up to me and informed me that the general 
had given orders that I should not be permitted 
to make any astronomical observations. To 
this I replied that he well knew I never had 
attempted making any since I was conducted 
into the Spanish dominions. 

20th April, Wednesday: Arrived at a settle- 
ment at eight o’clock; plenty of milk, etc. 
When about to make my journal Malgares 
changed color and informed me it was his 
orders I should not take notes, but added, 
“You have a good memory, and when you get 
to Cogquilla [Coahuila] you can bring it all up.” 
At first I felt considerably indignant, and was 
on the point of refusing to comply; but think- 
ing for a moment of the many politenesses I 
had received from his hands, induced me mere- 
ly to bow assent with a smile and we proceeded 
on our route, but had not proceeded far before 
I made a pretext to halt, established my boy 
as a vidette and sat down peaceably under a 
bush and made my notes, etc. This course I 
pursued ever after, not without some very con- 
siderable degree of trouble to separate myself 
from the party. 

Arrived at the fort of St. Paul at eleven 
o’clock, situated on a small river of the same 
name, the course of which is northeast by 
southwest. At the time we were there the 
river! was not wider than a mill stream, but 

1The Rio Dan Pedro, a tributary of the Conchos. 
Coues. 

186 


Che DAouthtwestern Crpedition 


sometimes it is 300 yards wide and impassable. 
Distance thirty miles. 

30th A pril, Thursday: Marched at six o’clock 
and at eleven arrived at the river Conchos,! 
twenty-four miles. Beautiful green trees on its 
banks. I was taken very sick at half past ten 
o'clock. Arrived at night at a small station on 
the river Conchos, garrisoned by a sergeant and 
ten men from Fort Conchos, fifteen leagues up 
said river. Distance forty-three miles. 

tst May, Friday: Marched up the Conchos 
to its confluence with the river Florada,? 
fifteen leagues from where we left the former 
river, and took up the latter, which bears from 
the Conchos S. 80° and 50° E. On its banks are 
some very flourishing settlements, and they 
are well timbered. A poor miserable village® 
at the confluence. Came ten miles up the 
Florada to dinner, and at night stopped at a 
private house. This property or plantation was 
valued formerly at $300,000, extending on 
the Florada from the small place we slept at on 
the last of April thirty leagues up said river. 
Distance forty-five miles. 

Finding that a new species of discipline had 
taken place and that the suspicions of my 
friend Malgares were much more acute than 
ever, I conceived it necessary to take some 
steps to secure the notes I had taken, which 


1 At the site of Samcillo. Coues. 
2 The Rio Florido. 
3 Santa Rosalia. 


187 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


were clandestinely acquired. In the night I 
arose and after making my men charge all 
their pieces well I took my small books and 
rolled them up in small rolls and tore a fine 
shirt to pieces and wrapped it round the papers 
and put them down in the barrels of the guns, 
until we just left room for the tampons, which 
were then carefully put in; the remainder we 
secured about our bodies under our shirts. 
This occupied about two hours, but was effec- 
ted without discovery and without suspicions. 

2d May, Saturday: Marched early, and in 
four and a quarter hours arrived at Guaxe- 
quillo [Guajuquilla], situated on the river 
Florada, where we were to exchange our friend 
Malgares for Captain Barelo, who was a Mex- 
ican by birth, born near the capital, and en- 
tered as a cadet at Guaxequillo near twenty 
years past, and by his extraordinary merits, 
being a Creolian, had been promoted to a cap- 
tain, which was even by himself considered 
as his ultimate promotion. He was a gentle- 
man in his manners, generous and frank, and, 
I believe, a good soldier. 

3d May, Sunday: At Guaxequillo the cap- 
tain gave up hiscommand to Malgares. Atnight 
the officers gave a ball at which appeared at 
least sixty women, ten or a dozen of whom were 
very handsome. 

4th May, Monday: Don Hyman Guloo ar- 
rived from Chihuahua, accompanied by a 
citizen and the friar, who had been arrested 


188 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


by order of the commandant-general and was 
on his way to Mexico for trial. 

5th May, Tuesday: The party marched with 
all the spare horses and baggage. 

6th May, Wednesday: Marched at five 
o’clock. Ascended the river four miles, when 
we left it to our right and took off south 60°, 
east eight miles. Our friend Malgares accom- 
panied us a few miles, to whom we bade an 
eternal adieu, if war does not bring us together 
in the field of battle opposed as the most deadly 
enemies when our hearts acknowledge the 
greatest friendship. Halted at ten o’clock and 
marched again at four. No water on the road. 
Detached a Spanish soldier in search of some, 
who did not join us until twelve o’clock at 
night. Encamped in the open prairie. No 
wood or water except what the soldier brought 
us in gourds. The mules came up at eleven 
o’clock at night. Distance thirty miles. 

7th May, Thursday: Marched very early; 
wind fresh from the south. The punctuality 
of Captain Barelo as to hours was remarkable. 
Arrived at half past nine o’clock at a spring, 
the first water from Guaxequillo. ‘The mules 
did not unload, but continued on nine miles to 
another spring at the foot of a mountain; good 
pasturage round it; mountains on each side 
all day. Distance twenty-eight miles. 

8th May, Friday: Marched [early]; at five 
miles due west [passed] through a gap in the 
mountains, then turned S. 20° E. and more 


189 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


south to a river! about twenty feet wide [with] 
high steep banks, now dry except in holes, but 
sometimes full and impassable. Halted at 
seven o’clock and sent on the loaded mules. 
Marched at five o’clock; came ten miles and 
encamped without water. Distance eighteen 
miles. 

oth May, Saturday: Marched between four 
and five o’clock and arrived at Pelia [Pelayo] 
at eight. This is only a station for a few sol- 
diers, but [it] is surrounded by mines. At this 
place are two large warm springs strongly im- 
pregnated with sulphur, and this is the water 
obliged to be used by the party who are sta- 
tioned here. Here we remained all day. Cap- 
tain Barelo had two beeves killed for his and 
my men and charged nothing to either. Here 
he received orders from the general to lead us 
through the wilderness to Montelovez [Mon- 
clova|, in order that we should not approximate 
to the frontiers of Mexico, which we should 
have done by the usual route of Pattos [Patos], 
Paras [Parras] etc. 

roth May, Sunday; Marched past one cop- 
per mine now diligently worked. At this place 
the proprietor had 100,000 sheep, cattle, 
horses, etc. Arrived at the Cadena, a house 
built and occupied by a priest. It is situated 
on a small stream at the pass of the mountains? 
called by the Spaniards the Door of the Prison, 


1 The El Andabazo. Coues. 
2’ The Sierra de las Nimbres. Coues. 


190 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


from its being surrounded with mountains. 
The proprietor was at Sumbraretto,! distant 
six days’ march. This hacienda was obliged to 
furnish accommodations to all travelers. 

Marched at five o’clock and passed the chain 
of mountains due east twelve miles, and en- 
camped without water. Distance thirty-one 
miles. 

r1th May, Monday: Marched, and arrived 
at Maupeme [Mapimi} at eight o’clock, a 
village situated at the foot of mountains of 
minerals, where they worked eight or nine 
mines. The mass of the people were naked 
and starved wretches. The proprietor of the 
mines gave us an elegant repast. Here the 
orders of Salcedo were explained to me by 
the captain. I replied that they excited my 
Jaughter, as there were disaffected persons 
sufficient to serve as guides should an army 
ever come into the country. 

Came on three miles farther, where were fig 
trees and a fruit called by the French La Grain, 
situated on a little stream which flowed 
through the gardens and formed a terrestrial 
paradise. Here we remained all day sleeping in 
the shade of the fig trees, and at night contin- 
ued our residence in the garden, We obliged 
the inhabitants with a ball, who expressed 
great anxiety for a relief from their present 
distressed state and a change of government. . 

12th May, Tuesday: Was awoke in the morn- 

1 Sombrerito. Coues. 


IgI 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


ing by the singing of the birds and the perfumes 
of the trees around. I attempted to send two 
of my soldiers to town, when they were over- 
taken by a dragoon and ordered back. They 
returned, when I again ordered them to go, and 
if a soldier attempted to stop them to take 
him off his horse and flog him. This I did as I 
conceived it was the duty of the captain to 
explain his orders relative to me, which he had 
not done, and I conceived that this would 
bring on an explanation. They were pursued 
by a dragoon through the town, who rode after 
them making use of ill language. They at- 
tempted to catch him but could not. As I had 
mentioned my intentions of sending my men to 
town after some stores to Captain Barelo and 
he had not made any objections, I conceived 
it was acting with duplicity to send men to 
watch the movements of my messengers. I 
therefore determined they should punish the 
dragoons unless their captain had candor 
sufficient to explain the reasons for his not 
wishing the men to go to the town, in which 
wish I should undoubtedly have acquiesced; 
but as he never mentioned the circumstance I 
was guardedly silent, and the affair never in- 
terrupted our harmony. 

We marched at five o’clock and came on 
fifteen miles and encamped without water. 
One mile on this side of the little village the 
road branches out into three, the right hand 
one by Pattos, Paras, Saltelo [Saltillo], etc., 


192 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


being the main road to Mexico [City] and Saint 
Antonio. The road which we took leaves all 
the villages a little to the right, passing only 
some plantations. The left-hand one goes im- 
mediately through the mountains to Monte- 
lovez, but is dangerous for small parties on 
account of the savages. This road is called the 
route by the Bolson of Maupeme, and was first 
traveled by Monsieur De Croix, afterwards 
viceroy of Peru. In passing from Chihuahua 
to Texas by this route you make in seven days 
what it takes you fifteen or twenty by the 
ordinary one, but it is very scarce of water, and 
your guards must either be so strong as to defy 
the Apaches or calculate to escape them by 
swiftness, for they fill those mountains, whence 
they continually carry on a predatory war 
against the Spanish settlements and caravans. 
We this day passed on to the territories of 
the Marquis de San Miq[gluel, who owns from 
the mountains of the Rio del Norte to some 
distance into the kingdom of Old Mexico. 
13th May, Wednesday: Came on to the river 
Brasses! [in which was the] Ranche de Saint 
Antonio, part of the marquis’ estate. My boy 
and self halted at the river Brasses to water 
our horses, having rode on ahead, and took the 
bridles from their mouths in order that they 
might drink freely, which they could not do 
with the Spanish bridles. The horse I rode had 
been accustomed to being held by his master 
1 The Rio Nasas. Coues. 


193 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


in a peculiar manner when bridled, and would 
not let me put it on again for a long time, when 
in the meantime my boy’s horse ran away and 
it was out of our power to catch him again. 
But when we atrived at the Ranche we soon 
had out a number of boys, who brought in the 
horse and all his different equipments, which 
were scattered on the route. This certainly 
was a strong proof of their honesty, and [it] 
did not go unrewarded. In the evening we gave 
them a ball on the green, according to custom. 
We here learned that one peck of corn with 
three pounds of meat per week was the allow- 
ance given a grown person. 

14th May, Thursday: Did not march un- 
til half-past four o’clock [p.m.]; about nine 
o’clock [A.m.] an officer arrived from St. Rosa! 
with twenty-four men and two Apaches in 
irons. They were noble-looking fellows, of 
large stature, and appeared by no means cast 
down by their misfortunes, although they knew 
their fate was [to be] transportation beyond the 
sea, never more to see their friends and rela- 
tions. Knowing, as I did, the intention of the 
Spaniards towards those people, I would have 
liberated them if in my power. I went near 
them and gave them to understand we were 
friends, and conveyed to them some articles 
which would be of service if chance offered. 

This day the thermometer stood at 30° 


1 About half way between Monclova and Presidio del 
Rio Grande. Coues. 


194 


he Southwestern Expedition 


Réaumur, 99%° Fahrenheit, and the dust 
and drought of the road obliged us to march 
in the night, when we came fifteen miles and 
encamped without water. Indeed, this road, 
which the general obliged us to take, is almost 
impassable at this season for want of water, 
whilst the other is plentifully supplied. 

15th May, Friday: Marched early and came 
on five miles, when we arrived at a pit dug in 
a hollow, which afforded a small quantity of 
muddy water for ourselves and beasts. Here 
we were obliged to remain all day in order to 
travel in the night, as our beasts could enjoy 
the benefit of water. Left this at half-past 
five o’clock and came on fifteen miles by 
eleven o’clock, when we encamped without 
water or food for our beasts. Passed a miser- 
able burned up soil. Distance twenty miles. 

16th May, Saturday: Marched two hours 
and arrived at a wretched habitation, where 
we drew water from a well for all the beasts. 
Marched in the evening and made fifteen miles 
farther. The right-hand road we left on this 
side of Maupeme [Mapimi], and joined it 
about four miles farther. Distance fifteen 
miles. 

17th May, Sunday: Marched, and about 
seven o’clock came in sight of Parras, which 
we left on the right, and halted at the hacienda 
of St. Lorenzo, a short league to the north of 
said village. At the hacienda of St. Lorenzo 
was a young priest who was extremely anxious 


195 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


for a change of government, and [who] came 
to our beds and conversed for hours on the 
subject. 

18th May, Monday: Marched early and 
came through a mountainous tract of country, 
but well watered and [with] houses situated 
here and there amongst the rocks. Joined the 
main road at a hacienda of _______ belonging 
to the Marquis de San Miaq[gluel, good gardens 
and fruit, also a fine stream. The mules did 
not arrive until late at night, when it had 
commenced raining. 

19th May, Tuesday: Did not march until 
three o’clock, the captain not being very well. 
He here determined to take the main road, not- 
withstanding the orders of General Salcedo. 
Came on ten miles. Met a deserter from Cap- 
tain Johnston’s company. He returned and 
came to the camp and begged of me to take 
him back to his company, but I would not give 
any encouragement to the scoundrel, only a 
little change, as he was without a farthing. 

20th May, Wednesday: Came to the ha- 
cienda of Pattos by nine o’clock. This is a 
handsome place, where the Marquis de San 
Miq|g]uel frequently spends his summers, the 
distance enabling him to come from Mexico 
in his coach in ten days. Here we met the 
Mexican post-rider going to Chewawa [Chihua- 
hua]. Don Hymie [Hyman], who had left us at 
Paras, joined in a coach and six, in which we 
came out to a little settlement called Florida, 


196 


Che Douthwestern Crpedition 


one league from Pattos, due north. Distance 
eighteen miles. 

The hacienda of Pattos was a square en- 
closure of about 300 feet, the building being 
one story high, but some of the apartments 
very elegantly furnished. In the center of the 
square was a jet d’eau which cast forth water © 
from eight spouts, extended from a colossean 
female form. From this fountain all the neigh- 
boring inhabitants got their supply of water. 
The marquis had likewise a very handsome 
church, which, with its ornaments, cost him at 
least. $20,000, to officiate in which he main- 
tained a little stiff, superstitious priest. In the 
rear of the palace, for so it might be called, was 
a fish-pond, in which were immense numbers of 
fine fish. The population of Florida is about 
2,000 souls. This was our nearest point to the 
city of Mexico. 

2tst May, Thursday: Marched down the 
water-course over a rough and stony road about 
ten miles, when we left it on the right and came 
on eight miles farther to a horse range of the 
marquis’s, where he had four of his soldiers 
as a guarda caballo.! Halted at half past nine 
o’clock. At this place? we had a spring of bad 
water. 

22d May, Friday: Marched at three o’clock 
and came on sixteen miles to a small shed, and 
in the afternoon to la Rancho, eight miles to 


1 That is, as herders. 
2Probably in the vicinity of Sauceda. Coues. 


197 


Zebulon Hi, Pike 


the left of the main road, near the foot of the 
mountain, where was a pond of water but no 
houses. Some Spanish soldiers were here. We 
left Pattos Mountain on our left and right, 
but here there was a cross mountain over 
which we were to pass in the morning. 

The marquis maintains 1,500 troops to pro- 
tect his vassals and property from the savages. 
They are all cavalry, and as well dressed and 
armed as the king’s, but are treated by the 
king’s troops as if vastly inferior. 

23d May, Saturday: Marched early and 
came to a spring in the mountain. 

24th May, Sunday: Marched at an early 
hour and passed through the [pass in the] 
mountain (scarcely any road) called the moun- 
tain of the Three Rivers. At the thirteenth 
mile [we] joined the main road, which we 
had left to our right on the twenty-second 
instant, and in one hour after came to the main 
Mexican road from the eastern provinces; 
thence northwest to the Rancho, nine miles 
from Montelovez, whence the captain sent in 
an express to give notice of our approach. 

25th May, Monday: In the afternoon Lieu- 
tenant Adams, commandant of the company 
of Montelovez, arrived in a coach and six 
to escort us to town, where we arrived about 
five o’clock. In the evening visited Captain de 
Ferara, the commandant of the troops of 
Cogquilla, and inspector of the five provinces. 

Lieutenant Adams, who commanded this 


198 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


place, was the son of an Irish engineer in the 
service of Spain. He had married a rich girl 
of the Passo del Norte and they lived here in 
elegance and style for the country. We put 
up at his quarters and were very hospitably 
entertained. 

26th May, Tuesday: Made preparations for 
marching the next day. I arose early, before 
any of our people were up, and walked nearly 
round the town and from the hill took a small 
survey with my pencil and a pocket compass, 
which I always carried with me. Returned and 
found them at breakfast, they having sent 
three or four of my men to search for me. The 
Spanish troops at this place were remarkably 
polite, always fronting and saluting when I 
passed. This I attributed to their comman- 
dant, Lieutenant Adams. 

27th May, Wednesday: Marched at seven 
o'clock after taking an affectionate leave of 
Don Hyman, and at half past twelve arrived at 
the hacienda of Don Melcher, situated on the 
same stream of Montelovez. 

Don Melcher was a man of very large fortune, 
polite, generous, and friendly. He had in his 
service a man who had deserted from Captain 
Lockwood’s company, First Regiment of infan- 
try, by the name of Pratt. From this man he 
had acquired a considerable quantity of crude 
undigested information relative to the United 
States, and when he met with us his thirst 
after knowledge of our laws and institutions 


199 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


appeared to be insatiable. He caused a fine 
large sheep to be killed and presented tomymen. 

28th May, Thursday: Marched early and 
arrived at Encina Hacienda! at ten o’clock. 
This place was owned by Don Barego. 

When we arrived at the hacienda of Encina 
I found a youth of eighteen sitting in the house 
quite genteelly dressed, whom I immediately 
recognized from his physiognomy to be an 
American, and entered into conversation with 
him. He expressed great satisfaction at meet- 
ing a countryman, and we had a great deal of 
conversation. He sat at a table with us and 
partook of a cold collation of fruits and con- 
fectionery, but I was much surprised to learn 
shortly after we quit the table that he was a 
deserter from our army, on which I questioned 
him and he replied that his name was Griffith; 
[that] he had enlisted in Philadelphia, arrived 
at New Orleans, and deserted as soon as pos- 
sible; that the Spaniards had treated him much 
better than his own countrymen, and that he 
should never return. I was extremely aston- 
ished at his insolence, and mortified that I 
should have been betrayed into any polite 
conduct towards the scoundrel. I told him 
that it was astonishing he should have had the 
impertinence to address himself to me, knowing 
that I was an American officer. He muttered 
something about being in a country where he 
was protected, etc., on which I told him [that] 

1 At or near the present town of Encinas. Coues. 


200 


he Southwestern Expedition 


if he again opened his mouth to me I would 
instantly chastise him, notwithstanding his 
supposed protection. He was silent, and I 
called up one of my soldiers and told him in 
his hearing that if he attempted to mix with 
them to turn him out of company, which they 
executed by leading him to the door of their 
room a short time after, when he entered it. 
When dinner was nearly ready I sent a message 
to the proprietor that we assumed no right to 
say whom he should introduce to his table, but 
that we should think it a great indignity offered 
to a Spanish officer to attempt to set him down 
at the same board with a deserter from their 
army; and that if the man who was at the table 
in the morning was to make his appearance 
again we should decline eating at it. He re- 
plied, that it was [an] accident which [had] 
produced the event of the morning; that he 
was sorry our feelings had been injured; and 
that he would take care he did not appear 
again whilst we were there. 

Our good friend Don Melcher here overtook 
us, and passed the evening with us. 

This day we passed the last mountains and 
again entered the great Mississippi Valley, it be- 
ing six months and thirteen days since we first 
camein sight of them. Distance twenty miles. 

29th May, Friday: Marched at seven o’clock 
and came to the river Millada! and [a] rancho.? 


1 The main fork of Sabinas River. Coues. 
2 At the present site of Alamo. Coues. 


201 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


30th May, Saturday: Marched at five o’clock 
and arrived at the river Sabine at eight. 
Forded it. Marched in the evening at four 
o’clock, at ten encamped at the second ridge 
without water. Distance twenty-seven miles. 

31st May, Sunday: Marched early, and 
at nine o’clock arrived at a rancho [and] a 
fine running water. Course east and west. 
Marched eight miles farther to a point of 
woods and encamped. No water. Distance 
twenty-three miles. 

1st June, Monday: Arrived at the Presidio 
Rio Grande! at eight o’clock. This place was 
the position to which our friend Barelo was 
ordered, and which had been very highly 
spoken of to him, but he found himself miser- 
ably mistaken, for it was with the greatest 
difficulty we obtained anything to eat, which 
mortified him extremely. When at Chihua- 
hua, General Salcedo had asked me if I had 
not lost a man by desertion, to which I replied 
in the negative. He then informed me that 
an American had arrived at the Presidio Rio 
Grande in the last year: that he had at first 
confined him, but that he was now released 
and practicing physic, and that he wished me 
to examine him on my arrival. I therefore 
had him sent for. The moment he entered the 
room I discovered he never had received a 
liberal education, or been accustomed to pol- 


1 Forty miles below Eagle Pass. Coues. 


202 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


ished society. I told him the reason that I had 
requested to see him, and that I had it in my 
power to serve him if I found him a character 
worthy of interference. 

He then related the following story: That 
his name was Martin Henderson; that he was 
born in Rockbridge County, state of Virginia; 
that he had been brought up a farmer, but 
that, coming early to the state of Kentucky 
and [to] Tennessee, he had acquired a taste for 
a frontier life, and that in the spring of 1806 
himself and four companions had left the Sa- 
line in the district of Saint Genevieve, Upper 
Louisiana, in order to penetrate through the 
woods to the province of Texas; that his com- 
panions had left him on the White River, and 
that he had continued on; that in swimming 
some western branch his horse sunk under 
him, and it was with difficulty he had made the 
shore with his gun. Here he waited two or 
three days until his horse rose, and he then got 
his saddle bags, but that all his notes on the 
country, courses, etc., were destroyed. He 
then proceeded on foot for a few days, when 
he was met by thirty or forty Osage warriors, 
who, on his telling them he was going to the 
Spaniards, were about to kill him, but on his 
saying he would go to the Americans they held 
a consultation over him and finally seized on 
his clothes and divided them between them; 
then his pistols, compass, dirk, and watch, 
which they took to pieces and hung in their 


203 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


noses and ears; then [they] stripped him naked, 
and round his body they found. a belt with gold 
pieces sewed in it. This they also took, and 
finally seized on his gun and ammunition, and 
were marching off to leave him in that situa- 
tion, but he followed them, thinking it better 
to be killed than [to be] left in that state to die 
by hunger and cold. The savages after some 
time halted, and one pulled off an old pair of 
leggings and gave him, another mockinsons, 
and a third a buffalo robe, and the one who 
had carried his heavy rifle had by this time be- 
come tired of his prize (they never using rifles) 
and they counted him out twenty-five charges 
of powder and ball, then sent two Indians with 
him who put him on a war trace, which they 
said led to American establishments; and as 
soon as the Indians left him he directed his 
course, as he supposed, for Saint Antonio. He 
then killed deer and made himself some clothes. 
He proceeded on and expended all his ammuni- 
tion three days before he struck the Grand 
Road, nearly at the Rio Grande. He further 
added that he had discovered two mines, one 
of silver and the other of gold, the situation of 
which he particularly described, but that the 
general had taken the samples from him; that 
he would not attempt to pass himself on us for 
a physician, and hoped, as he only used sim- 
ples and was careful to do no harm, we would 
not betray him. He further added that since 
his being in the country he had made (from 


204 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


information) maps of all the adjacent country, 
but that they had been taken from him. 

I had early concluded that he was an agent 
of Burr’s, and was revolving in my mind 
whether I should denounce him as such to the 
commandant, but felt reluctant [to do so] from 
an apprehension that he might be innocent, 
when one of my men came in and informed me 
that it was Trainer, who had killed Major 
Bashier in the wilderness between Natchez and 
Tennessee when he was his hireling. He shot 
him when taking a nap at noon through the 
head with his own pistols. The governor of the 
state and the major’s friends offered a very 
considerable reward for his apprehension, which 
obliged him to quit the state, and with an 
Amazonian woman who handled arms and 
hunted like a savage he retreated to the source 
of the White River, but being routed from 
that retreat by Captain Maney [Many], of the 
United States army, and a party of Cherokees, 
he and his female companion bore west and 
she, proving to be pregnant, was left by him in 
the desert and (I was informed) arrived on the 
settlements of Red River, but by what means 
is to me unknown. The articles and money 
taken from him by the Osages were the prop- 
erty of the deceased major. I then reported 
the circumstance to Captain Barelo, who had 
him immediately confined until the will of 
Governor Cordero was known, who informed 
me when [I was] at Saint Antonio [that] he 


205 


Zebulon HU, Pike 


would have him sent to some place of perpetual 
confinement in the interior. Thus vengeance 
has overtaken the ingrate and murderer when 
he least expected it. 

In the evening we went to see some per- 
formers on the slack rope, who were in no wise 
extraordinary in their performances except in 
language, which would almost bring a blush on 
the cheek of the most abandoned of the female 
sex in the United States. 

2d June, Tuesday: In the day time [we] were 
endeavoring to regulate our watches by my 
compass, and in an instant that my back was 
turned some person stole it. I could by no 
means recover it, and I had strong suspicions 
that the theft was approved, as the instrument 
had occasioned great dissatisfaction. 

This day the captain went out to dine with 
some monks who would have thought it prof- 
anation to have had us as their guests, not- 
withstanding the priest of the place had 
escorted us round the town and to all the mis- 
sions, and we found him a very communicative, 
liberal, and intelligent man. We saw no re- 
source for a dinner but in the inventive genius 
of a little Frenchman who had accompanied us 
from Chihuahua, where he had been officiating 
one year as cook to the general, of whom he 
gave us many interesting anecdotes, and in fact 
he was of infinite service to us. We supported 
him and he served us as cook, interpreter, etc. 
It was astonishing with what zeal he strove to 


206 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


acquire news and information for us, and as he 
had been four times through the provinces he 
had acquired considerable knowledge of the 
country, people, etc. He went off and in a very 
short time returned with tablecloth, plates, a 
dinner of three or four courses, [and] a bottle of 
wine, with a pretty girl to attend on the table. 
We inquired by what magic he had brought it 
about, and found he had been to one of the 
officers and notified [him] that it was the 
wish of the commandant that he should sup- 
ply the two Americans with a decent dinner (this 
we explained to Barelo in the evening, and 
he laughed heartily) which was done, but we 
took care to compensate them for their trouble. 

We parted from the captain with regret, and 
assurances of remembrance. Departed at five 
o’clock, escorted by Ensign —______ and 
men, and came on to the Rio Grande, which we 
passed and encamped at a rancho on the other 
side. Distance seven miles. 

3d June, Wednesday: The mosquitoes, which 
had commenced the first night on this side 
Montelovez, now had become very trouble- 
some. This day saw the first horse-flies. Saw 
some wild horses. Came on in the open plain, 
and in a dry time, when there was no water. 
Distance thirty miles. 

4th June, Thursday: Came sixteen miles 
to a pond and dined. Great sign of wild 
horses; in the afternoon to the river Noissour,} 

1 The Nueces River. 


207 


Zebulon fA, Pike 


swimming [it] where we arrived, although not 
more than ten steps wide. Distance thirty-six 
miles. 

5th June, Friday: After losing two horses in 
passing the river, the water having fallen so 
that we forded, [we] crossed and continued our 
route. Passed two herds of wild horses, who 
left the road for us. Halted at a pond on the 
left of the road, fifteen miles, where we saw the 
first oak since we entered New Mexico, and 
this was scrub oak. Passed many deer yester- 
day and today. Came on to a small creek at 
night, where we met a party of the company 
of Saint Fernandez returning from the line. 
Distance thirty-one miles. 

6th June, Saturday: Marched early and met 
several parties of troops returning from Texas, 
where they had been sent to reinforce when our 
troops were near the line. Immense numbers of 
cross-roads made by the wild horses. Killed a 
wild hog, which on examination I found to 
be very different from the tame breed, smaller, 
brown, long hair, and short legs. They are to 
be found in all parts between Red River and 
the Spanish settlements. 

Passed an encampment made by the Lee 
Panes [Lipans]. Met one of said nation with 
his wife. In the afternoon struck the wood- 
land, which was the first we had been in from 
the time we left the Osage nation. Distance 
thirty-nine miles. 

7th June, Sunday. Came on fifteen miles to 


208 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


the river Mariano,! the line between Texas and 
Cogquilla—a pretty little stream [on which 
was a| rancho. From thence in the afternoon 
to Saint Antonio. We halted at the mission of 
Saint Joseph; received in a friendly manner by 
the priest of the mission and others. 

We were met out of Saint Antonio about 
three miles by Governors Cordero and Her- 
rara,inacoach. We repaired to their quarters, 
where we were received like their children. 
Cordero informed me that he had discretionary 
orders as to the mode of my going out of the 
country; that he therefore wished me to choose 
my time, mode, etc., and that any sum of 
money I might want was at my service; that 
in the meantime Robinson and myself would 
make his quarters our home; and that he had 
caused to be vacated and prepared a house 
immediately opposite for the reception of my 
men. In the evening his levee was attended by 
a crowd of officers and priests, at which were 
Father M’Guire and Dr. Zerbin. After supper 
we went to the public square, where might be 
seen the two governors joined in a dance with 
people who in the daytime would approach 
them with reverence and awe. 

We were here introduced to the sister of 
Lieutenant Malgares’ wife, who was one of 
the finest women we saw. She was married to 
a Captain Ugarte, to whom we had letters of 
introduction. 

1 The Medina River. Coues, 


209 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


8th June, Monday: Remained at Saint 
Antonio. 

oth June, Tuesday: A large party dined at 
Governor Cordero’s, who gave as his first 
toast, “‘The President of the United States— 
Vive la.” I returned the compliment by toast- 
ing “His Catholic Majesty.” These toasts 
were followed by “General Wilkinson,” and 
one of the company then gave, “ Those gentle- 
men; their safe and happy arrival in their own 
country, their honorable reception, and the 
continuation of the good understanding which 
exists between the two countries.” 

roth June, Wednesday: A large party at the 
governor’s to dinner. He gave as a toast, “My 
companion, Herrara.”’ 

r1th June, Thursday: Preparing to march 
tomorrow. We this evening had a conversation 
with the two governors, wherein they exhibited 
an astonishing knowledge of the political char- 
acter of our [Chief] Executive, and the local 
interests of the different parts of the Union. 

t2th June, Friday: One of the captains from 
the kingdom of Leon having died, we were in- 
vited to attend the burial, and accompanied 
the two governors in their coach, where we had 
an opportunity of viewing the solemnity of the 
interment, agreeably to the ritual of the 
Spanish church, attended by the military hon- 
ors which were conferred on the deceased by 
his late brethren in arms. Governor Cordero 
gave the information of my intended expedi- 


210 


Che Douthwestern Expedition 


tion to the commandant-general as early as 
July, the same month I took my departure. 
His information was received via Natchez. 

13th June, Saturday: This morning there 
were marched 200 dragoons for the sea-coast 
to look out for the English, and this evening 
Colonel Cordero was to have marched to join 
them. We marched at seven o’clock, Governor 
Cordero taking us out in his coach about 
two leagues, accompanied by Father M’Guire, 
DreZerbin;ete: 

It may not be improper to mention here 
something of Father M’Guire and Dr. 
Zerbin, who certainly treated us with all im- 
aginable attention while [we were] at Saint 
Antonio. The former was an Irish priest who 
formerly resided on the coast above [New] 
Orleans, and was noted for his hospitable and 
social qualities. On the cession of Louisiana 
he followed the standard of the king, his 
master, who never suffers an old servant to be 
neglected. He received at Cuba an establish- 
ment as chaplain to the mint of Mexico, whence 
the instability of human affairs carried him 
to Saint Antonio. He was a man of chaste, 
classical taste, observation, and research. 

Dr. Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez, 
but in consequence of pecuniary embarrass- 
ments emigrated to the Spanish territories. 
Being a young man of handsome person and in- 
sinuating address, he had obtained the good- 
will of Governor Cordero, who had conferred 


211 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


on him an appointment in the king’s hospital 
and many other advantages by which he might 
have made a fortune. He had recently com- 
mitted some very great indiscretions, by which 
he had nearly lost the favor of Colonel Cordero, 
but whilst we were there he was treated with 
attention. 

I will here attempt to portray a faint re- 
semblance of the characters of the two gover- 
nors whom we found at Saint Antonio; but 
[to] whose super-excellent qualities it would 
require the pen of a master to do justice. 

Don Antonio Cordero is about five feet ten 
inches in height, fifty years of age, fair com- 
plexion, and blue eyes. He wore his hair 
turned back, and in every part of his deport- 
ment was legibly written “the soldier.” He yet 
possessed an excellent constitution and a body 
which appeared to be neither impaired by the 
fatigues of the various campaigns he had made 
nor disfigured by the numerous wounds re- 
ceived from the enemies of his king. He was 
one of the select officers who had been chosen 
by the court of Madrid to be sent to America 
about thirty-five years since to discipline and 
organize the Spanish provincials, and had been 
employed in all the various kingdoms and prov- 
inces of New Spain. Through the parts which 
we explored he was universally beloved and 
respected; and when I pronounce him by far 
the most popular man in the internal provinces 
I risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the 


212 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


Latin and French languages well, [and] was 
generous, gallant, brave, and sincerely at- 
tached to his king and country. Those nu- 
merous qualifications have advanced him to 
the rank of colonel of cavalry and governor of 
[the provinces of] Cogquilla and Texas. His 
usual residence was Montelovez, which he had 
embellished a great deal, but since [our] taking 
possession of Louisana he had removed to 
Saint Antonio in order to be nearer the frontier, 
to be able to apply the remedy to any evil 
which might arise from the collision of our 
lines. 

Don Simon de Herrara is about five feet 
eleven inches high, has a sparkling black eye, 
dark complexion and hair. He was born in the 
Canary Islands, served in the infantry in 
France, Spain, and Flanders, and speaks the 
French language well, and a little of the 
English. He is engaging in his conversation 
with his equals, polite and obliging to his in- 
feriors, and in all his actions one of the most 
gallant and accomplished men I ever knew. 

He possesses a great knowledge of mankind 
from his experience in various countries and 
societies, and knows how to employ the genius 
of each of his subordinates to advantage. He 
had been in the United States during the presi- 
dency of General Washington, and had been 
introduced to that hero, of whom he spoke in 
terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieu- 
tenant-colonel of infantry, and governor of the 


213 


Zebulon HU, Pike 


kingdom of New Leon. His seat of government 
is Mont Elrey [Monterey]; and probably, if 
ever a chief was adored by his people, it is 
Herrara. When his time expired last, he im- 
mediately repaired to Mexico, attended by 300 
of the most respectable people of his govern- 
ment, who carried with them the sighs, tears, 
and prayers of thousands that he might be 
continued in that government. The viceroy 
thought proper to accord to their wishes pro 
tempore, and the king has since confirmed his 
nomination. 

When I saw him he had been about one year 
absent, during which time the citizens of rank 
in Mont Elrey had not suffered a marriage 
or baptism to take place in any of their fam- 
ilies, until their common father could be there 
to consent and give joy to the occasion by his 
presence. What greater proof could be given 
of their esteem and love? 7 

In drawing a parallel between the two 
friends, I should say that Cordero was the 
man of greatest reading, and that Herrara 
possessed the greatest knowledge of the world. 
Cordero has lived all his life a bachelor. Her- 
rara married an English lady in early youth, at 
Cadiz, who by her suavity of manners makes 
herself as much beloved and esteemed by the 
ladies as her noble husband does by the men. 
By her he has several children, one now an 
officer in the service of his royal master. 

The two friends agree perfectly in one point, ~ 


214 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


their hatred to tyranny of every kind; and ina 
secret determination never to see that flour- 
ishing part of the New World subject to any 
other European lord, except him whom they 
think their honor and loyalty bound to defend 
with their lives and fortunes. But should 
Bonaparte seize on European Spain, I risk 
nothing in asserting [that] those two gentle- 
men would be the first to throw off the yoke, 
draw their swords, and assert the independence 
of their country. 

Before I close this subject it may not be im- 
proper to state that we owe [it] to Governor 
Herrara’s prudence that we are not now en- 
gaged in a war with Spain. This will be ex- 
plained by the following anecdote, which he 
related in the presence of his friend Cordero, 
and which was confirmed by him. When the 
difficulties commenced on the Sabine! the 
commandant-general and the viceroy consulted 
each other, and they mutually determined to 
maintain what they deemed the dominions of 
their master inviolate. The viceroy therefore 
ordered Herrara to join Cordero with 1,300 
men, and both the viceroy and General Sal- 
" cedo ordered Cordero to cause our troops to be 
attacked, should they pass the Rio Oude. 
Those orders were positively reiterated to 
Herrara, the actual commanding officer of the 
Spanish army on the frontiers, and gave rise 


1The Sabine River is on the boundary between 
Louisiana and Texas. 


215 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


to the many messages which he sent to General 
Wilkinson when he was advancing with our 
troops; but finding they were not attended to, 
he called a council of war on the question to 
attack or not, when it was given as their opin- 
ion, that they should immediately commence 
a predatory warfare, but avoid a general en- 
gagement; yet, notwithstanding the orders of 
the viceroy, the commandant-general, Gover- 
nor Cordero’s and the opinion of his officers, 
he had the firmness (or temerity) to enter into 
the agreement with General Wilkinson which 
at present exists relative to our boundaries on 
that frontier. On his return he was received 
with coolness by Cordero, and they both made 
their communication to their superiors. ‘Until 
an answer was received,” said Herrara, “I 
experienced the most unhappy period of my 
life, conscious I had served my country faith- 
fully, at the same time I had violated every 
principle of military duty.” At length the 
answer arrived, and what was it, but the 
thanks of the viceroy and the commandant- 
general for having pointedly disobeyed their 
orders, with assurances that they would 
represent his services in exalted terms to the 
king. What could have produced this change 
of sentiment is to me unknown, but the letter 
was published to the army, and confidence 
again restored between the two chiefs and the 
troops. 

Our company consisted of Lieutenant Jn. 


216 


Che Douthwestern Erpedition 


Echararria, who commanded the escort, Cap- 
tain Eugene Marchon, of New Orleans, and 
Father José Angel Cabaso, who was bound 
to the camp at or near the Trinity, with a 
suitable proportion of soldiers. We came on 
sixteen miles to a place called the Beson, where 
we halted until the mules came up. Marched 
again at four o’clock, and arrived at the river 
of Guadalupe! at eight o’clock at night. Dis- 
tance thirty miles. 

14th June, Sunday: When we left Saint 
Antonio everything appeared to be in a flour- 
ishing and improving state, owing to the ex- 
amples and encouragement given to industry, 
politeness, and civilization by their excellent 
governor, Cordero, and his colleague, Herrara; 
also the large body of troops maintained at 
that place in consequence of the difference 
existing between the United States and Spain. 

Came on to the Saint Mark in the morning. 
In the afternoon came on fifteen miles farther, 
but was late, owing to our having taken the 
wrong road. Distance thirty miles. 

15th June, Monday: Marched twenty miles 
in the morning to a small pond, which is dry 
in a dry season, where we halted. Here com- 
menced the oak timber, it having been mes- 
quit in general from Saint Antonio. Prairie 
like the Indiana Territory. In the afternoon 
came on six miles farther to a creek, where we 
encamped early. Distance twenty-six miles. 

1 Tn the vicinity of the town of New Braunfels. Coues. 


217 


Zebulon HA. Pike 


16th June, Tuesday: Marched early, and 
at eight o’clock arrived at Red River. Here 
was a small Spanish station and several lodges 
of Tancards [Tonkawa], tall, handsome men, 
but the most naked savages I ever yet saw 
without exception. They complained much of 
their situation. In the afternoon passed over 
hilly, stony land; occasionally saw pine timber. 
Encamped on a small run. Distance twenty- 
six miles. Killed one deer. 

r7th June, Wednesday: Came on by nine 
o'clock to a large encampment of Tancards, 
more than forty lodges. Their poverty was as 
remarkable as their independence. Immense 
herds of horses, etc. I gave a Camanche and 
[a] Tancard each a silk handkerchief, and a 
recommendation to the commandant at Natch- 
itoches. In the afternoon came on three hours 
and encamped on a hill at a creek on the 
right hand side of the road. Met a large herd 
of mules escorted by four soldiers; the lieuten- 
ant took some money from them which they 
had in charge. Distance thirty miles. 

18th June, Thursday: Rode on. until half 
past ten o’clock, when we arrived at the river 
Brassos [Brazos]. Here is a stockade guard 
of one corporal, six men, and a ferry boat. 
Swam our horses over. One was drowned and 
several others near it, owing to their striking 
each other with their feet. We then came on 
about two miles on this side of a bayou called 
the Little Brassos, which is only a branch of 


218 


Che Southwestern Expedition — 


the other, and which makes an impassable 
swamp at certain seasons between them. Dis- 
tance thirty-one miles. 

roth June, Friday: Came on through prairies 
and woods alternately twenty miles to a small 
creek [called] Corpus Christi; well wooded, 
rich land. In the afternoon came on ten miles 
and passed a creek which in high water is 
nearly impassable [for] four miles. Overflows 
[in] swamps, ponds, etc. Encamped about one 
mile on this side on high land to the right of 
the road. Met the mail, Indians, and others. 
Distance thirty miles. 

20th June, Saturday: Came on 16 miles in 
the morning—passed several herds of mustangs 
or wild horses; good land, ponds and small 
dry creeks, prairie, and woods alternately. It 
rained considerably We halted to dry our 
baggage long before night. Distance twenty 
miles. 

21st June, Sunday: Came on to the river 
Trinity by eight o’clock. Here were stationed 
two captains, two lieutenants, and three en- 
signs with nearly roo men, all sick, one scarcely 
able to assist the other. Met a number of 
runaway negroes, some French and Irishmen. 
Received information of Lieutenant Wilkin- 
son’s safe arrival. Crossed with all our horses 
and baggage with much difficulty. Distance 
twenty miles. 

22d June, Monday: Marched the mules and 
horses in the forenoon, but did not depart 


219 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


ourselves until three o’clock p.m. Father José 
Angel Cabaso separated from us at this place 
for the post of ______., where he was des- 
tined. Passed thick woods and a few small 
prairies with high rich grass. Sent a dispatch 
to Nacogdoches. Distance twenty-two miles. 

23d June, Tuesday: Came on twenty miles 
in the forenoon to a small creek of standing 
water; good land and well timbered. Met a 
sergeant from Nacogdoches. In the afternoon 
made twenty miles and crossed the river 
Natchez [Netches], running N. W. & S. E., 
twenty yards wide; belly deep to horses at 
that time, but sometimes impassable. Two 
miles on this side encamped on a hill in a little” 
prairie; mules and loads arrived at twelve 
o’clock. The sandy soil and pine timber 
began again this afternoon, but good land 
near the river. Distance forty miles. 

24th June, Wednesday: The horses came up 
this morning; lost six over night. We marched 
early and in fifteen miles came to the river 
Angeline, about the width of the Natchez, 
running N. & S. Good land on its borders. 
Two miles farther was a settlement of Barr and 
Davenport’s, where were three of our lost 
horses. One mile farther found two more of 
our horses, where we halted for dinner. 
Marched at four o’clock, and at half past eight 
arrived at Nacogdoches. Were politely re- 
ceived by the adjutant and inspector, and 
Captain Herrara, Davenport, etc. This part 


220 


Che Southwestern Erpedition 


of the country is well watered, but sandy; 
hilly soil, pine, scrub oak, etc. Distance thirty- 
seven miles. 

25th June, Thursday: Spent in reading a 
gazette from the United States, etc. A large 
party at the adjutant and inspector’s to din- 
ner. First toast, “The President of the United 
estates.’ Second, “The King of Spain.” 
Third, ‘Governors Herrara and Cordero.”’ 

26th June, Friday: Made preparations to 
march the next day. Saw an old acquaintance, 
also Lorrimier’s! son-in-law from the district 
of Cape Jerardeay [Girardeau]. Dined with 
the commandant and spent the evening [at] 
Davenport’s. 

27th June, Saturday: Marched after dinner 
and came only twelve miles. Was escorted by 


1 Louis Lorimer was a notable figure in the West for 
almost half a century ending with his death in 1812. 
He was born in Canada, and about the year 1769 he 
came with his father to the region of western Ohio, 
where he engaged in the Indian trade and acquired a 
commanding influence over the Shawnee and Delaware 
tribes. During the Revolution his trading house was a 
notable center of British-Indian activity. Among other 
exploits, Lorimer in 1778 led a war-party into Kentucky 
which captured Daniel Boone. In 1782 an army of 
Kentuckians led by George Rogers Clark destroyed 
Lorimer’s Station and he retired to the Glaize River. A 
few years later he became financially involved and ab- 
sconded to Spanish Louisiana, There he entered upon a 
career of renewed prosperity, acquired much influence 
with the Spanish authorities, and served for many years 
as commandant of Cape Girardeau District. 


221 


Zebulon HM. Pike 


Lieutenant Guodiana and a military party. 
Mr. Davenport’s brother-in-law, who was tak- 
ing in some money, also accompanied us. 

Don Francis Viana, adjutant and inspector 
of the internal provinces, who commanded at 
Nacogdoches, is an old and veteran officer, and 
was one of those who came to America at the 
same time with Colonel Cordero, but possess- 
ing a mind of frankness he unfortunately spoke 
his opinions too freely in some instances, which, 
finding their way to court, prevented his pro- 
motion. But he is highly respected by his 
superiors, and looked up to as a model of 
military conduct by his inferiors. He un- 
fortunately does not possess flexibility suff- 
cient to be useful in the present state of the 
Spanish kingdoms. He is the officer who 
caused Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman to 
return from their expedition on the Red River. 

28th June, Sunday: Marched early, and at 
nine o’clock crossed the little river called 

, from whence we pushed on in order 
to arrive at the house of _______, a F rench- 
man,_______ miles distant from the Sabine. 
We stopped at a house on the road, where the 
lieutenant informed me an American by the 
name of Johnson lived, but was surprised 
to find he had crossed the line with his family, 
and a French family in his place. When we 
began conversing with them they were much 
alarmed, thinking we had come to examine 
them, and [they] expressed great attachment 


222 


Che Southwestern Expedition 


to the Spanish government, but [they were] 
somewhat astonished to find I was an American 
officer, and on my companions stepping out 
[they] expressed themselves in strong terms of 
hatred to the Spanish nation. I excused them 
for their weakness, and gave them a caution. 
Fine land, well watered and timbered, hickory, 
oak, sugar-tree, etc. Distance forty miles. 
29th June, Monday: Our baggage and horses 
came up about ten o’clock, when we dispatched 
them on. Marched ourselves at two o’clock, 
and arrived at the river Sabine by five. Here 
we saw the cantonment of the Spanish troops, 
when commanded by Colonel Herrara on the 
late affair between the two governments. 
Crossed the Sabine River! and came about one 
league on this side to a little prairie, where we 
encamped. Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana 
and our Spanish escort. And here I think 
proper to bear testimony to the politeness, 
civility, and attention of all the officers who 
at different periods and in different provinces 
commanded my escort (but in a particular 
manner to Malgares and Barelo, who ap- 
peared studious to please and accommodate, 
all that lay in their power), also the obliging, 
mild dispositions evinced in all instances by 
their rank and file. On this side of the Sabine 
I went up to a house where I found ten or 
fifteen Americans hovering near the line in 


1 Then the boundary between the possessions of Spain 
and of the United States in this region. 


223. 


Zebulon HA, Pike 


order to embrace an opportunity of carrying 
on some illicit commerce with the Spaniards, 
who on their side were equally eager. Here we 
found Tharp and Sea, who had been old ser- 
geants in General Wayne’s army. Distance 
fifteen miles. 

30th June, Tuesday: Marched early and 
came on to a house at a small creek fifteen 
miles, where lived a Dutch family named 
Faulk, where we left a small roan horse which 
had given out. Marched twelve miles farther 
to a large bayou, where had been an encamp- 
ment of our troops, which I recognized by its 
form, and [I] took pleasure in imagining the 
position of the general’s marquee and the 
tents of my different friends and acquaint- 
ances. Distance twenty-eight miles. 

1st July, Wednesday: Finding that a horse 
of Doctor Robinson’s, which had come all the 
way from Chihuahua, could not proceed, [Ij 
was obliged to leave him here. Yesterday and 
today passed many Choctaws, whose clothing, 
furniture, etc., evidently marked the superior- 
ity of situation of those who bordered on our 
frontiers to those of the naked, half-starved 
wretches whom we found hanging round the 
Spanish settlements. Came on, and passed a 
string of huts supposed to be built by our 
troops, and at a small run a fortified camp but 
a half mile from the hill, where anciently stood 
the village Adyes. ; 

We proceeded on to a spring, where we 


224 


Che Douthiwestern Expedition 


halted for our loads, and finding the horses 
much fatigued and not able to proceed, left 
them and baggage and proceeded on, when we 
arrived at Natchitoches about four o’clock Pp. M. 

Language cannot express the gaiety of my 
heart when I once more beheld the standard of 
my country waved aloft! “All hail,” cried I, 
“the ever sacred name of country, in which is 
embraced that of kindred, friends, and every 
other tie which is dear to the soul of man!!” 
Was affectionately received by Colonel Free- 
man, Captains Strong and Wollstonecraft, 
Lieutenant Smith, and all the officers of the 
post. 


225 


Index 


Fnder 


ADAMS, Lieut. , commandant of Monclova, meets 
Pike, 198; career sketched, 199. 

Albuquerque, expedition reaches, 150-52. 

Allencaster, Governor , Pike tenders information 
to, 116; sends party to meet Pike, 121; invitation 
to, 122-23; interview with Pike, 137-44; con- 
fiscates papers, 140-41. 

Angeline, expedition passes, 220. 

Apache Indians, warfare with Spaniards, 163, 193-94; 
of Fort Elisiaira, independence, 167. 

Aqua Caliente (L’eau Chaud, Warm Spring), expedi- 
tion visits, 129; described, 129-30; Dr. Robinson 
BE 55 

Aqua Caliente Creek, expedition descends, 130. 

Arkansas River, expedition reaches, 57, 59; described, 
59-60; expedition crosses, 60; camps at Pawnee 
Fork, 61; navagability, 71-73; mistaken for Red 
River, 88. See also Neosho River. 

BARELO, Captain , assumes Charge of Americans, 
188; punctuality of, 189; duplicity, 192; confines 
murderer, 205; Pike bids farewell, 207; courtesy 
acknowledged, 223. 

Baroney (A. F. Vasquez), career sketched, 7; pursues 
horse, 39; visits Pawnee village, 49, 52-53; left in 
charge of baggage, 100. 

Barr,- , expedition reaches settlement of, 220. 

Bartholemew, , entertains Pike, 138, 142; com- 
panion of, 1453 farewell to, 140. 

Bashier, Major , murder of, 202-206. 

Belle Oiseau, Indian chief, killed, 23; son of, accom- 
panies Pike, 36; leaves expedition, 56. 

Big Manitou River, Indians on, 4. 


229 


Jnder 


Big Osage Indians, see Osage Indians and Little Osage 
Indians. 

Big Soldier, anger of, 11-12. 

Black Mountains, expedition passes, 162. 

Blanchette, Louis, founder of St. Charles, 4. 

Boone, Daniel, resident of Charette, 6; captured, 221. 

Brazos (Brassos) River, expedition crosses, 218. 

Brelaw, name for badger, 63. 

Brown, Clarissa, marries Zebulon M., Pike, xx. 

Brown, , on journey to Pike’s Peak, 76-79; sedi- 
tious conduct, 106; rebuked, 107—108. 

Browne, Dr. Joseph, career sketched, 27. 

Buffalo, numbers, 67-68; quality of meat, 68. 

Burling, , mission of, to Mexico, 178. 

Burr, Aaron, relations with Gen. Wilkinson, xiii, xv—xvi; 
brother-in-law of Joseph Browne, 27; news of con- 
spiracy received, 169. 

CaBaso, Father José Angel, traveling companion of 
Pike, 217; leaves expedition, 220. 

Caberarie, Don Antonio, entertains Lieut. Pike, 175 
£77, FIG. 

Caberarie, Sefiora Maria, entertains Americans, 175. 

Cabrie, name for antelope, 37. 

Canals, near Albuquerque, 152. 

Caracterish, Pawnee chief, hospitalities between, and 
Pike, 46. 

Carrizal (Carracal), expedition reaches, 168. 

Caso Calvo, Marquis of, dispute with’ provincial 
governor, 144. 

Charette, history sketched, 5-6; Pike reaches, 7-8. 

Chartran (Chartrand, Chartron), Joseph, syndic of 
Charette, 8. 

Cheveux Blanche (White Hair), Pike sends letter to, 
22; holds council with, 26-27; spends night with, 
32; reprimands Tutasuggy, 28-29; supplies horses, 
30; son deserts expedition, 36. 

Cheyenne Mountain, Pike ascends, 78. 

Chihuahua, Pike ordered to proceed to, 141; reaches, 
170; leaves, 185. 

Choctaw Indians, expedition encounters, 224. 


230 


Junbder 


Chouteau, C., Pike meets, 32. 

Chouteau, Pierre, establishes Fort Carondelet, 24. 
Christmas, celebration of, 90-92. 

Claiborne, Wm. C. C., career sketched, 176. 

Clark, George Rogers, destroys Lorimier’s station, 221. 
Clark, Capt. William, news of return of, 51. 

Colly, Solomon, as interpreter, 139; farewell to Pike, 


144. 

Comanche Indians, friendly relations with established, 
xiv. 

Conchos River, Pike passes, 187. 

Cordero, Governor Antonio, confines murderer, 205- 
206; meets Pike, 209; entertains, 210; character- 
ized, 212-16. 

Corpus Christi, expedition passes, 2109. 

Coues, Elliott, edits Pike’s narrative, xxi. 

D’AtmaAnsa, Capt. Anthony, accompanies Pike to Chi- 
huahua, 141; views on public affairs, 145; farewell 
to Americans, 160; fight with Apache Indians, 163. 

Davenport, , expedition reaches settlement of, 
220. 

DeCroix, Monsieur , lays out route, 193. 

Dog, Lieut. Pike’s, lost, 13; last one, killed, 60. 

Door of the Prison River, Pike reaches, 190. 
Dougherty, Thomas, feet frozen, 104; left in moun- 
tains, 104-105; fears abandonment, 117-18. 

Dunbar, , explores Washita region, 144. 

EcHARARRIA, Lieut. Juan, escorts Americans, 216-17. 

Ellicott, Andrew, surveys Florida boundary, 171; 
career sketched, 172. 

Encina, Pike reaches hacienda of, 200. 

FANDANGO, danced by Mexicans, 129; Americans en- 
tertained by, 160; Pike attends, 178. 

Faulk, , Dutch settler’s family, 224. 

Ferara, Captain de, Pike visits, 108. 

Fernandez, Don Bartholemew, Pike meets, 121. 

Fero, David, career sketched, 176; appeal to Pike, 176- 
77; gift to, 182. 

Fisher, Henry M., career sketched, 13. 

Flag, Pawnee exchange Spanish for U. S., 47-48. 


23% 


“Inder 


Florida, Pike reaches, 196-97. 

Fort Belle Fontaine, history sketched, 3. 

Fort Carondelet, established, 24. 

Fort Elisiaira, expedition passes, 166-68. 

Frank, Pawnee Indian, elopes with wife of Osage chief, 
49. 

Freeman, , exploration of, 222; welcomes Pike, 225. 

French, traders on Osage River, 10; at Pawnee village, 
51; camp of, 23; settlement on Osage River, 23-24. 

Friar Christopher, mountain, expedition passes, 164-65. 

GarctiA, Don Francisco, entertains Americans, 166. 

Gasconade River, expedition passes, 8-10. 

Grand Osage Indians, send war party against Americans, 
21. See also Osage and Little Osage Indians. 

Grand River, expedition passes, 20. 

Grape Creek, expedition reaches, ror. 

Gravel River, expedition passes, »16. 

Great Britain, treaty with United States, 178. 

Griffith, , American deserter, encounter with 
Pike, 200-201. 

Guadalupe River, expedition passes, 217. 

Guajuquilla (Guaxequillo), Pike reaches, 188. 

Guerra, Father Ambrosio, entertains Pike, 150-52. 

Guloo, Don Hyman, movements of, 188, 196; Pike 
bids farewell, 199. 

Guodiana, Lieutenant 
farewell to, 223. 

HARRISON, Symmes, son-in-law of Pike, xx. 

Henry, George, joins Pike’s expedition, 4, 6; lost, 15. 

Herrara, Captain , hospitality to Americans, 220-21. 

Herrara, Governor Simon de, meets Pike, 209; charac- 
terized, 213-16; prevents war with U. S., 215; 
camp of, 223. 

Horse Mountain, expedition passes, 164. 

Horses, lost, 33; Pike procures, 30, 51; stolen, 31; as 
presents, 45-46; magpies attack, 80; exhausted, 
94-95; wild, expedition encounters, 63, 65-66; ex- 
hausted, 72; Spanish soldiers pursue, 128; expedi- 
tion encounters, 207-208, 210. 


, escort to Pike, 222; 


232 


Inder 


INDIANS, mourning cries, 9-10; necessity of firmness 
with, 19-20; affection of, 21; steal horses, 32; 
desert expedition, 34; encounter with, 73-76; 
Spaniards humble, 167. See also the several Indian 
tribes. 

Iskatappe, Pawnee chief, overtakes expedition, 53. 

Jackson, Corporal , sent on detached service, 
114. 

Jefferson, Thomas, interest in western exploration, 
xli—xili. 

Jefferson Barracks, successor of Fort Belle Fontaine, 3. 

Johnson, , American settler in Mexico, 222-23. 

Jornada del Muerto, expedition traverses, 164-65. 

Kansas Indians, visit Pike at Pawnee village, 46; 
council with, 47. 

Kansas River, expedition reaches tributary, 39; leaves 
waters of, 57. 

Kaskaskia, Pike commands, 133-34. 

Keres Indians, expedition encounters, 147. 

Kinnerman, Henry, deserts, 8. 

LABELLE Roche, expedition camps near, 16. 

LaCharette, see Charette. 

Lalande, Baptiste, as spy, 131-33; Story of, 133; claim 
of Dr. Robinson against, 156. 

Larme, Baptiste, fur trade employee, 27. 

L’eau Chaud, see Aqua Caliente. 

Lewis, Capt. "Meriwether, news of return of, 51. 

Lipan (Lee Panes) Indians, Pike passes settlement, 208. 

Little Osage Indians, anger of chief, 12° desert expe- 
dition, 13; war with Kansas, 21. See also Osage 
Indians. 

Little Osage River, expedition ascends, 24; reaches 
forts, 35. 

Liza, Manuel de, career sketched, 5; trading establish- 
ment reached, 25; trading activities, 27. 

Lorimier, Louis, career sketched, 221. 

Lorimier’s Station, destroyed, 221. 

Louisiana Territory, creation of, 27. 

McGurre, Father , attends reception, 209; 
career sketched, 211. 


233 


Jnder 


Magdalen Mountains, expedition passes, 162. 

Magpies, attack horses, 80. 

Malgares, Lieut. Don Faciendo, characterized, 157, 
159; reception of Lieut. Pike, 159; mode of life, 
161; illness, 162; fights with Apaches, 163; popu- 
larity, 167; fear of superiors, 170; wife, 174; escorts 
Pike from Chihuahua, 185; leaves Pike, 188-89; 
sister-in-law, 209; courtesy acknowledged, 223. 

Many (Maney), Captain James B., pursues murderer, 


205. 

Mapimi (Maupeme), Pike reaches, ror. 

Marchon, Capt. Eugene, member of Pike’s escort, 217. 

Mast, of Pike’s boat, abandoned, 15. 

Mayner, Lieut.-Col. Alberto, father-in-law of Lieut. 
Malgares, 174; entertains Pike, 175, 177, 170. 

Medicine, state of science, in New Spain, 174. 

Meek, Sergeant Wm. E., sent on detached service, 118- 


IQ. 

Melcher, Don , Pike reaches hacienda of, 199; 
thirst for information, 199-201. 

Menaugh, , left to guard stores, 109; rejoins 
Pike, 117. 

Mexico City, road to, 192-93. 

Millada River, see Sabinas River. 

Miller, ‘lost, 12;in journey to Pike’s Peak, Spat 

Mine River, expedition camps at, 23. 

Mississippi River, Pike’s exploration of, xiv. 

Monclova (Montelovez), as objective of Pike, 190; 
residence of Governor Cordero, 213. 

Morrison, James, early settler of St. Charles, 4. 

Morrison, William, career sketched, 133. 

Mountain of the Dead, expedition passes, 164. 

NATCHITOCHES, objective of Pike, 116; expedition 
reaches, 225. 

Neosho (White, Arkansas) River, expedition reaches 
headwaters, 35; forks, 36, 38; leaves, 37. 

Netches (Natchez) River, expedition crosses, 220. 

Niangua (Youngar) River, expedition passes, 17. 

Nolan, Philip, story of, 139; gun, 176. 

Noonan Mountain, Pike ascends, 97. 


234 


Jnoexr 


Oco Mali a Ukap, spring, 168. 

Oil Creek, expedition reaches, 84. 

Ojo Caliente, see Aqua Caliente. 

Old Man’s Rapids, expedition passes, 17. 

Osage Indians, captives restored, xiv, 3; reunion, 22; 
expedition visits villages, 24-32; council with, 28; 
jealousy of chiefs, 28-29; medicine dance, 31; 
accompany expedition, 32, 52; plan to desert, 41-42; 
reception at Pawnee village, 45; council with 
Kansas, 47; plunder Trainer, 203-204. See also 
Little Osage Indians. 

Osage River, French traders on, 10; expedition reaches, 
11; passes Forks, 23. 

PARRAS, expedition reaches, 195. 

Passo del Norte, expedition passes, 166. 

Pattos, Pike reaches, 196; described, 197. 

Pawnee Indians, peace with Osage, xiv; captives re- 
stored, 3; accompany expedition, 32; chief meets, 
43; village visited, 44-52; reception of Osage, 45; 
hospitalities exchanged, 46; council with, 47-48; 
hostility to Pike’s advance, 49-52; dispute over 
theft, 53-54; as hunters, 54; war party encoun- 
tered, 73-70. 

Pelaya (Pelia), expedition reaches, 190. 

Pike, Zebulon M., explorations of, xili-xvili; career 
sketched, xviii-xx; editions of narrative, xx—xxil; 
adventure with rattlesnake, 16, 62; wins ” shooting 
match, 18; illness, 19, 134; enforces discipline, 19- 
20, 106-108; astronomical observations, 29-31, 
47, 62, 77, 89, 100; gives presents to Osage Indians, 
31; holds council with Indians, 47-48; defies chief, 
49-52; waylays Indians, 76; attempts to visit Pike’s 
Peak, 76-79; calculates height of, 81-82; builds 
fortified camp, 77, 111; ascends Cheyenne Moun- 
tain, 78; in Royal Gorge, 82, 96; seeks Red River, 
89-91, 99, 109-10; geographical discoveries, 973 
receives Spanish soldiers, 121-22; visits Sante Fe, 
136-44; papers confiscated, 140-41, 172, 170; 
ordered to Chihuahua, 141; scanty equipment of 
party, 143; rescues young woman, 163-64; inter- 


235 


“a nbder 


view with Governor Salcedo, 171-73, 181-82; de- 
fies, 179-81; leaves Chihuahua, 185; subterfuge 
concerning notes, 186-88; farewell to Lieut. 
Malgares, 188-89; gives ball, 191, 194; encounters 
American deserter, 188-89; compass stolen, 206. 

Pike’s Peak, objective of Pike, 76-79; height cal- 
culated, 81-82. 

Pine Creek, mast procured, 15. 

Platte River, supposed discovery of source, 97. 

Pojoaque, expedition visits, 136. 

- Potawatomi Indians, surrender captives, 3; war route 
of, 9; wage war against Osage Indians, 30. 

Pottoe River, expedition passes, 17. 

Prado, Father Joseph, reception of Lieut. Pike, 166. 

Pratt, , American deserter, 199. 

Presidio Rio Grande, Captain Barelo stationed at, 202. 

Priests, hospitality to Pike, 131, 134; scientific interests, 
134-35; conduct of, at Santa Cruz, 135-36. 

Purgatory River, expedition passes, 71. 

RAMSAY, , report concerning Indians, 4. 

Rattlesnakes, Pike’s adventure with, 16, 62. 

Red River, headwaters sought, 87; supposed discovery, 
88-91, 109-10; Spaniards offer to escort Pike to, 
122; expedition reaches, 218. 

Republican River, expedition reaches tributary, 42-43. 

Rey, Don Pedro Roderique, reception of Lieut. Pike, 
166 

Rio Chama River, expedition reaches, 131. 

Rio Conejos River, Pike builds fortified camp on, 111; 
ascends, 127. 

Rio Florido River, Pike ascends, 187. 

Rio Grande River, valley reached, 109-10; identity of, 
learned, 122; expedition crosses, 153, 207; bridge 
described, 148. 

Rio Nasas (Brasses) River, Pike reaches, 193. 

Robinson, Dr. John Hamilton, career sketched, 5; 
visits Pawnee village, 38, 41, 43; dirk stolen, 53- 
54; on Pike’s Peak excursion, 76—79; illness, 98; 
departure for Santa Fe, 112; characterized, 113; 
reaches Sante Fe, 116; Governor Allencaster 


236 


Inder 


notices, 137-38; reunion with Pike, 153; narrative 
of adventures, 154-58; paroled, 160-61; interview 
with Governor Salcedo, 173. 

Rocky Mountains, expedition gains first sight of, 70; 
as boundary, 71. 

Rodriguez, Capt. , arrest of, 177. 

Royal Gorge, Pike visits, 82, 96. 

Rubi, Father, entertains Pike, 148-50. 

SABINAS (Millada) River, Pike reaches, 201. 

Sabine River, expedition crosses, 202, 223; dispute with 
Spain over boundary, 215-16. 

Sabinez, expedition passes, 162. 

Saint Antonio, road to, 192-93; expedition reaches, 209. 

Saint Antonio, Ranche de, Pike reaches, 193-94. 

St. Charles, boundary of, 4. 

St. Clair, Gen. Arthur, defeat of, 67. 

St. Domingo, expedition reaches, 146-47. 

St. Fernandez, Dr. Robinson reaches, 157. 

St. John’s, expedition visits, 131-34; described, 135. 

Saint Joseph, mission, visited, 209. 

St. Lorenzo, hacienda of, Pike reaches, 195. 

Saint Mark, expedition reaches, 217. 

St. Paul, expedition reaches, 186. 

St. Thomas, expedition passes, 161. 

Salcedo, General , informed of approach of 
Americans, 170; interview with Pike, 171-73, 
181-82; orders of, concerning Pike, 183, 186, 190- 
91; ignored, 196; asks Pike to examine immigrant, 
202. 

Saline River, expedition passes, 16, 40. 

Saltelo, Don Ignatio, Pike meets, 121. 

Sandia (Zandia, St. Dies), expedition reaches, 150. 

San Felipe, expedition visits, 148. 

Sangre de Cristo (White) Mountains, expedition sights, 
IOI; Crosses, 109. 

San Miguel, Marquis de, estate of, 193, 196-98. 

Sans Oreille, anger of Big Soldier at, 11-12; reports 
movements of Sparks, 18; speech, 22; accompa- 
nies expedition, 32; deserts, 34. 

Santa Cruz, expedition visits, 135. 


237 


Inder 


Santa Fe, Pike visits, 122-24, 136-44; described, 136-37. 

Saugrain, Dr. Antoine, Dr. Robinson marries sister-in- 
law, 5. 

Sea, , retired soldier, 224. 

Shepherd River, expedition passes, 8. 

Shooting match, Pike’s men hold, 18, 60. 

Sibilleta, expedition passes, 162; rendezvous of trading 
caravan, 163. 

Smith, Lieut. , welcomes Pike, 225. 

Smith, Patrick, guards baggage, 100. 

Smoky Hill River, expedition reaches, 39, 57. 

Smuggling, across border, 222-23. 

Solomon River, expedition camps on, 54. 

South Arkansas River, expedition reaches, 92. 

South Platte River, expedition reaches headwaters, 85. 

Spain, relations with United States, sketched, xi—xil; 
cedes Louisiana, xii. 

Spaniards, expedition of, to Pawnee village, 43-47; 
route followed, 53, 56, 58, 61, 63, 64, 68, 70, 71, 73, 
80, 82-85; number calculated, 53, 68; Pike meets, 
115-17, 120-21; object of expedition to Pawnee, 
128; hospitality to Americans, 130-31, 146, 148- 
52, 158, 160, 166, 175, 209-10, 221; funeral of 
officer, 2I0. 

Sparks, John, as hunter, 17-18, 20; left at Pawnee vil- 
lage, 52-53; illness, 57; feet frozen, 104; left in 
mountains, 104-105; fears abandonment, 117-18. 

Sparks, Major , leads exploring expedition, 222. 

Strong, Capt. , welcomes Pike, 225. 

TESEQUE, expedition visits, 136. 

Tetau Indians, wars with Pawnee, 43, 74; with Span- 
iards, 130; camps of, 69, 80; capture white chil- 


Thorp, , retired soldier, 224. 

Tonkawa (Tancard) Indians, expedition reaches settle- 
ment of, 218. 

Toronto, capture of, xix—xx. 

Tousac, expedition reaches, 158. 

Trainer, , murderer, story of, 202-206. 

Trinity River, expedition crosses, 219. 


238 


Juder 


Turkey Island, expedition passes, 21. 

Tutasuggy (the Wind), Chief of Little Osage, 12; repri- 
manded, 28-29; Pike visits, 30. 

UGARTE, Captain , marries Lieut. Malgares’ 
sister-in-law, 209. 

United States, relations with Spain, sketched, xi—xii; 
treaty with Great Britain, 178. 

Upper Gravel River, expedition passes, 17. 

Vattots, Don Pedro, entertains Pike, 177, 179. 

Vallois, Sefiora Marguerite, entertains Americans, 175. 

Vasquez, A. F., dzt Baronet, see Baroney. 

Verdigris (Verdegris) River, expedition reaches head- 
waters, 37. 

Vermillion River, expedition passes, 20. 

Viana, Don Francis, Spanish official, characterized, 222. 

Villamil, Don Bernardo, Pike meets, 174; entertained 
by, 177, 178, 179. 

WALKER, Lieut. , agent of Spanish government, 
171; houses Lieut. Pike, 173; suspected as informer, 
181, 185; conduct of, 183-85. 

Warm Springs, expedition passes, 169. See also Aqua 
Caliente. 

Washita (Ouchata) region, explored, 144. 

White Hair, see Cheveux Blanche. 

White River, see Neosho River. 

White Rock Creek, expedition camps on, 44. 

Wilkinson, General James, réle in Pike’s explorations, 
discussed, xiii—xvii. 

Wilkinson, Lieut. James B., son of General Wilkinson, 
5; illness, 41-42; party lost, 58-59; descends 
Arkansas, 62-63. 

Wind, The, see Tutasuggy. 

Wollstoncraft, Capt. Charles, welcomes Pike, 225. 

XAXALES, expedition passes, 162. 

YELLOWSTONE (Pierre Jaun) River, supposed dis- 
covery of source, 97. 

Youngar River, see Niangua River. 

ZERBIN, Dr. , attends reception, 209; career 
sketched, 211-12. 

Zuloaga, Don Manuel, meets Pike, 174; entertains, 179. 


239 


oh 


Will 


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